taking too long to build boost on t-brake re-stall converter?
#1
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Houston
Posts: 728
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Okay ive heard it before Dont loosen your converter to speed up your spool but my car is rediculous....
408 cube LQ9 with PT101
Here is my staging procedure....
roll up to beams... pump up brakes really hard, pump it to pre stage and set low rpm limiter to max rpms foot brake will hold... 2,200 and the car really wants to overpower the brakes.
When the turbo starts whistling and getting a little speed (still in vaccuum though) I ease off until fully staged and set the T-Brake... a launch at 4,000 is as low an rpm I can actually build boost at but on the T-Brake the car will initially only rev to 3,000 and as the turbo barely starts putting out boost and the turbo gains speed the engine stuggles to power through the converter and get to 4 k..... After about 3.5 seconds on the high rpm chip.
I cant think of anything else but the converter is just too damn tight. What do all yall other 8 second big turbo guys think?
Also even with a really tight converter the car would either blow the tires off or go sky high with 3.90 gears, I swapped to 3.40 gears and now I cant hit the tire with any authority at all and get a good hook. Also when I hit high gear the car will frequently put the tires up in smoke. It is time for new tires btw and I want to run some sort of heads up class what tires do I need? Car has no boost controller yet running at 16 psi shes gone 5.80s with the 3.90 gear but the 3.40s should let her run alot faster.
408 cube LQ9 with PT101
Here is my staging procedure....
roll up to beams... pump up brakes really hard, pump it to pre stage and set low rpm limiter to max rpms foot brake will hold... 2,200 and the car really wants to overpower the brakes.
When the turbo starts whistling and getting a little speed (still in vaccuum though) I ease off until fully staged and set the T-Brake... a launch at 4,000 is as low an rpm I can actually build boost at but on the T-Brake the car will initially only rev to 3,000 and as the turbo barely starts putting out boost and the turbo gains speed the engine stuggles to power through the converter and get to 4 k..... After about 3.5 seconds on the high rpm chip.
I cant think of anything else but the converter is just too damn tight. What do all yall other 8 second big turbo guys think?
Also even with a really tight converter the car would either blow the tires off or go sky high with 3.90 gears, I swapped to 3.40 gears and now I cant hit the tire with any authority at all and get a good hook. Also when I hit high gear the car will frequently put the tires up in smoke. It is time for new tires btw and I want to run some sort of heads up class what tires do I need? Car has no boost controller yet running at 16 psi shes gone 5.80s with the 3.90 gear but the 3.40s should let her run alot faster.
#3
Coal Mining Director
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Virginia
Posts: 4,442
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Gonna lose power from a 101 to an 88. How much timing are you running when trying to build boost? You should be abble to foot brake 3000 - 3200 easily at 3psi and bump into the second beam at wot. Then hit the tb and go where you want it.
Sounds like the converter is fighting you. If you keep the 101 Chance makes a bolt together converter that works well. Mine foot brakes 3200 easily, flashes to 5500 at 8psi off the tb and is 92% locked up +6500rpm.
Sounds like the converter is fighting you. If you keep the 101 Chance makes a bolt together converter that works well. Mine foot brakes 3200 easily, flashes to 5500 at 8psi off the tb and is 92% locked up +6500rpm.
#6
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Houston
Posts: 728
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Well your probably a good bit more power than I and if you hook with that stall I surely must as well, do you run a boost controller? I was thinking of precision turbos single stage boost control unit for $269
I could leave at 8 psi and have it ramp up to 16 PSI or full boost after the car is 50 feet down track
I could leave at 8 psi and have it ramp up to 16 PSI or full boost after the car is 50 feet down track
Trending Topics
#8
7 Second Club
iTrader: (11)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Its probably tuneup/setup....
1) Wrap your pipes
2) Add a blanket
3) you can advance your can 4-6 degrees
4) A/F on the footbrake needs to be 12.5-12.7ish for peak torque
5) Timing should be in the 35-43 degree range on the brake getting onto boost
6) Pipes need to be sized accordingly, headers should be 1 5/8" and crossover 2.25" MAX
7) You need dual rear calipers.
My converter starts to get tight at 2800 rpms, goes into boost at 3000, once you build 2-3psi your golden.
1) Wrap your pipes
2) Add a blanket
3) you can advance your can 4-6 degrees
4) A/F on the footbrake needs to be 12.5-12.7ish for peak torque
5) Timing should be in the 35-43 degree range on the brake getting onto boost
6) Pipes need to be sized accordingly, headers should be 1 5/8" and crossover 2.25" MAX
7) You need dual rear calipers.
My converter starts to get tight at 2800 rpms, goes into boost at 3000, once you build 2-3psi your golden.
#9
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Houston
Posts: 728
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Its probably tuneup/setup....
1) Wrap your pipes
2) Add a blanket
3) you can advance your can 4-6 degrees
4) A/F on the footbrake needs to be 12.5-12.7ish for peak torque
5) Timing should be in the 35-43 degree range on the brake getting onto boost
6) Pipes need to be sized accordingly, headers should be 1 5/8" and crossover 2.25" MAX
7) You need dual rear calipers.
My converter starts to get tight at 2800 rpms, goes into boost at 3000, once you build 2-3psi your golden.
1) Wrap your pipes
2) Add a blanket
3) you can advance your can 4-6 degrees
4) A/F on the footbrake needs to be 12.5-12.7ish for peak torque
5) Timing should be in the 35-43 degree range on the brake getting onto boost
6) Pipes need to be sized accordingly, headers should be 1 5/8" and crossover 2.25" MAX
7) You need dual rear calipers.
My converter starts to get tight at 2800 rpms, goes into boost at 3000, once you build 2-3psi your golden.
1 I have already wrapped all my pipes,
2 I also have a turbo blanket,
3 If all else fails Ill have a new cam reground because my current cam is kinda crappy
4 Im not sure what my A/F is on the footbrake but ill see if I can't obtain a wideband, my tuner and I have had a dissagreement about some non race related bs so I will be tuning it from now on.
5. how many g/cyl area would the car typically be at on the TB? I cant data log a TB pull right now my turbo needs to be sent back to precision its completly sloppy and leaking alot of oil, blades also began rubbing
in the .6 g/cyl area from 2200-4400 RPMs I was only given 24* and Im also a LOWWWW compression motor only 8.5:1 do you think the tune could make up for alot of the issue?
6 My header primaries are 1 5/8" and my crossover is 2.25" already
7 I know I know! lol Im just so broke I left the military and am now a full time college student so I still have stock brakes all around.
Here is a video from last summer with my first times down the track after completing the car http://youtu.be/cNnjzNPE058
#10
11 Second Club
iTrader: (43)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Its probably tuneup/setup....
1) Wrap your pipes
2) Add a blanket
3) you can advance your can 4-6 degrees
4) A/F on the footbrake needs to be 12.5-12.7ish for peak torque
5) Timing should be in the 35-43 degree range on the brake getting onto boost
6) Pipes need to be sized accordingly, headers should be 1 5/8" and crossover 2.25" MAX
7) You need dual rear calipers.
My converter starts to get tight at 2800 rpms, goes into boost at 3000, once you build 2-3psi your golden.
1) Wrap your pipes
2) Add a blanket
3) you can advance your can 4-6 degrees
4) A/F on the footbrake needs to be 12.5-12.7ish for peak torque
5) Timing should be in the 35-43 degree range on the brake getting onto boost
6) Pipes need to be sized accordingly, headers should be 1 5/8" and crossover 2.25" MAX
7) You need dual rear calipers.
My converter starts to get tight at 2800 rpms, goes into boost at 3000, once you build 2-3psi your golden.
#11
7 Second Club
iTrader: (11)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Replied below in Red..
First off, thank you Phil especially as well as all the others for advice and you have given me terrific and valid answers to every single FI question Ive ever posted
1 I have already wrapped all my pipes,
2 I also have a turbo blanket,
3 If all else fails Ill have a new cam reground because my current cam is kinda crappy
What are your current cam specs?
4 Im not sure what my A/F is on the footbrake but ill see if I can't obtain a wideband, my tuner and I have had a dissagreement about some non race related bs so I will be tuning it from now on.
I would do a datalog getting up into boost and bump the timing into the 35-38 degree range from WOT to 5psi and see how that works.
5. how many g/cyl area would the car typically be at on the TB?
in the .6 g/cyl area from 2200-4400 RPMs I was only given 24* and Im also a LOWWWW compression motor only 8.5:1 do you think the tune could make up for alot of the issue?
Yes, you probably need to advance the cam 8 degrees, it would help a bunch. Are you on a 3 bar tune? Speed density?
6 My header primaries are 1 5/8" and my crossover is 2.25" already
7 I know I know! lol Im just so broke I left the military and am now a full time college student so I still have stock brakes all around.
Here is a video from last summer with my first times down the track after completing the car http://youtu.be/cNnjzNPE058
1 I have already wrapped all my pipes,
2 I also have a turbo blanket,
3 If all else fails Ill have a new cam reground because my current cam is kinda crappy
What are your current cam specs?
4 Im not sure what my A/F is on the footbrake but ill see if I can't obtain a wideband, my tuner and I have had a dissagreement about some non race related bs so I will be tuning it from now on.
I would do a datalog getting up into boost and bump the timing into the 35-38 degree range from WOT to 5psi and see how that works.
5. how many g/cyl area would the car typically be at on the TB?
in the .6 g/cyl area from 2200-4400 RPMs I was only given 24* and Im also a LOWWWW compression motor only 8.5:1 do you think the tune could make up for alot of the issue?
Yes, you probably need to advance the cam 8 degrees, it would help a bunch. Are you on a 3 bar tune? Speed density?
6 My header primaries are 1 5/8" and my crossover is 2.25" already
7 I know I know! lol Im just so broke I left the military and am now a full time college student so I still have stock brakes all around.
Here is a video from last summer with my first times down the track after completing the car http://youtu.be/cNnjzNPE058
#13
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Houston
Posts: 728
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It seemed alot slower yesterday though...in fact, one time it wouldnt come up on the two step at all.....it stuck the tach at 3,000 and said no more, maybe its because the turbo was on its way out? I can see little scrapes on the compressor housing.
Cam is 231/239 .643/.649 117LSA I cannot remember the ICL
Im on Speed Density and 2 Bar but I max the 2 bar sensor with 16 psi
Cam is 231/239 .643/.649 117LSA I cannot remember the ICL
Im on Speed Density and 2 Bar but I max the 2 bar sensor with 16 psi
Last edited by z28boysteve; 05-28-2012 at 05:06 PM.
#17
Coal Mining Director
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Virginia
Posts: 4,442
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
2,200 and the car really wants to overpower the brakes
Did CD know the combo before they spec'd the converter?
My stock brakes easily hold 3200....if you are fighting 2200.....![Secret](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies3/secret2.gif)
Turbo converter technology has come a long way for a turbo specific converter.
Did CD know the combo before they spec'd the converter?
My stock brakes easily hold 3200....if you are fighting 2200.....
![Secret](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies3/secret2.gif)
Turbo converter technology has come a long way for a turbo specific converter.
#20
10 Second Club
iTrader: (10)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
This is what you need. http://www.prolineracing.net/index.p...hk=1&Itemid=61
Sounds like the converter is slightly too tight though also.
I'd honestly look somewhere else for the converter with a big turbo car like that like PTC, Pro Torque, Chance, ATI etc.
Sounds like the converter is slightly too tight though also.
I'd honestly look somewhere else for the converter with a big turbo car like that like PTC, Pro Torque, Chance, ATI etc.