Gt4788
I would have it done just to be safe. Not just give the ls9 head gasket and the arp hardwear a shot. Just to see when you push water. If you push it hard... and you're saying you are building this for the track mostly. Then you will push it hard enough to push water. So save yourself the time and trouble, get it done.
As far as doing this mod with the roating assembly already installed. Is the heads bolted to the block? Take it to some place that has experience with this. It is my understanding that they bolt the heads on to the block. Remove one stud at a time and drill then retread, clean and replace bolt. Until completed. Then it gets cleaned free of all the shavings. Again this is what I was told.
I am using Cometic MLS head gasket ls 4.130" x .040 and if you have the 1/2" mod you have to do the same to the head gasket.
thanks for guessing though
IAT delta and backpressure would really tell us if we were out of turbine, but with out knowing what those two numbers are, we can only speculate.
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If you look at garrets site the GT55 with the 1.00 ar flows the same # per hr as the 4788 with the 1.39ar. Thats why I said he should use the bigger housing. If you are clipping the wheel then you're compairing apples to oranges
GT5088 is something $100 more GT4788
Go bigger turbine before running a clipped wheel imo. It helps but Its not all about turbine flow, turbine leverage will make a big difference too.
Try to buy a turbo with an A/R that is in the middle of the range so that you can tailor it to your combo after it is running if need be. buying the smallest wheel and largest A/R leaves you no where to go if you need more flow and vice versa.
If not limited to an 88mm for some class rules, I'd definitely get into a 91mm with those cubes.


