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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 12:36 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by konceptracin
I talked with AES and
They didn't think the 1/2 studs
Were worth doing in my set
Up they suggest giving the ls9 head gasket and the arp hardwear a shot!
What all bore sizes will the LS9 gaskets work on?
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 12:57 PM
  #62  
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4.100 is the bore size on the gasket so I would guess anything under that .... Could be wrong?!?!?!
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 02:56 PM
  #63  
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If the highest that you will be running is 20lbs the you wouldn't "need" to go with the 1/2" mod. But if you think that you might take it up pass 20psi. I would have it done. You never know what the future holds. If you called AES then you probably spoke to Fraser. He probably told you about the 1/2" process. All it is, they take your block and heads and drill the main head stud holes out to us a 1/2" bolt. Bigger bolt bigger threads more holding strength to keep the heads from lifting and pushing water.

I would have it done just to be safe. Not just give the ls9 head gasket and the arp hardwear a shot. Just to see when you push water. If you push it hard... and you're saying you are building this for the track mostly. Then you will push it hard enough to push water. So save yourself the time and trouble, get it done.

As far as doing this mod with the roating assembly already installed. Is the heads bolted to the block? Take it to some place that has experience with this. It is my understanding that they bolt the heads on to the block. Remove one stud at a time and drill then retread, clean and replace bolt. Until completed. Then it gets cleaned free of all the shavings. Again this is what I was told.

I am using Cometic MLS head gasket ls 4.130" x .040 and if you have the 1/2" mod you have to do the same to the head gasket.
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 05:46 PM
  #64  
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I was going to do it but my motor is already together and AES said they would need to pull it back apart... The roating assembly n heads so i will hold off on this ... We talked about doing a lsx block in the near future !!!! I like to gamble...lol everyone watch Alabama fuxk up lsu tonight!!! Hahha
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 06:04 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by konceptracin
Alabama fuxk up lsu tonight!!! Hahha
Tide aint got no Honey Badger!
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 07:04 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by bad6as
800 on 15 lbs and 900 on 20lbs that turbine is done. 5 psi boost for 100 wheel. The 408 is too much motor for a .96 ar 92mm turbine of the gt4788 to get its full potential.
it only picked up that much b/c timing on 15lbs was 16* with 93oct. When it was on 20lbs it had 114oct and timing was only 13*, which is nothing.

thanks for guessing though
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Louis
Thats 20 hp/lb of boost, which is on the other side of the map, yes, but still efficient to some degree. On most apps, we like to see 25hp/lb of boost when we are in the meat of the compressor map.

IAT delta and backpressure would really tell us if we were out of turbine, but with out knowing what those two numbers are, we can only speculate.
i'm sure with more timing it would make 25lbs. but you're right. only way to know is to look at IAT's and backpressure. which i haven't.
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 07:24 PM
  #68  
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Bama all day .... Well see what happens .... Lol it's sad that the number 2 team needs to give points to the number "1" team!!!!



Originally Posted by WS6HUMMER
Tide aint got no Honey Badger!
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 07:53 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by TINKRD
it only picked up that much b/c timing on 15lbs was 16* with 93oct. When it was on 20lbs it had 114oct and timing was only 13*, which is nothing.

thanks for guessing though
Originally Posted by TINKRD
i'm sure with more timing it would make 25lbs. but you're right. only way to know is to look at IAT's and backpressure. which i haven't.
if you ran 16* on 20lbs vs 13* how much whp do you think that is? but if the turbine isnt done its close
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 08:52 PM
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here is my opinion. a 88mm is to small for a 408.. so putting the biggest ex housing on is not going to make it lag much more then any other one. just don't make the Y pipe to big 2 1/4" Y pipe is enough to make up to 2000 hp.and that GT47 would make more power and run better on a regular 6.0 liter
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by bad6as
if you ran 16* on 20lbs vs 13* how much whp do you think that is? but if the turbine isnt done its close
I'll post up when it's tuned. the car shows no signs of running out of steam, period.
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by TINKRD
I'll post up when it's tuned. the car shows no signs of running out of steam, period.
I agree with you. It has more in it to give and if you put a good set of heads on it. Ahh yeah.
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by the big kahuna
here is my opinion. a 88mm is to small for a 408.. so putting the biggest ex housing on is not going to make it lag much more then any other one. just don't make the Y pipe to big 2 1/4" Y pipe is enough to make up to 2000 hp.and that GT47 would make more power and run better on a regular 6.0 liter
3in crossover and rolling into throttle it hits full boost in about 600rpms. perfect amount of lag. dead hooks from a 50 roll on full tilt.
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 10:44 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by craig382ci
I agree with you. It has more in it to give and if you put a good set of heads on it. Ahh yeah.
these heads have really surprised me. thinking of throwing on some l92's but then again. if it ain't broke, dont fix it
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 11:18 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by koolrayz
This is what I ran on my first setup a 410 with a GT5591 and the 1.00 ar.
If you look at garrets site the GT55 with the 1.00 ar flows the same # per hr as the 4788 with the 1.39ar. Thats why I said he should use the bigger housing. If you are clipping the wheel then you're compairing apples to oranges
You talking about exhaust flow of the Gt47 turbine vs the GT55 and not the compressor side, right?

Originally Posted by craig382ci
Hey Los its been awhile since I've got to talk to you! Did you look at the link I put up on TINKERD dyno? He don't hit full boost until 4500RPM's and that's with a A/R .96 on the GT4788 408ci. How will the GT55 compare in your opinion on it coming into/hitting full boost at? I am interest to know what you think. You have been very helpful in the past for me. You and Josh@KY-Turbo is about the only 2 on here that I go too for opinions/advice.
Couple of things here. Unless the dyno is loaded properly, you'll have more lag on the dyno. When the turbo is at full boost has alot to do with the converter choice unless he is in a M6 car.

Originally Posted by WS6HUMMER
I was all set on a GT5588 turbo until a friend of mine got one (Exile), its awesome on the track but very extreme. On the street the thing takes forever to spool & the new converter to make the turbo work right slips so much that the trans temps go sky high when you try to drive it on the street. He talked me out of a GT55 & into the GT4788. FWIW
Define sky high. I just had my converter tightened. It used to stall around 4800-5000 with the TH350. When I switched to the glide, my logs were showing it flashing to 5800 on the launch. Even then, my FTI converter did not build excessive heat when street driven in daytime stop and go traffic. At part throttle (light load) the FTI's are very tight. Not sure about others but I guess I'm spoiled. I had him tighten it up 1K RPM and it feels like he got it close. I went to the track last Friday night but I was unable to verify as I ripped all the studs out of my passenger rear axle. Got it all fixed up so I hope to have some info this Friday night.

Originally Posted by konceptracin
I have a aem and I plan on getting there boost solenoid.... The bigger the turbo gets from the gt4788 I worrie about pushing water! So I'm not sure what to do
I highly recommend that you get a controller that works with CO2. I think it help to get up into boost much faster.

Originally Posted by Professor_speed
High back pressure is going to make it push water easier.

GT5088 is something $100 more GT4788

Go bigger turbine before running a clipped wheel imo. It helps but Its not all about turbine flow, turbine leverage will make a big difference too.

Try to buy a turbo with an A/R that is in the middle of the range so that you can tailor it to your combo after it is running if need be. buying the smallest wheel and largest A/R leaves you no where to go if you need more flow and vice versa.
I'm on board with this line of thinking.^

If not limited to an 88mm for some class rules, I'd definitely get into a 91mm with those cubes.
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 11:31 PM
  #76  
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Beast!!! Rippin axle studs out!!!!!
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 11:32 PM
  #77  
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21 - 0 .......
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 11:34 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by konceptracin
21 - 0 .......
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by konceptracin
21 - 0 .......
The Tide put on a clinic out there. Wow.
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 98Z28CobraKiller
The Tide put on a clinic out there. Wow.
O yeah no joke! I won some of my money back, I had to give lsu 2 1/2 and I was stressing about that! And they came up with ZERO!!!!!
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