fast00ls1

Mike13 do u just set at home and wait for chris to post ? R u that intimidated by him? After all he has proved u still question his work!!!!! do relize that the last two cars he did and hauled to get tuned it went flawless not even an exhaust leak!!!

Chris@CBR

Well Mike, I can’t help it if you don’t believe what I saying.

I’ll go into some detail about how I done things and you draw your own conclusions.

First I setup the over boost limits in the Eboost2.
I hooked up the Autometer manual boost gauge in line with the Eboost2 and using regulated shop air checked
to see if the Eboost2 was responding to the changes I made.

With the manual boost gauge teed into the line I can see
how much PSI I’m applying with the regular.

The Eboost2 will read down to one tenth of a pound so something like 5.2 psi may look like 5 psi on the gauge
at first glance, something like 5.5 on the Eboost2 is easy to see as 5-1/2 on the manual gauge.

After setting up the Eboost2 I was comfortable enough
to take the car out for a test drive and make some light
hits to see where we where at.

The manual boost gauge was in the charge pipe
just as it was on the dyno and the Eboost2 was in the intake manifold.

9psi is what was on the manual gauge and 7.5psi is what
the Eboost2 was showing.

I don’t know what’s so strange about that.
That’s 1.5 psi across the stock TB.

Chris@CBR

The haters don't see that part.
No excuses, just power, just smooth dependable let your old lady drive it anywhere site in traffic on the phone and let the AC rock.

I could sell my wife's Sanfe add give her a car like Dan's and never do anything
other than check the oil once a week and keep the tires rotated.

Do that with your hotrod.

Making power is easy, living with it is another the all together.

God Da**it I get tired of this Sh*t.

Chris@CBR

I know what it is, Mike loves this kit.
Mike, you can come out of the closet,
I be gentle.

mike13

iTrader: (27)

Also MightyMouse ran 8.50's with a stock ls6 but it's a restriction on a 500hp build? Also on my build 722rwhp &12lb's, which is a low horsepower rating I ran 137mph in 4050lb car. I only see 1.3lb drop from the turbocharger, thru the intercooler to the intake with a stock tb & ls6 intake.

My1st4thgen

Im sorry mike i like to keep my car dependable i'm not out to make it a drag car or a car that i say is a street car but yet have to work on it everyday. Just because you work for boeing doesnt make you an expert on all things. Chris is known by reputation and thats more than i know about you. If your so good then start your own business and show what you can do because as far as i know your all talk and thats all. When i found out about Chris and what he made i wasnt out for all out power i really was looking for a truely dependable system that i can have fun with.

Chris@CBR

Mike, I can appreciate your position at work, but I not making anything up.

That charge pipe is 3.5", the stock throttle blade is something like 3".

The air is being accelerated though the TB, that's the reason for the pressure
differential.

Put a larger TB on the car and the boost controller with regulate the boost to the same setting but the psi in the charge pipe will be less.

Chris@CBR

Mike, I can't help it if you don't believe me.

I had both gauges on the same air source at the same time so I know there very close.

If you looking at a map sensor reading and comparing it to a gauge or any other source
for that matter with out comparing them first hand you may have more than 1.3 difference in you setup.

Chris@CBR

We had a good night at the track last night.
Dan and I where hoping the car would break into the 10's but we fell short.
11.20's ant to shabby though.

The car is going to need a torque and a after market tranny mount if it sees anymore
drag strip duty.

The first 2 passes where next to cars with open headers and I couldn't hear what the car was doing.

All I could do is watch the gauges.

On the third pass I got next to a newer car with exhaust and I could here a rubbing
sound coming from under the car, so I shut it down.

Turns out the torque arm bent the h*ll out of the bracket bolts to the tail housing
and I could see where the torque arm was trying to separate the trans mount.

All this stuff moving around allowed the drive shaft to get into the safety loop.

The suspension on the car is all stock so some upgrades will have to be made
if any more passes at the drag strip are made.

I think if the car stays on something like Nitto drag radials and is street driven
It will be fine like it is because it will spine the 26 x 11.5 x16 ET Streets if you just mat the gas from a 10 MPH roll.

I put the car on the lift this morning to find where the noise was coming from to take a few pic's, so here they are.

I've got some GoPro videos but I have to find out how to uncompress them.

I was car #16, all passes where made in the right lane.

2002TTTA

That drive shaft loop prolly stop you from having a real bad day!

Moter

iTrader: (20)

pretty dam consistent. Work the bugs out and a few upgrades on suspension and it will be mid 10 secs. Good job.

Chris@CBR

Thanks guys.

It has a 3200ss Yank convertor and about all you can foot break is 2100 rpm.
If the convertor would let me take it to 2500-2800 on the foot break the 60 ft times
might have been in the low 1.7's high 1.6's. But I mite be posting pic's of a broke rear end or trans tail housing.

The car is a blast to drive and the convertor is not so loose that it feels sloppy on the street.

The car is so nice to drive and so well mannered unless you wanted to just drag race
I wouldn't change a thing.

It makes enough power as it is that drag radials will have there hands full holding it under 30 MPH anyway.

Boo"SS"t

iTrader: (2)

Nice runs! I'm pretty sure you guys would have easily dipped into the 10's if the car had some few aftermarket suspension upgrades. Now, where's that video??!!

LilJohn

Love the way the car sounds...but i gotta chuckle a little bit at the X pipe on a turbo car. How much did you choke the CSA down to in the merge area? Any thought given to checking the pressure in the exhaust post turbine?

Love your attention to detail Chris. Im jealous of the fab toys you have to play with.

Couple questions on the IC setup.... what diameter line are you running ? And did you check to see how much head pressure you are making the pump create?

Its cool to see the pump controller... used a hobbs switch and a Greddy turbo timer to do the same thing when i built my Tbird. Do you have a way to manual override the controller from the drivers seat so you can pre chill at the track? Something easily added on a case by case basis im sure. Have you done any water temp monitoring without the heat exchanger plumbed in? With your controller keeping the pump going once your out of boost the ic itself will do the same thing.... depending on data gathered testing... the exchanger and fan might not even be needed. It wasnt on mine.

Chris@CBR

I'm a little tied up right now but I'll get back to your Q's on this tonight, I'm digging my bunker right now, LOL.

Chris@CBR

https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...1569.jpg?stc=1

https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...1570.jpg?stc=1

Chris@CBR

I payed close attention to the CSA, if you cut to much into the pipe you will quickly
lose any gains that the X will provide.

The X provides 2 important factors to the exhaust system, 1 is rigidity and 2 is sound control.

A LS1 F body sounds like sh*t IMO. My goal was to make it as quiet as possible and get ride of that raspy crackling popping sound that these cars all seam to have.

I accomplished both of these goals.

From a performance stand point one would have to test a system back to back to see any gains or loses, this I did not do on these kits.

I started working in muffler shops at about 16 years old, at age 21 I owned my first muffler shop and by age 25 I had 2 of them. I've fabricated my fair share of exhaust systems.

I have installed X systems on many straight back and H pipe dump at the rear axle cars
and all of them picked up ET at the track, some N/A some on the spray.

I've seen as much as 3 tenths drop in ET on a few of them. Those cars probably had the worst combo for there setup and the X was close to what the setup liked.

I never seen any loses on anything with the X system.
But I've never taken a turbo car with another type of system and build a X system to see back to back runs either.
But all the N/A and spray cars I've had a hand in showed some gains.

A buddy of mine bought a new 03 Mach one and the first thing he had me do is
remove the cats and run a 2-1/4 X pipe to the stock mufflers. A year later he put a Procharger on the car and it dynoed something like 610hp through the stock mufflers
@ 12 PSI. We where all surprised that it made that kind of power though the stock mufflers.

Did the X have anything to do with the power it made, I don't know but if it where hurting
it, it couldn't have been by much.

About the intercooler system:
There is a manual run button installed in the hatch latch bracket.
It will run the pump as long as you hold it down.
It can be used to drain the tank by unhooking the return hose and pumping the water out.

It can be used to pump water out and add ice and circulate the water to chill the intercooler system.

there is not one in the car just in the back.

I done this so the system would not need a drain valve on the bottom of the tank.
A drain valve is just something that would drip and get you backed off the line at the track
and get broke off on the street.


The lines are 3/4 id, the pump is a Rule 2000.
I've never checked the head pressure on the pump.
I can tell you this you don't won't to let the return hose get lose in the car
when you are drain the tank. The water is moving!

The system with hold 6.25 gallons with about 2" head space in the tank.

The system would probably get by without the heat exchanger and fan
but it's nice to know when you retuning to the pits from a run that
the system is cooling it's self while you have a beer waiting on the next round.

I never checked the water temps with any kind of gauge.
The 2 cars I put kits on, 1 I kept a check on the water in the tank, it never got past luke warm.

Dan's car, the one in this thread. the IAT's stayed in the low 80's.
I never opened the hatch the whole time at the dyno.
I would occasionally stick my hand in the bumper cover and feel the intercooler.
I think the intercooler system is way over built from anything less than a 1000 hp @ 20 psi.

2000RATA made 945 rwhp with this kit. If I understood him, he told me that the IAT's never got past 100 degrees.

LilJohn

All your testing about X pipes on N/A, nitrous and blower cars all have one difference than Dan and Chris'.... They dont have those two turbines in the exhaust breaking up and evening out the pulses. And those pulses are what make an X work.

I like the intercooler setup... mainly because its built exactly like i would build it. Lol.

2000RATA

I have the dyno weather sheet here in front of me. It was 84.4 according to the dyno weather station and the data log shows 89. And like Dan's car I didn't switch water out or add ice or anything. That 945 run was the third run after we took lunch that day and the water was unchanged. Felt lukewarm to the touch. I figured this represents a "street car" situation.

Chris@CBR

I agree with you on that.
If it don't add any power it's worth it just for the way it sounds.

I built twin turbo setup for a fox body with a Bennett 331.
The car has twin 64 mm comp wheels.

The exhaust is 3" down to the bell housing area and steps up to 3-1/2
X's and dumps at the rear axle with Dynomax bullets.

The car has been 8.5's so far and they have the car neutered big time
with the 7531 and AMS until about 300 feet.

Max boost is 20 lbs for now.

I'm with you on the X and how it uses the exhaust pulses, but everything I've ever put one on runs good.

I can't put my finger on it but it works.