The classic 'will it hold!'
05-08-2012, 01:14 PM
#21
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So everybody is basically saying the same thing, you "should" be ok on low boost, which is what I figured also. Just be prepared to have to do a build if need be. Maybe you are one of the ones that goes years with no issues. Or ya could end up like I did and drop a cylinder on a conservative tune, 10lbs boost, no knock/detonation, 11.2 afr and timing around 15*, car made 530rwhp. Piece of the top of the piston came off at the edge, bounced around, closed the plug strap and threw a misfire code. Checking to see if the fuel injector failed on that cylinder. Well what happened doesn't really matter at this point what's done is done.
As far as what to do to make your setup more durable good advice above, safe quality tune, valve springs to help with float and meth. My new setup will be forged and boost ready, sort of makes this whole thing worth it!
Darion
As far as what to do to make your setup more durable good advice above, safe quality tune, valve springs to help with float and meth. My new setup will be forged and boost ready, sort of makes this whole thing worth it!
Darion
05-08-2012, 01:38 PM
#22
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So everybody is basically saying the same thing, you "should" be ok on low boost, which is what I figured also. Just be prepared to have to do a build if need be. Maybe you are one of the ones that goes years with no issues. Or ya could end up like I did and drop a cylinder on a conservative tune, 10lbs boost, no knock/detonation, 11.2 afr and timing around 15*, car made 530rwhp. Piece of the top of the piston came off at the edge, bounced around, closed the plug strap and threw a misfire code. Checking to see if the fuel injector failed on that cylinder. Well what happened doesn't really matter at this point what's done is done.
As far as what to do to make your setup more durable good advice above, safe quality tune, valve springs to help with float and meth. My new setup will be forged and boost ready, sort of makes this whole thing worth it!
Darion
As far as what to do to make your setup more durable good advice above, safe quality tune, valve springs to help with float and meth. My new setup will be forged and boost ready, sort of makes this whole thing worth it!
Darion
any one got pics of their set ups and videos?
05-08-2012, 01:41 PM
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05-08-2012, 02:06 PM
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If you want to do it right. Then spend the money for after market and to a true return system like I have. But many people don't bother with it. I just wanted to have a fuel system ht can handle whatever I throw at it. My walbro 255 with hot wire plus the external that turns on when in boost should be plenty :-)
05-08-2012, 02:56 PM
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Walbro255 and Hotwire with 60lb injectors took me to 640rwhp. Are you planning on running the A1000 all the time? As in no In tank pump? Because if you are you may want to rethink that. Those a1000 are pretty damn loud. I guess if it was just a track car it wouldn't matter.
05-08-2012, 03:13 PM
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Either do twin in-tank if your planning on running big boost down the road. or do what I did. Second pump has it's own sumped fuel pickup out the bottom of the tank. And runs of Hobbs switch and comes on when in boost. I think my setup is way overkill for what you are needing. Mine should be able to handle 1000+ rwhp with e85 without breaking a sweat. Lonnie's twin setup might be more what you need. Or maybe Hotwire kit and bap would work for you. Maybe someone else could chime in
05-08-2012, 04:39 PM
#31
Definitely go bigger than 4.0" pulley. I made 15psi of boost with a 4.00" pulley with a 7.65" crank pulley. D1 with a front mount, truck inlet etc. Also, I'm about out of injector as well, but I am looking into going with an adjustable boost reference regulator to get some room back with my 60# injectors.
I say run meoh and water if you are a stock motor. Here's why. The issue with the stock motor is that the rings are not meant to handle this much power/heat. Once you push that much power, the rings being gapped too tight have a tendency to butt together and take out piston ring lands. For whatever reason, #7 gets the hottest and causes issues.
Methanol is great for adding octane and power, but it doesn't cool a chamber/piston as well as adding water. Once the methanol ignites, it adds to the heat in the chamber where the water continues to pull heat out of the chamber.
I never saw knock and my afr's were mid to high 10s and I took out #7 (and the second ring land on #5) during a cold dry day in January. Perefect recipe for high heat in the chambers.
You live and learn. I should have upped my pulley size when I realized how much boost I was really running, but the power was too addictive and I thought keeping the afr in check, and only running 13 degrees of timing would keep it together. Low and behold almost every ring in my motor had signs of them butting together. My machinist and I checked my ring gap and found that it was on the tight side of the factory spec, which was great for making n/a power, but with boost it was just unsafe.
I say run meoh and water if you are a stock motor. Here's why. The issue with the stock motor is that the rings are not meant to handle this much power/heat. Once you push that much power, the rings being gapped too tight have a tendency to butt together and take out piston ring lands. For whatever reason, #7 gets the hottest and causes issues.
Methanol is great for adding octane and power, but it doesn't cool a chamber/piston as well as adding water. Once the methanol ignites, it adds to the heat in the chamber where the water continues to pull heat out of the chamber.
I never saw knock and my afr's were mid to high 10s and I took out #7 (and the second ring land on #5) during a cold dry day in January. Perefect recipe for high heat in the chambers.
You live and learn. I should have upped my pulley size when I realized how much boost I was really running, but the power was too addictive and I thought keeping the afr in check, and only running 13 degrees of timing would keep it together. Low and behold almost every ring in my motor had signs of them butting together. My machinist and I checked my ring gap and found that it was on the tight side of the factory spec, which was great for making n/a power, but with boost it was just unsafe.
05-08-2012, 05:27 PM
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Definitely go bigger than 4.0" pulley. I made 15psi of boost with a 4.00" pulley with a 7.65" crank pulley. D1 with a front mount, truck inlet etc. Also, I'm about out of injector as well, but I am looking into going with an adjustable boost reference regulator to get some room back with my 60# injectors.
I say run meoh and water if you are a stock motor. Here's why. The issue with the stock motor is that the rings are not meant to handle this much power/heat. Once you push that much power, the rings being gapped too tight have a tendency to butt together and take out piston ring lands. For whatever reason, #7 gets the hottest and causes issues.
Methanol is great for adding octane and power, but it doesn't cool a chamber/piston as well as adding water. Once the methanol ignites, it adds to the heat in the chamber where the water continues to pull heat out of the chamber.
I never saw knock and my afr's were mid to high 10s and I took out #7 (and the second ring land on #5) during a cold dry day in January. Perefect recipe for high heat in the chambers.
You live and learn. I should have upped my pulley size when I realized how much boost I was really running, but the power was too addictive and I thought keeping the afr in check, and only running 13 degrees of timing would keep it together. Low and behold almost every ring in my motor had signs of them butting together. My machinist and I checked my ring gap and found that it was on the tight side of the factory spec, which was great for making n/a power, but with boost it was just unsafe.
I say run meoh and water if you are a stock motor. Here's why. The issue with the stock motor is that the rings are not meant to handle this much power/heat. Once you push that much power, the rings being gapped too tight have a tendency to butt together and take out piston ring lands. For whatever reason, #7 gets the hottest and causes issues.
Methanol is great for adding octane and power, but it doesn't cool a chamber/piston as well as adding water. Once the methanol ignites, it adds to the heat in the chamber where the water continues to pull heat out of the chamber.
I never saw knock and my afr's were mid to high 10s and I took out #7 (and the second ring land on #5) during a cold dry day in January. Perefect recipe for high heat in the chambers.
You live and learn. I should have upped my pulley size when I realized how much boost I was really running, but the power was too addictive and I thought keeping the afr in check, and only running 13 degrees of timing would keep it together. Low and behold almost every ring in my motor had signs of them butting together. My machinist and I checked my ring gap and found that it was on the tight side of the factory spec, which was great for making n/a power, but with boost it was just unsafe.
Still waiting to tear down the motor but all the injectors flowed just fine so that was not an issue. Been thinking for a few weeks now that this was a ring issue. Car did run great N/A but didn't last under boost long. BTW, cylinder did drop on a cool day, 45*. 
Darion
05-08-2012, 06:00 PM
#33
Oh, that never happens.....Oh wait, my bet is that's what happened to me! Still waiting to tear down the motor but all the injectors flowed just fine so that was not an issue. Been thinking for a few weeks now that this was a ring issue. Car did run great N/A but didn't last under boost long. BTW, cylinder did drop on a cool day, 45*.
Darion
Still waiting to tear down the motor but all the injectors flowed just fine so that was not an issue. Been thinking for a few weeks now that this was a ring issue. Car did run great N/A but didn't last under boost long. BTW, cylinder did drop on a cool day, 45*. Darion
Cool dry air is great for making power, but power equals heat, and too much heat is a bad juju for a stock shortblock.
Last edited by The Alchemist; 05-08-2012 at 06:16 PM.
05-08-2012, 07:26 PM
#34
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So would the 160 tstat, ls2 water pump, high pressure oil pump, and maybe a efan switch help? Or could i replace those rings for a decent amount of money?
05-08-2012, 09:08 PM
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Your already on borrowed time making 600+ rwhp. You could run a meth dependent tune like me or e-85. I think close to 20% of my fuel is meth. I mean I'm already pushing my ls1 might as well risk the meth kit failing too lol I'm pretty good about checking my a/f. I just caught my external pump when it failed. Premature failure on pump manufacture was like wtf. Anyways. I was getting on it and something didn't feel right . Got out of it got eye on wideband a/f got back into it 16.1 a/f omg wtf holy ****! Got new pump free all good now! I'm betting if I wasnt spraying so much meth motor would have popped
05-09-2012, 07:10 AM
#38
I'd go with Siemens 60lb injectors, a Walbro fuel pump, a 4.50 pulley and an Alky Controls methanol injection kit. The 4.50 pulley should get you around 8 psi and the methanol injection kit will drastically lower the inlet air temps. Top it off with a good tune and I would not expect you to have any problems. Bob
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05-09-2012, 07:26 AM
#39
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Darion
05-09-2012, 08:20 AM
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I'd go with Siemens 60lb injectors, a Walbro fuel pump, a 4.50 pulley and an Alky Controls methanol injection kit. The 4.50 pulley should get you around 8 psi and the methanol injection kit will drastically lower the inlet air temps. Top it off with a good tune and I would not expect you to have any problems. Bob