tta656

iTrader: (5)

So i was understanding it correctly,tht can will work, but using one with out a breather will pull more vac..

stealth355tpi

Conan - no chance of oil going into the blower? I know the catch can is to catch the oil but what if? Just asking because I'm wrapping up my d1sc install and have a sealed can and oil cap breather to hook up.

conan

iTrader: (5)

Yes, a vented catch can plumbed to the blower would just pull air from the little filter on the can - path of least resistance. The rocker cover would just push out there own pressure.

I wouldn't say NO chance but it would take care of anything major. I'm going to switch to this setup this summer and see what happens. I have the port on the D1 f body hat blocked off now. I'll watch the blower hat for oil and go back to the vented can if its pulling more oil than I would like to see.

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

valvecovers to catch can, catch can to pcv valve (1 way check) valve to intake after the tb.

line that used to connect to top of tb when stock is fresh air source, route this end to in front of the blower.. other end of this hose should be hooked to valley cover if you have one to limit oil ingestion

if you are making a lot of power and still want factory pcv operation as above, i have more info available via pm.

stealth355tpi

pcv to intake after tb, won't this see boost too?

CAMSTER

iTrader: (10)

Hello guys and girls, the best catch can out there is probably 10 to 15 % efficient, and if you connect the vacuum to the inlet of your turbo or super charger, you will suck the other 85 to 90% of the oil in to your blower and the rest of the intake track, and in to the cylinders, is going to happen, the other option in to ran free air, which will make the car smell like a oil waste dump, so whats the solution? A dry catch can. The mama of any one who makes the claim that you heard of this before, i do make absolute claim that this is a Camster invention, therefore it should be called here and after the "Camster catch can". I came up with this solution with my previous personal project several years back, and i think is worthy of making is way into the best rides out there, and i else know is need it, so i will not hold this secret any more.

The project is simple, my original dry 100% effective catch can where actually made of two upside down oil plastic quarts, however my present set is a bit mare refined, and can be checked out in 'my new N-A project' in the gen 4 internal engine section in this forum, and for some reason no one has noticed them at all, but here is, a simple solution i found.....

i used a 2 1/2 inch alum pipe and cut it to my desire length, about 8" long, made 2 round covers to cup it off with, i used two cans for my AP but one central piece will work too. the top cover will have a 3/8 diam pipe welded in the center, for a small diam filter in case of boost, in my case at present time i have it connected to the intake, cause is a N-A project, the bottom cover will have a -10 male bung welded to it, and there will be another -10 male bung welded to the side of the can 1/2 inch from the bottom, the bottom bung will be connected directly to the oil pan just below the rail, where it won't interfere with the motor mounts, starter and other accessories, via another -10 male bung, the interior of the can will have a tile setter type sponge, to separate the oily fumes from its oil and in case of boost, it Will have a final filter at top wish will always stay clean and dry, OK so what happens with the side bung? it will connect to the valve cover, via another -10 male bung, and it doesn't mater if oil comes in from it, the oil will drain back to the oil pan via the button bung connected hose, i use -10 nylon light braided blue dots Earl hose for this purpose. I welded the bottom cover so there won't be any leaks, the top cover will only be tack welded after the sponge was inserted, so it won't burn. Now you can connect this to your blower or turbo inlet filter area without socking oil into your engine if you want, instead of the filter on top of the can, and your intake track will remain dry. I used a 1/8 by 1/2 flat bar welded across 1/2 inch from the bottom inside the can to keep the sponge from the bottom to aid, the oil return.. If you plan to connect to your blower inlet, on top instead of the 1/2 inch pipe, weld a -6 90 degrees male bung and another -6 male bung to your inlet filter track area.
I welded an angle behind the outlet inside the oil pan to keep the oil from splashing directly in to the hose.
OK so a big plus, with this system is, will not allow the crank case to be pressurized, so now you don't need a vacuum pump, and they should be worth in the neighborhood of 30 whp and cleaner spark plugs,
and no smoke out the tail pipe.
If anyone plan to criticize this invention you better have a better solution, and get it out the bag, i do know improvements in the filtering element can be made, but it worked for me.
For those of you who think, this is a lot of bla bla bla, is because you don't have a driver's licence.....

Sarg

iTrader: (6)

Somehow with all of that I am failing to get a good mental picture...have a diagram?

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

yes the hose will see boost all the way up till you get to the pcv valve / check valve where it will allow vacuum only.

CAMSTER

iTrader: (10)

Only problem, is a big one, you will need the engine to disperse the blow-by gasses at wide open throttle where there's lots more of them present, and at which time, the system will be shot down. Your system is cleaver, and nothing personal, I'm just trying to help..

CAMSTER

iTrader: (10)

Go over the system carefully, is very simple.
Just picture a catch can with two -10 hoses, one 1/2 inch from the bottom the other at the bottom, and at top a 90 degrees -6 male bung, coming off the center, so you could screw in, an an hose from it, and hook that to your inlet filter area of your favorite pump.
The side connection goes to the valve cover,
the bottom to the oil pan. This system will provide 4 -10 = to a 2" pipe bringing out the gasses/blow-by out of your engine four corners at all times, no way to ever experience crankcase positive pressure, in fact when connected to vacuum as specified, will provide the must vacuum at wide open throttle, and never a drop of oil, in your intake track.

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

camster please post images of your marvelous invention

Sarg

iTrader: (6)

How are you getting 4 -10 out of a single -10 from both valve covers and one to the oil pan? I count 2 -10 lines going to the can. This basically sounds like a Moroso air oil seperator with a sponge and one less fitting.

CAMSTER

iTrader: (10)

Moroso can drool .
You have two -10 lines from each of the two catch cans, one to the v cover and the other to the oil pan, that's two -10 to the oil pan and two -10 to the v covers, how many is that? Now each -10 = 1/2 inch ID x 4 = 2"...
Another beauty of this system is, you naver have to empty the cans, plus if you have to ran a oil return line, just hook it up to the bottom of you choice can via another a-n fitting for an easy professional finish, man do i really need to say more, i really do hope you enjoy this stuff...

Sarg

iTrader: (6)

Gotcha, didn't realize you were running a can per side.

CAMSTER

iTrader: (10)

My new N/A project.... (Update! Dyno results and engine bay pic pg3) ( 1 2 3 4 5 ... Last Page)
Go see the pix at gen 4 internal engine section, i don't know how to get it where you just click and pups up..

nodrok

I havent had any oil in my catch can from having my catch can line hooked up pre turbo. But may i will over time. Ill keep an eye on it.

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

ok anyways...

nodrok where is the other end of your can hooked to? as i have stated before there is little to no vacuum at the pre-filter area during normal driving.. and if you have a good air filter, there is not very much ALL the time.

you may not be catching anything because there may not be any airflow

6t7gto

iTrader: (1)

Camster is this the pic?
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c1..._/IMG_1419.jpg

CAMSTER

iTrader: (10)

There should be hundreds of cubic feet of air going in there, and the more you press the gas pedal the more flow as you need it, but the lines should be hooked up before the filter, and if you like to increase the flow from your c cans, angle the tubing or hose at 45 degrees tours your turbo, the cars with supercharger will see a lot more air flow, in the intake area, even more than necessary, for those boosting over 15 pounds. But remember the crank case smell is going to be burned, so you don't have to smell it, and that's a big plus, as in the case of venting to free air. Remember the crank case smell is the only reason to go to the intake track, with the crank case ventilation, and no oil to your intake track, with this system, so you have a car that smells like a car, not like an oil waste dump, cause no oil, is getting pass these cans.

CAMSTER

iTrader: (10)

Thanks man, i have since connected the cans to my intake, so it looks a Lil different now, will post some pix off a can out of the car for you soon, so you can appreciate how simple this are, i will post the size to, they don't need to be big at all, another advantage of the design.