70 Chevelle Restomod 5.3 w/S475 and 4L80E, Videos start on page 10
03-11-2015, 10:22 AM
#243
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Update time:
While going through everything I found what I have determined to be the issue causing the car to hesitate last fall. The flex coupler that I placed on my driverside crossover had failed. I caught it just before it became a turbo eating disaster.
Looking down the pipe in the opposite direction of exhaust flow.
A couple more shots once cut out.
It was not designed for pre-turbo applications .... lesson learned. My replacement came from Vibrant and is one of their turboflex couplers. IE it doesn't have any wire mesh on the inside to come apart and cause problems.
Replacement flexjoint almost finished.
My new S475 from Forced Inductions.
Size comparison shots between the S475 and T76.
I chose the T4 turbine housing so I could use my existing hotside. I also went with the 92mm exhaust wheel and 1.25 ar based on my buddy John's recommendation and Jose confirmed it. I will knife edge the divider on the exhaust housing as my hotside is non-divided.
Had to get the BFH out and make some room for the bigger exhaust housing.
I will be removing the inner fenders again at some point to fill in all the misc. little holes and will smooth out my turbo dent at that time.
All mounted up and waiting to make some power lol
I decided to re-route the coldside pre-intercooler and reduce the amount of bends. With limited space a cast 90* elbow welded right to the compressor outlet was the only way to make it fit.
Working on the transition in the downpipe to get over and reach the new turbine outlet.
I removed more material from the radiator support so I could remove my intercooler from the engine bay vs pulling the whole front end off the car.
Started on my 80E swap as well. I took the trans over to a buddy and we tore it down, replaced all the clutch's, seals and gaskets, tossed in a Transgo HD-2 kit and reassembled it. It was a lower mileage unit so all the hard parts looked great. I ordered a Circle D 258mm Pro - Multi Disk lockup converter to go with it. So hopefully the new setup should be able to handle all the power I want to throw at it.
More updates to follow as I get this thing back road ready!
While going through everything I found what I have determined to be the issue causing the car to hesitate last fall. The flex coupler that I placed on my driverside crossover had failed. I caught it just before it became a turbo eating disaster.
Looking down the pipe in the opposite direction of exhaust flow.
A couple more shots once cut out.
It was not designed for pre-turbo applications .... lesson learned. My replacement came from Vibrant and is one of their turboflex couplers. IE it doesn't have any wire mesh on the inside to come apart and cause problems.
Replacement flexjoint almost finished.
My new S475 from Forced Inductions.
Size comparison shots between the S475 and T76.
I chose the T4 turbine housing so I could use my existing hotside. I also went with the 92mm exhaust wheel and 1.25 ar based on my buddy John's recommendation and Jose confirmed it. I will knife edge the divider on the exhaust housing as my hotside is non-divided.
Had to get the BFH out and make some room for the bigger exhaust housing.
I will be removing the inner fenders again at some point to fill in all the misc. little holes and will smooth out my turbo dent at that time.
All mounted up and waiting to make some power lol
I decided to re-route the coldside pre-intercooler and reduce the amount of bends. With limited space a cast 90* elbow welded right to the compressor outlet was the only way to make it fit.
Working on the transition in the downpipe to get over and reach the new turbine outlet.
I removed more material from the radiator support so I could remove my intercooler from the engine bay vs pulling the whole front end off the car.
Started on my 80E swap as well. I took the trans over to a buddy and we tore it down, replaced all the clutch's, seals and gaskets, tossed in a Transgo HD-2 kit and reassembled it. It was a lower mileage unit so all the hard parts looked great. I ordered a Circle D 258mm Pro - Multi Disk lockup converter to go with it. So hopefully the new setup should be able to handle all the power I want to throw at it.
More updates to follow as I get this thing back road ready!
03-12-2015, 12:30 PM
#247
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Well it won't be a direct comparison because of the trans swap with different ratio's for first and second but you're right it will still be interesting to see how much difference there is.
It would start making positive pressure around 2500 rpm if I footbraked it at all, but I felt the ramp was very slow. I assume that was from a couple of things working against me that I'm remedying one at a time. 1st issue - 4L60E 3.06 first gear, 2nd - 4.11 rear gears, 3rd - 02+ LS6 cam.
Here is a basic view of boost by rpm. This was with 4.5psi spring in the gate and manual boost controller set for roughly 10 psi. Leaving off foot brake around 2200 rpm.
2500 - 0.5psi
3500 - 2.3psi
4500 - 4.5psi
5500 - 7.2psi
6500 - 9.1psi
Running 12.5psi, with same spring in the gate and launching at 2400 RPM it would see roughly 1psi more at each of the RPM points mentioned above.
Now if I would stab the throttle from a slow roll in first it wouldn't even see boost until around 3500-3800 rpm.
It would start making positive pressure around 2500 rpm if I footbraked it at all, but I felt the ramp was very slow. I assume that was from a couple of things working against me that I'm remedying one at a time. 1st issue - 4L60E 3.06 first gear, 2nd - 4.11 rear gears, 3rd - 02+ LS6 cam.
Here is a basic view of boost by rpm. This was with 4.5psi spring in the gate and manual boost controller set for roughly 10 psi. Leaving off foot brake around 2200 rpm.
2500 - 0.5psi
3500 - 2.3psi
4500 - 4.5psi
5500 - 7.2psi
6500 - 9.1psi
Running 12.5psi, with same spring in the gate and launching at 2400 RPM it would see roughly 1psi more at each of the RPM points mentioned above.
Now if I would stab the throttle from a slow roll in first it wouldn't even see boost until around 3500-3800 rpm.
04-15-2015, 10:24 AM
#248
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Update: It's back on the road and running well! Post #1 updated with current setup.
I will post the rest of the story in a week or so when work slows down, things have been pretty busy for me lately.
I will post the rest of the story in a week or so when work slows down, things have been pretty busy for me lately.
04-26-2015, 02:55 PM
#249
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Well I'm sitting in an airport waiting for my next flight that got delayed so I figured I would finish the rest of the winter updates.
the new compressor to intercooler transition
box containing 4L80E awesomeness
awesomeness exposed lol
and stabbed
trans repainted almost ready to go in(I know it shouldn't be painted to help disperse heat but it was already painted and all of the old paint didn't come off in the parts washer and it looked like crap)
stock crossmember with tab removed from front and re-welded on the backside
transition in downpipe all finished up
lower rad outlet cutoff and re-welded pointing out and down to accommodate rad shifted to driverside
new jy efans to fit smaller aluminum radiator
new aluminum dual pass rad with efan mounting tabs and petcock installed
LSTShuvel 2.0 engine bay pic, still a couple things to finish up but this is how it sits for now.
Starting to put some miles on the new setup and pretty happy with it so far. Did run into an issue that got the best of me for a couple days though. It would start up and drive fine when it was cold and warm but once it was good and heat soaked it would break-up under boost. I started by looking at plugs, didn't see anything wrong but swapped in a new set anyways...same problem. Visually inspected all plug wires and measured resistance, all were within 50 ohms, no problem there. Decided to drive it one more time with new plugs to see what happened, only took my flashscan instead of laptop and noticed the voltage it was reporting seemed pretty low......kept watching and it got worse as it warmed up. Never saw it before because I didn't have voltage as a graphed PID on the laptop
Moral of the story ... always look at every PID you logged lol
Shot of the car after first time driving it to work this year.
Also picked up a set of Street Lites, so this is the new I mean business look.... until I find a good deal on a set of skinnies for the front that is.
the new compressor to intercooler transition
box containing 4L80E awesomeness
awesomeness exposed lol
and stabbed
trans repainted almost ready to go in(I know it shouldn't be painted to help disperse heat but it was already painted and all of the old paint didn't come off in the parts washer and it looked like crap)
stock crossmember with tab removed from front and re-welded on the backside
transition in downpipe all finished up
lower rad outlet cutoff and re-welded pointing out and down to accommodate rad shifted to driverside
new jy efans to fit smaller aluminum radiator
new aluminum dual pass rad with efan mounting tabs and petcock installed
LSTShuvel 2.0 engine bay pic, still a couple things to finish up but this is how it sits for now.
Starting to put some miles on the new setup and pretty happy with it so far. Did run into an issue that got the best of me for a couple days though. It would start up and drive fine when it was cold and warm but once it was good and heat soaked it would break-up under boost. I started by looking at plugs, didn't see anything wrong but swapped in a new set anyways...same problem. Visually inspected all plug wires and measured resistance, all were within 50 ohms, no problem there. Decided to drive it one more time with new plugs to see what happened, only took my flashscan instead of laptop and noticed the voltage it was reporting seemed pretty low......kept watching and it got worse as it warmed up. Never saw it before because I didn't have voltage as a graphed PID on the laptop
Moral of the story ... always look at every PID you logged lolShot of the car after first time driving it to work this year.
Also picked up a set of Street Lites, so this is the new I mean business look.... until I find a good deal on a set of skinnies for the front that is.
06-30-2015, 11:31 AM
#250
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Overdue update:
I have been working out a few kinks in the new setup over the last two months. The car developed a slight misfire at idle and cruise but wouldn't set a code. So I checked plugs again... no issues. While trying to figure it out a buddy said he thought he heard a vacuum leak so we hooked up a smoke machine and discovered almost all of the injector's had a leak going into the intake manifold. Installed new o-rings and shortened my fuel rail spacers, double checked for leaks with the smoke machine and still had the miss. Pulled plug wires and closely examined them to determine 4 - had hairline cracks in the silicone. Replaced the 4 cracked one's with 4 I had lying around and misfire is gone. So I will be relocating my coils for sure this winter.
Then I'm still fighting a heating issue. I swapped to the aluminum dual pass and a different set of Efans to fit the S475 and haven't got it completely fixed yet but am getting closer. For some reason the PCM won't turn on the second fan, the relay just clicks. I can manually trigger the relay by connecting pin#85 to ground and the fan works just fine. I definitely have the tune setup for 2 fans, tried re-flashing the tune just to make sure, no difference, so I'm still at a loss on that. I just wired fan 2 relay pin#85 to pcm fan 1 signal for now, so both come on at the same time. I have also added some rubber to close the gap between the rad support and the smaller radiator. If it still has an issue after these changes I'm going to either modify the fan shroud or look for a better fan setup.
In other word's I don't have any exciting burnout vids or track vids to post yet but rest assured they will be posted as soon as they are made lol
I have been working out a few kinks in the new setup over the last two months. The car developed a slight misfire at idle and cruise but wouldn't set a code. So I checked plugs again... no issues. While trying to figure it out a buddy said he thought he heard a vacuum leak so we hooked up a smoke machine and discovered almost all of the injector's had a leak going into the intake manifold. Installed new o-rings and shortened my fuel rail spacers, double checked for leaks with the smoke machine and still had the miss. Pulled plug wires and closely examined them to determine 4 - had hairline cracks in the silicone. Replaced the 4 cracked one's with 4 I had lying around and misfire is gone. So I will be relocating my coils for sure this winter.
Then I'm still fighting a heating issue. I swapped to the aluminum dual pass and a different set of Efans to fit the S475 and haven't got it completely fixed yet but am getting closer. For some reason the PCM won't turn on the second fan, the relay just clicks. I can manually trigger the relay by connecting pin#85 to ground and the fan works just fine. I definitely have the tune setup for 2 fans, tried re-flashing the tune just to make sure, no difference, so I'm still at a loss on that. I just wired fan 2 relay pin#85 to pcm fan 1 signal for now, so both come on at the same time. I have also added some rubber to close the gap between the rad support and the smaller radiator. If it still has an issue after these changes I'm going to either modify the fan shroud or look for a better fan setup.
In other word's I don't have any exciting burnout vids or track vids to post yet but rest assured they will be posted as soon as they are made lol
07-02-2015, 12:18 AM
#252
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160* Tstat
Found my issue with the 2nd fan, after wiring both relays to fan 1 signal, I popped the fuse on the 2nd fan. Looked the wiring over and found a short where it rubbed a metal edge, fixed the wiring then loomed it and rerouted it.
I left both fans on fan 1 signal and it was able to keep it cool while it was 90* out earlier tonight. We'll see what happens tomorrow when it's 100*.
Found my issue with the 2nd fan, after wiring both relays to fan 1 signal, I popped the fuse on the 2nd fan. Looked the wiring over and found a short where it rubbed a metal edge, fixed the wiring then loomed it and rerouted it.
I left both fans on fan 1 signal and it was able to keep it cool while it was 90* out earlier tonight. We'll see what happens tomorrow when it's 100*.
07-03-2015, 01:08 PM
#253
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Hey glad to see an update. Car is looking good!
I had a similar issue with my fan when I first wired it up. The relay was constantly clicking and the fan wasn't turning very fast. Turns out I had the "fan off" temp set higher than the "fan on" temp. Which basically caused the ECU to rapidly turn the relay on and off. Worked a lot better after I figured that out! Not sure if those symptoms fit your car or not, worth checking though!
How did the trans swap go? Any massaging required to the tunnel? Thinking about putting a 4L80 in my car.
I had a similar issue with my fan when I first wired it up. The relay was constantly clicking and the fan wasn't turning very fast. Turns out I had the "fan off" temp set higher than the "fan on" temp. Which basically caused the ECU to rapidly turn the relay on and off. Worked a lot better after I figured that out! Not sure if those symptoms fit your car or not, worth checking though!
How did the trans swap go? Any massaging required to the tunnel? Thinking about putting a 4L80 in my car.
07-03-2015, 03:37 PM
#254
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Thanks man!
Your recommendation on the fan was one of the first results when I searched fan relay just clicks, so checked that right away.
Got the fan issue sorted out after fixing the wiring, was able to keep it cool during the 100* temps yesterday.
The trans swap was easy, no tunnel mods at all. Re-pinned the harness, did an 80E segment swap on the tune, had a 80E yoke put on the driveline, cut the tab off the front of the trans crossemember and had it welded on the backside, then finished it up by drilling a couple new holes in the frame.
Your recommendation on the fan was one of the first results when I searched fan relay just clicks, so checked that right away.
Got the fan issue sorted out after fixing the wiring, was able to keep it cool during the 100* temps yesterday.
The trans swap was easy, no tunnel mods at all. Re-pinned the harness, did an 80E segment swap on the tune, had a 80E yoke put on the driveline, cut the tab off the front of the trans crossemember and had it welded on the backside, then finished it up by drilling a couple new holes in the frame.
07-06-2015, 09:43 AM
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Thanks guys! Gonna run over to our local 1/8 mile track this weekend and see how things go. Then planning on running up to the 1/4 mile track early October, like Ron said, when it cools off lol.
08-06-2015, 03:46 PM
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Well due to a couple more issues I didn't make it to the track on 7/10 but after those were resolved it gave me some extra time to install some suspension pieces that I hadn't gotten to yet.
I started having an intermittent steering issue that turned out just to be belt slip on the powersteering pump pulley, so that was easily remedied.
Then I killed another used water pump, it started leaking out of the weep hole.
Got the water pump out and ready to install a New one this time.
Then I moved on to the rear end to install UMI adjustable upper and lower control arms along with their braces, new poly bushings for the upper mounts on the 12 bolt and a Hellwig adjustable Pro-Touring style rear sway bar.
I decided to do one side at a time so I didn't have to remove the brake line and bleed the system. The brake line barely gave me enough slack to get the housing low enough to install the new bushings, but it worked.
Couple pics of the UMI pieces.
And a couple more with the Hellwig sway bar in place.
After all of that I retuned the car on E85 @ 14psi to get ready for the track and I actually made it. lol
I hauled the car to the track and had a great weekend besides the 100+ degree temps. The car ran great and only gave me one issue, it pitched the powersteering belt on my 5th pass and ripped it up in the process, luckily I had a spare with me.
Here are a couple time slips from the weekend, the first one is my best ET and the second one is my highest mph. I am very pleased with these results as the 7.69 is my fastest ET at this track even beating my previous best with the Nitrous 355 and 100 mph in the 1/8 just sounds good.
I still need to find a way to get the car off the line as the 60ft is horrible but I least have it running well on the big end.
I started having an intermittent steering issue that turned out just to be belt slip on the powersteering pump pulley, so that was easily remedied.
Then I killed another used water pump, it started leaking out of the weep hole.
Got the water pump out and ready to install a New one this time.
Then I moved on to the rear end to install UMI adjustable upper and lower control arms along with their braces, new poly bushings for the upper mounts on the 12 bolt and a Hellwig adjustable Pro-Touring style rear sway bar.
I decided to do one side at a time so I didn't have to remove the brake line and bleed the system. The brake line barely gave me enough slack to get the housing low enough to install the new bushings, but it worked.
Couple pics of the UMI pieces.
And a couple more with the Hellwig sway bar in place.
After all of that I retuned the car on E85 @ 14psi to get ready for the track and I actually made it. lol
I hauled the car to the track and had a great weekend besides the 100+ degree temps. The car ran great and only gave me one issue, it pitched the powersteering belt on my 5th pass and ripped it up in the process, luckily I had a spare with me.
Here are a couple time slips from the weekend, the first one is my best ET and the second one is my highest mph. I am very pleased with these results as the 7.69 is my fastest ET at this track even beating my previous best with the Nitrous 355 and 100 mph in the 1/8 just sounds good.
I still need to find a way to get the car off the line as the 60ft is horrible but I least have it running well on the big end.
08-06-2015, 04:57 PM
#260
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Nice runs!! I like your suspension setup.
Congrats on 100MPH in the 1/8th! Did you like the sway bar, did it help the launch at all?
How do you launch the car right now? I've been able to build 5psi on the footbrake at 2500rpm with some tweaking of my tune.
On E85 there is definitely more in it!
Congrats on 100MPH in the 1/8th! Did you like the sway bar, did it help the launch at all?
How do you launch the car right now? I've been able to build 5psi on the footbrake at 2500rpm with some tweaking of my tune.
On E85 there is definitely more in it!