Forced Induction Superchargers | Turbochargers | Intercoolers

Why #7?

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Old 03-30-2012, 01:14 PM
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Of course if you have 98-00 fbody shave down the intake. But with a fast intake those lines wont fit. And I am not grinding on the bottom of a fast haha.
Old 03-30-2012, 05:40 PM
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Can anyone post a pic of the kup vent tube link?
Old 03-30-2012, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by LS14EVR
Glad I brought this up. Great discussion going on here. Looks like if I do any more mods, I'll be venting the rear of my 02.
Likewise -- I'm also quite glad you brought this up.

There isn't a ton of info on the board about this.....almost like a secret society of those who had to figure out how to fix the issues with "unlucky" #7.

It amazes me that this issue is such a problem that guys with forged internals are having the same problems. I would be so pissed if I put the money into a forged bottom end and then ran into these problems.

I'm not exactly handy or creative with figuring out how to fix this myself, so I went with the "I'm willing to spend $200 for the kit if it will fix the problem" method.
Old 03-31-2012, 12:38 AM
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Ya melting 2 forged motors sucks *****. I now run a very cold plug, vent tubes, have the highest flowing injector on cyl 7, got a way more experienced tuner (Jim at speed inc) and im done with pump gas at the track. Vp 109 for me on high boost. If I blow up with all this I was just not meant to go fast.
Old 03-31-2012, 12:56 AM
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I was reading about this a few weeks back on another board. Very informative thread.
Old 03-31-2012, 01:37 AM
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I had a coolant crossover on the rear of my LS1 block....and i can tell you from my experience (and i had an AFR gauge connected)...that the #7 pistons takes an asslicking of airflow, and will run hotter than the other cylinders with an LS1/LS6 style intake manifold. Edelbrock has some manifold options, although i havent tested as i've been down for almost 3 years with different setups.

Best of luck with your setup...the stock style intake manifolds are garbage for forced induction as the airflow from our boosted systems will find the farthest cylinder in which to increase flow to and cause havoc on that cylinder...it's the nature of a front mounted throttle body and intake. A top and center mounted intake manifold would do away with some of our problems....
Old 03-31-2012, 05:52 AM
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Originally Posted by fstr n u




I had a coolant crossover on the rear of my LS1 block....and i can tell you from my experience (and i had an AFR gauge connected)...that the #7 pistons takes an asslicking of airflow, and will run hotter than the other cylinders with an LS1/LS6 style intake manifold. Edelbrock has some manifold options, although i havent tested as i've been down for almost 3 years with different setups.

Best of luck with your setup...the stock style intake manifolds are garbage for forced induction as the airflow from our boosted systems will find the farthest cylinder in which to increase flow to and cause havoc on that cylinder...it's the nature of a front mounted throttle body and intake. A top and center mounted intake manifold would do away with some of our problems....
Is that your wall of fame/shame? I've got a couple of those items, like a split wheel that is now my hose reel. That piston looks familiar as well...




It was mentioned to me that part of the issue could be the fact that a lot of the aftermarket heads block off the coolant flow to the bottom of the #7 combustion chamber. I'm planning on addressing that issue before the motor goes back together.
Old 03-31-2012, 09:48 PM
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fstr N U, are you saying that even with the rear ports vented that you still had the issue with #7?

At what point are you guys having this issue with the #7 cylinder? I'm getting my car tuned on e85 and hoping that going that route will help prolong the life of the motor given it's cooler properties and knock resistance. I also plan on venting the rears.
Old 04-01-2012, 12:21 AM
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You can only push a stock motor so far, or stock bottom end.....even with meth or a "conservative tune" or a rich afr....stock is as stock does......
Old 04-01-2012, 12:36 AM
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Bad tune wont help thats for sure. Venting the rear is just helping the problem. Anything to help that cylinder is a positive.
Old 04-01-2012, 12:43 PM
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I was just about to make a thread like this, my question is I have a Super Victor for my car do I run the 99 line or am I better off buyin the $200 kit?
Old 04-01-2012, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by RacerXLs1
I was just about to make a thread like this, my question is I have a Super Victor for my car do I run the 99 line or am I better off buyin the $200 kit?
You probly be fine with the factory lines. As long as its vented you should be ok.
Old 04-01-2012, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Zmg00camaross
You probly be fine with the factory lines. As long as its vented you should be ok.
Ok thanks
Old 04-02-2012, 09:54 PM
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SO....general thought is that the rear ports need to be vented, and that the style of intake is forcing air to that cylinder. Why does it seem like everyone uses the ls1 "style" like the edelbrock pro flow and the holley then? Wouldn't the vic jr with an elbow or 4150 style tb be better for air distribution?
Old 04-02-2012, 10:05 PM
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The people that believe the theory of the air flow and how the air is forced into the back and it slams into #7 and thats it have no idea on how airflow really works. Its not like a brick flying into the intake. Its like a liquid. As previously mentioned, the dyno tests had the intake manifold turned around. Using the previous theory, that would mean that cyl 2 would be running the leanest, but the test showed that STILL cyls 7 and 8 had the problem. So that theory isnt as conclusive as the coolant flow theory is.
Old 04-02-2012, 11:35 PM
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heres the vented tube i made and it clears my ls2 manifold, nothing fancy but it works

Old 04-02-2012, 11:45 PM
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Good enough! Behind the manifold anyway so not like anyone will see it.
Old 04-03-2012, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by ROCNDAV
Doesn't that place the connection higher than the radiator port?

I thought the radiator port had to be the highest spot?
Everyone has told me this, but its a crock, if that was the case, then none of our heaters would work because the heater core is usually the highest spot
Old 04-04-2012, 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by BAD *** TA WS6
Where does the braided line on the above pictured setup run to off of that steam port distribution block?
I'm also curious about that, does it just connect to a tap in the water pump?
Old 04-04-2012, 07:09 PM
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I have seen them ran into exactly the same spot as the stock hose would go when you run it from the front of the engine. Makes sense right?


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