Too much oil to turbos????
Too much oil to turbos???? I have twins on a 416ci with -3 lines teed to each turbo with a 25psi check valve on each line. The return consists of -8 lines going into a reservoir and a -10 coming out and into an Exa-Pump. I am getting some oil coming out of the exhaust so I either have to much oil going to the turbos or not enough getting out.
I unhooked the oil return line and had the reservoir empty into a plastic container. I attached a rubber line from the pump to the container to check if the pump was working properly and to see how much oil was draining out from the turbos.
I unplugged the pump to see how fast the container would fill then hooked the pump back on and it drains the container pretty fast.
Do you think I need a restrictor?
The turbos are BB Garrett/HTA 3586's.
Here is a video showing how much oil is draining from the turbos.
And showing the smoke coming out the exhaust.
I unhooked the oil return line and had the reservoir empty into a plastic container. I attached a rubber line from the pump to the container to check if the pump was working properly and to see how much oil was draining out from the turbos.
I unplugged the pump to see how fast the container would fill then hooked the pump back on and it drains the container pretty fast.
Do you think I need a restrictor?
The turbos are BB Garrett/HTA 3586's.
Here is a video showing how much oil is draining from the turbos.
And showing the smoke coming out the exhaust.
why need check valve? ditch and just run oil feed lines, and oil return lines with the exa pump.
-3 or -4 AN feed (3/16" or 1/4") is fine. I have a -8 return on mine, they said go to a -10 but I made sure my line was straight and kink free and have yet to have a problem.
what is your peak oil pressure? as long as you are under 85~90psi you shouldn't need a restrictor for the feed line
-3 or -4 AN feed (3/16" or 1/4") is fine. I have a -8 return on mine, they said go to a -10 but I made sure my line was straight and kink free and have yet to have a problem.
what is your peak oil pressure? as long as you are under 85~90psi you shouldn't need a restrictor for the feed line
I changed it so that when you go WOT the canister can fill up a bit giving the oil pump a little time to catch up.
why need check valve? ditch and just run oil feed lines, and oil return lines with the exa pump.
-3 or -4 AN feed (3/16" or 1/4") is fine. I have a -8 return on mine, they said go to a -10 but I made sure my line was straight and kink free and have yet to have a problem.
what is your peak oil pressure? as long as you are under 85~90psi you shouldn't need a restrictor for the feed line
-3 or -4 AN feed (3/16" or 1/4") is fine. I have a -8 return on mine, they said go to a -10 but I made sure my line was straight and kink free and have yet to have a problem.
what is your peak oil pressure? as long as you are under 85~90psi you shouldn't need a restrictor for the feed line
The oil return line starts with a bajo bolt on the bottom of the turbo so it is basically a 90 from the get go. No way to make it go straight down as the car sits way to low for that. Anything other than a 90 would scrape at every driveway.
Oil pressure at idle after it is warmed up is around 50psi and probably close to 80-90psi at WOT. In the morning on initial startup it is also a little more. It has a shimmied LS6 oil pump.
Here is a better video I took of how fast the oil fills the plastic container when the oil pump is turned off. I tell my son to hook the oil pump back up after the oil level is near the top and you can see the pump suck the oil pretty rapidly.
Seems like there is a lot of oil going to the turbos. Is it too much?
I noticed the breather I have on the valve cover was misting a little. I think the crankcase was being pressurized my the oil return pump when is starts sucking air.
I took the oil reservoir/canister out and put in a Y block for now to drive around town. I will hook the can back up and see if it starts smoking again.
So with the canister out is it no longer smoking?
The smoke from the filter is hot oil......I think. Does it do it when its cold? Where is your oil returned to?
Also with oil scavenge pumps, they dont need to have constant oil flowing through them. Its ok to have them suck air in.
You may need restrictors. I know there are statements on the interweb that a turbo needs as much oil as it can get but you can over oil the sucker, especially if its a BB. BB tuebos need less oil the journal. Even journal need restrictors a times. My journal turbos have 0.06 in. restrictors in them. I also got rid of the banjo style return and went with a 90* AN fitting. They are about 1/2 in. lower than the banjo fittings but work much better. Hope this helps. Unfortunately it seems there isnt one solution for every turbo problem. It changes from car to car even if the setup is identical.
The smoke from the filter is hot oil......I think. Does it do it when its cold? Where is your oil returned to?
Also with oil scavenge pumps, they dont need to have constant oil flowing through them. Its ok to have them suck air in.
You may need restrictors. I know there are statements on the interweb that a turbo needs as much oil as it can get but you can over oil the sucker, especially if its a BB. BB tuebos need less oil the journal. Even journal need restrictors a times. My journal turbos have 0.06 in. restrictors in them. I also got rid of the banjo style return and went with a 90* AN fitting. They are about 1/2 in. lower than the banjo fittings but work much better. Hope this helps. Unfortunately it seems there isnt one solution for every turbo problem. It changes from car to car even if the setup is identical.
So with the canister out is it no longer smoking?
The smoke from the filter is hot oil......I think. Does it do it when its cold? Where is your oil returned to?
Also with oil scavenge pumps, they dont need to have constant oil flowing through them. Its ok to have them suck air in.
You may need restrictors. I know there are statements on the interweb that a turbo needs as much oil as it can get but you can over oil the sucker, especially if its a BB. BB tuebos need less oil the journal. Even journal need restrictors a times. My journal turbos have 0.06 in. restrictors in them. I also got rid of the banjo style return and went with a 90* AN fitting. They are about 1/2 in. lower than the banjo fittings but work much better. Hope this helps. Unfortunately it seems there isnt one solution for every turbo problem. It changes from car to car even if the setup is identical.
The smoke from the filter is hot oil......I think. Does it do it when its cold? Where is your oil returned to?
Also with oil scavenge pumps, they dont need to have constant oil flowing through them. Its ok to have them suck air in.
You may need restrictors. I know there are statements on the interweb that a turbo needs as much oil as it can get but you can over oil the sucker, especially if its a BB. BB tuebos need less oil the journal. Even journal need restrictors a times. My journal turbos have 0.06 in. restrictors in them. I also got rid of the banjo style return and went with a 90* AN fitting. They are about 1/2 in. lower than the banjo fittings but work much better. Hope this helps. Unfortunately it seems there isnt one solution for every turbo problem. It changes from car to car even if the setup is identical.
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Originally it was like that with both -8 lines going to a T then one -10 from the T going to the oil pump.
I changed it so that when you go WOT the canister can fill up a bit giving the oil pump a little time to catch up.
The check valves on the feed lines keep the turbos from filling with oil when you shut the car off. There is also a 1 PSI check valve after the oil pump to keep oil from backing up into it when you shut down.
The oil return line starts with a bajo bolt on the bottom of the turbo so it is basically a 90 from the get go. No way to make it go straight down as the car sits way to low for that. Anything other than a 90 would scrape at every driveway.
Oil pressure at idle after it is warmed up is around 50psi and probably close to 80-90psi at WOT. In the morning on initial startup it is also a little more. It has a shimmied LS6 oil pump.
Here is a better video I took of how fast the oil fills the plastic container when the oil pump is turned off. I tell my son to hook the oil pump back up after the oil level is near the top and you can see the pump suck the oil pretty rapidly.
Seems like there is a lot of oil going to the turbos. Is it too much?
I noticed the breather I have on the valve cover was misting a little. I think the crankcase was being pressurized my the oil return pump when is starts sucking air.
I took the oil reservoir/canister out and put in a Y block for now to drive around town. I will hook the can back up and see if it starts smoking again.
I changed it so that when you go WOT the canister can fill up a bit giving the oil pump a little time to catch up.
The check valves on the feed lines keep the turbos from filling with oil when you shut the car off. There is also a 1 PSI check valve after the oil pump to keep oil from backing up into it when you shut down.
The oil return line starts with a bajo bolt on the bottom of the turbo so it is basically a 90 from the get go. No way to make it go straight down as the car sits way to low for that. Anything other than a 90 would scrape at every driveway.
Oil pressure at idle after it is warmed up is around 50psi and probably close to 80-90psi at WOT. In the morning on initial startup it is also a little more. It has a shimmied LS6 oil pump.
Here is a better video I took of how fast the oil fills the plastic container when the oil pump is turned off. I tell my son to hook the oil pump back up after the oil level is near the top and you can see the pump suck the oil pretty rapidly.
Seems like there is a lot of oil going to the turbos. Is it too much?
I noticed the breather I have on the valve cover was misting a little. I think the crankcase was being pressurized my the oil return pump when is starts sucking air.
I took the oil reservoir/canister out and put in a Y block for now to drive around town. I will hook the can back up and see if it starts smoking again.
curious question... Have you done a compression check or leak down check lately? I had a similar problem...and I had a chipped piston and beat to hell ringlands. your crankcase is not supposed to do that. Look in my link in my sig for the video of mine and pictures/comments.
I don't have sound right now but if that video was taken with your car idling with negative pressure at the manifold and your check valves are oriented correctly to prevent boost into the crankcase and the breather is "steaming" like that... you have lost compression in at least one cylinder. You should have absolutely NO vapor like that at idle... think about it... its in vacuum
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Verdad Gallardo curious question... Have you done a compression check or leak down check lately? I had a similar problem...and I had a chipped piston and beat to hell ringlands. your crankcase is not supposed to do that. Look in my link in my sig for the video of mine and pictures/comments.
I don't have sound right now but if that video was taken with your car idling with negative pressure at the manifold and your check valves are oriented correctly to prevent boost into the crankcase and the breather is "steaming" like that... you have lost compression in at least one cylinder. You should have absolutely NO vapor like that at idle... think about it... its in vacuum
I don't have sound right now but if that video was taken with your car idling with negative pressure at the manifold and your check valves are oriented correctly to prevent boost into the crankcase and the breather is "steaming" like that... you have lost compression in at least one cylinder. You should have absolutely NO vapor like that at idle... think about it... its in vacuum
I saw on your thread that you are using a resister on your oil pump. Would it be a good idea to use one in this setup? I so where would I get one?
I can get a Hobbs switch to put the pump in high/low at 1psi of boost or 0 vacuum.
I have a catch can but the line that is supposed to go to the inlet on the compressor housing is not hooked up at the moment because I took the filters off while troubleshooting. Would that cause any ill effects beside the obvious of sucking in dirt?
I don't have the tools to do a leak down test but I did do a compression test. I only got to do #1, #3, #5, #7 and #2 and they were all within 2-5 of each other.
I saw on your thread that you are using a resister on your oil pump. Would it be a good idea to use one in this setup? I so where would I get one?
I can get a Hobbs switch to put the pump in high/low at 1psi of boost or 0 vacuum.
I have a catch can but the line that is supposed to go to the inlet on the compressor housing is not hooked up at the moment because I took the filters off while troubleshooting. Would that cause any ill effects beside the obvious of sucking in dirt?
I saw on your thread that you are using a resister on your oil pump. Would it be a good idea to use one in this setup? I so where would I get one?
I can get a Hobbs switch to put the pump in high/low at 1psi of boost or 0 vacuum.
I have a catch can but the line that is supposed to go to the inlet on the compressor housing is not hooked up at the moment because I took the filters off while troubleshooting. Would that cause any ill effects beside the obvious of sucking in dirt?
I removed the resistor....
I removed the hobbs switch....
I have a catch can but the line that is supposed to go to the inlet on the compressor housing is not hooked up at the moment because I took the filters off while troubleshooting. Would that cause any ill effects beside the obvious of sucking in dirt?
what cam do you have? do you have a check valve and a catch can for your PCV setup? is the check valve oriented correctly?
I removed the resistor....
I removed the hobbs switch....
?? what? If you have a catch can... the lines from it are supposed to go from the valley OR valve cover to your intake manifold. Then there is supposed to be a check valve in the line to the manifold such that positive pressure DOES NOT go to the valley/valve cover.
I removed the resistor....
I removed the hobbs switch....
?? what? If you have a catch can... the lines from it are supposed to go from the valley OR valve cover to your intake manifold. Then there is supposed to be a check valve in the line to the manifold such that positive pressure DOES NOT go to the valley/valve cover.
I have the RX can with the three nipples on it. One goes to the inlet on the turbos compressor wheel. The middles one is tee'd and goes to the port on the rear drivers side valve cover and the nipple on the LS2 valley cover. The last one goes to the port on the intake. the two outer ports of the RX can have check valves on them.
I also have the port on the passenger valve cover capped and a breather on the oil filler cap.
No, it would scrape on the ground if I tried to put the pump lower than the turbo. I checked it though and it pulls the oil up pretty fast as you can see in the video.
I took the car out for a 25-30 minute drive with the reservoir box removed and it still has some smoke coming from the exhaust. I am going to clean the first pipes that are attached to the compressor housing and drive some more. If after the drive they have any oil them I will assume the turbos are bad.
I have a 370ci with a 76mm f/m turbo and had the same problem. What I did to remedy that was run a nos fitting inside my oil line (the line that feeds the top of the turbo). I don't remember the fitting size, but if you need it please let me know. I'll find out for you. Driving around under normal conditions, no smoke. After a hard run, there was smoke, but nothing like it was before the fitting was placed inside the line.
curious about the check valve on the return line. is this a big thing to have? ive been wondering about this sicne im in the process of piecing together my oil system. I have 4an feed side with 10 an return.
also, im returning the oil with an oil cooler. should i have the cooler pre or post oil pump?
also, im returning the oil with an oil cooler. should i have the cooler pre or post oil pump?
