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Precision Turbo THIEVES!

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Old 09-26-2012, 07:56 AM
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You mean a company with the name 'Percision' in it doesn't make a good product? Tell me it's not so!
Old 09-26-2012, 11:39 AM
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it seems most of the issues occur in the larger 88mm+ sizes....
Old 09-26-2012, 12:12 PM
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I wouldn't say that all the ones I have seen fail in person were the 6765's. Just seems like bad quality all the way around on their newer stuff.
Old 09-27-2012, 02:56 PM
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believe me, I don't want to see a company like precision turbo go down the tubes. I have a PT3000 A2W intercooler and its badass. and my PT101 made great power when it was in good health. Im running 16 PSI and getting 900 Rwhp on some really mild stuff. But these turbo failures are pissing me off they need to get to the bottom of it. Turbo companies have a history of screwing me over and Ive been stiffed way worse before. Pro Turbo Kits of San Antonio charged me $7000 for a "custom" turbo kit. When I got back from Iraq I opened the box it was a half-complete turbo kit for a stock motor and a T4 turbo with a 3" downpipe and 2.25" intercooler and charge pipe... Sick kit for a HONDA. Nothing was done like I wanted and when I tried to call they were out of business.
Old 09-27-2012, 03:06 PM
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Maybe your 2000+hp capable turbo is committing suicide because it hates you're car so much, maybe it feels under appreciated only making 900 at the wheels?

(coming from a guy who's had 3 turbos this year, one of them being a
X275 88 just sitting unused)

Find a known good USED LF precision and put it on!
Andy

Last edited by LT1 ANDY; 09-27-2012 at 03:28 PM.
Old 09-27-2012, 03:19 PM
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I dont have the money for a stronger top end. Im running LS3 heads and im scared to push it any harder. If I had money I would put some mast heads on and up the boost and run 1300 rwhp and probably 7s. I wish I had gotten a big *** 88 mm instead though.
Old 01-13-2014, 07:14 PM
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Funny I do a google search because I had 2 brand new 6266's fail on me after 5 dyno pulls. One has major shaft play you can hear squeal after now and then other is almost there. Good thing is no damage and caught in time. But still 2 turbos brand new 5 pulls and failure and I get "hey 3 weeks we might fix them"
Old 01-13-2014, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 1INSANEGTO
Funny I do a google search because I had 2 brand new 6266's fail on me after 5 dyno pulls. One has major shaft play you can hear squeal after now and then other is almost there. Good thing is no damage and caught in time. But still 2 turbos brand new 5 pulls and failure and I get "hey 3 weeks we might fix them"
Yep, I had twin 6262's failed on my after a few weeks, sent them in rebuilt, failed again, sent them in and they are ruined. Told I wasn't doing something right. Needed to be -6 instead of -4. Put on a set of On3's to figure problem out. Car doesn't miss a beat, runs a new best, and has been on the car with zero issues for over a year now. Precisions' suck! Yet everyone knocks the chinese **** but my junk chinese **** worked better than my precisions and weren't a grand each.

The one turbo that was supposedly still okay, I gave away. No ****. I didn't ask a ******* penny for it.
Old 01-14-2014, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Wicked69
Yep, I had twin 6262's failed on my after a few weeks, sent them in rebuilt, failed again, sent them in and they are ruined. Told I wasn't doing something right. Needed to be -6 instead of -4. Put on a set of On3's to figure problem out. Car doesn't miss a beat, runs a new best, and has been on the car with zero issues for over a year now. Precisions' suck! Yet everyone knocks the chinese **** but my junk chinese **** worked better than my precisions and weren't a grand each.

The one turbo that was supposedly still okay, I gave away. No ****. I didn't ask a ******* penny for it.
Yeah and that really seems like BS since the guys at Turbonetics told me my -4 lines were more than I needed on my 6165's. I had to put restrictors in mine.

Last edited by 2000RATA; 01-14-2014 at 10:39 AM.
Old 01-14-2014, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 2000RATA
Yeah and that really seems like BS since the guys at Turbonetics told me my -4 lines were more than I needed on my 6165's. I had to put restrictors in mine.
what do your drains look like? nice fall to them? no sharp bends right at the turbo?

EDIT: I only ask becuase ive used and been part of a lot of turbonetics builds, and love them.. Ive never seen one go bad, and never seen one leak, assuming they have the proper drain.. Most people dont understand, the instructions say not to install the drain any more then 15* from vertical. Ive followed these instructions and never had an issue. Also, the air filter or the tube in which your airfilter is attached is a huge deal to... try to breathe through a straw and it'll suck the seals in... Food for thought.

Last edited by JAX04; 01-14-2014 at 10:02 AM.
Old 01-14-2014, 10:07 AM
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Haven't had an issue with my unit large frame
Old 01-14-2014, 10:18 AM
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I have a PT101 on my Chevelle and have had the same issues. I heard the "oh you didn't know you were supposed to put a -6 oil feed line in???" The Garrett I had on there before had thousands of miles on it with -4 and ZERO issues. They got me the first time, $450 to change bearings and six weeks of sitting. Lasted a year and same problem. Called their tech dept and said that I was having the same issue (oil in the compressor housing) They asked if I drove it on the street and I said yes, "oh thats not a street turbo" WTF, not a street turbo?? Needless to say I will not be using one of their turbos again, total POS and their customer service sucks. Sent the turbo to Reed at Work Turbos and have not had an issue since.
Old 01-14-2014, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by 9sectruck
this thread is scarying me I have a new pt88 for my build and I talked to PT and they told me that 4an feed and a 10an would be suffecent for the turbo.
do I need a bigger feed line for my build??
if so how does a 6an line supplying the turbo give the engine enough oil to to keep the bearings in it. 6an line is alot of oil being pushed out of the engine that the engine bearings never see

I would make sure it was in writing. I always keep Email records of stuff like this.
Old 01-14-2014, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by JAX04
what do your drains look like? nice fall to them? no sharp bends right at the turbo?

EDIT: I only ask becuase ive used and been part of a lot of turbonetics builds, and love them.. Ive never seen one go bad, and never seen one leak, assuming they have the proper drain.. Most people dont understand, the instructions say not to install the drain any more then 15* from vertical. Ive followed these instructions and never had an issue. Also, the air filter or the tube in which your airfilter is attached is a huge deal to... try to breathe through a straw and it'll suck the seals in... Food for thought.
There is only about 4" of -10 line on the drains. They fall about 1.5" in that distance into the pan. I put a pressure gauge between the oil feed and turbo on each side. What I found was my engine was seeing (in car gauge was reading) about 80 psi at 6000 RPM. That's about bypass pressure on the Mellings HV pump. So that makes sense. But...my gauge pressure on the turbo feed was closer to 90 psi. That's when I spoke with Turbonetics and he (forget his name) told me how much pressure the turbo needs to survive and how much will cause it to blow oil past the seals. He said 20 psi to live and 80 psi absolute max pressure but really 65 psi was all he wanted them to see. I was going way past that. No restrictor engine psi at 65 the turbos saw 80 psi. That was highway psi. I now have .063" restrictors and it idles with 22 psi and goes to 58 psi max now To the turbos.

Edit: I was getting oil in the exhaust side nothing in the compressor side. I pulled tubes and the intake/charge side from turbo to the throttle body is completely dry not even a film. I'm talking passes a "white glove" test.

Last edited by 2000RATA; 01-14-2014 at 11:02 AM.
Old 01-14-2014, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by JAX04
Also, the air filter or the tube in which your airfilter is attached is a huge deal to... try to breathe through a straw and it'll suck the seals in... Food for thought.
Some people had concerns about the 3"-4" reducer coupling on the air intake on my twin turbo system.
The 61mm comp wheel in his turbos could have been ordered in a "E" comp cover. 3" inlet. Then there would have been no need for a reducer. The APS kit had 3" silicone tubing that was sucking shut and people had to put stents in the tubing to keep this from happening and they still smoked like a train. How did they fix that, with new turbos.

There is nothing wrong with the air intake design or drains. The car didn't smoke a drop until some miles where put on the turbos.

If the air intake was so restrictive the car would not make the retarded power it does at such low boost levels.
Old 01-14-2014, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris@CBR
Some people had concerns about the 3"-4" reducer coupling on the air intake on my twin turbo system.
The 61mm comp wheel in his turbos could have been ordered in a "E" comp cover. 3" inlet. Then there would have been no need for a reducer. The APS kit had 3" silicone tubing that was sucking shut and people had to put stents in the tubing to keep this from happening and they still smocked like a train. How did they fix that, with new turbos.

There is nothing wrong with the air intake design or drains. The car didn't smock a drop until some miles where put on the turbos.

If the air intake was so restrictive the car would not make the retarded power it does at such low boost levels.
Good for your kit... I guess i shouldve been more specific... I wasnt saying "YOUR" kit... Infact, up until your post, i had forgotten about his car being turbo'd by YOUR kit... Good for your kit, im glad it makes a ton of HP.

Next time ask a question before you assume someone is knocking something in particular, and im sorry for saying "your", it was meant as a general statement... sheesh.
Old 01-14-2014, 02:28 PM
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Well I sent them to 3rdcoastturbos which happen to be down the road. Outcome......

1 turbo $450 rebuild
1 turbo cartridge they can't rebuild $850 or wait 20+ days from PTE to rebuild.
Old 01-14-2014, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by JAX04
Good for your kit... I guess i shouldve been more specific... I wasnt saying "YOUR" kit... Infact, up until your post, i had forgotten about his car being turbo'd by YOUR kit... Good for your kit, im glad it makes a ton of HP.

Next time ask a question before you assume someone is knocking something in particular, and im sorry for saying "your", it was meant as a general statement... sheesh.
Hay man no offense taken. I was just making a comparison.
Old 02-13-2014, 01:17 AM
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We just sent my 6266's to Reed @ Works Turbo to go through them. He seems to have a good understanding of what the problem is and his fixes seem to be doing the trick.
Old 02-13-2014, 06:51 AM
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Reed is a great dude and does quality work!


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