RedRocket's 01 Z28 build - S480, Tick Cam, SBE LQ4, 4L80E, E85
#403
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It may or may not be my cheap EMUSA wastegates causing my boost issue though, lol I find it strange that since switching ECU's and going to a billet S480 this year that on spring pressure I am only seeing 5-6 lbs., where as last year it was 9-10 which is what the springs are supposed to be. I have a small exhaust leak somewhere that I can audibly hear but it doesn't seem to be affecting anything else really so I don't know.
Also, the converter desperately needs some attention now. On the 1-2 shift it's only dropping 600 rpm and on the 2-3 it was only 400 rpm. The car should be trapping a little higher on this boost level. I am going to and get as much of the DEX fluid out as I can and put it some low viscosity hygard. Not looking for miracles but anything will help at this point. Also, the hygard should help with heat a little bit. The trans temp was fine until I would get back to the pits and it would shoot up to 215 or so.
One other issue I am having is that fuel pressure isn't rising 1:1. With vac applied it's at 51 psi or so. Come up on the 2 step and it shoots up to 64 psi and then drops to 52-53 psi when I take off and remains there the whole run. AFR's are perfect though which is good. I am going to try another regulator and see if that may be the issue. I tried upping the base pressure just to see what would happen at idle and it would not rise about 64-65 psi and the regulator is a 100 psi unit.
Other than that I am extremely happy with how the car is running. These runs were in a DA of almost 3000' and it was pretty humid out. I know forced induction cars aren't affected too bad by DA but I would like to think the car would go a little quicker in the fall on the same settings. Next time out it will go 5's if it doesn't blow up, ha.
#404
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That is pretty wild. I mentioned it up there but the boost is fluctuating from 16-18 lbs. This pass was on 15* of timing. The pass before was a 6.08 on the same boost level but 14* and the 60' was a 1.42. Last year I was on 17* with the slightly smaller S480.
It may or may not be my cheap EMUSA wastegates causing my boost issue though, lol I find it strange that since switching ECU's and going to a billet S480 this year that on spring pressure I am only seeing 5-6 lbs., where as last year it was 9-10 which is what the springs are supposed to be. I have a small exhaust leak somewhere that I can audibly hear but it doesn't seem to be affecting anything else really so I don't know.
Also, the converter desperately needs some attention now. On the 1-2 shift it's only dropping 600 rpm and on the 2-3 it was only 400 rpm. The car should be trapping a little higher on this boost level. I am going to and get as much of the DEX fluid out as I can and put it some low viscosity hygard. Not looking for miracles but anything will help at this point. Also, the hygard should help with heat a little bit. The trans temp was fine until I would get back to the pits and it would shoot up to 215 or so.
One other issue I am having is that fuel pressure isn't rising 1:1. With vac applied it's at 51 psi or so. Come up on the 2 step and it shoots up to 64 psi and then drops to 52-53 psi when I take off and remains there the whole run. AFR's are perfect though which is good. I am going to try another regulator and see if that may be the issue. I tried upping the base pressure just to see what would happen at idle and it would not rise about 64-65 psi and the regulator is a 100 psi unit.
Other than that I am extremely happy with how the car is running. These runs were in a DA of almost 3000' and it was pretty humid out. I know forced induction cars aren't affected too bad by DA but I would like to think the car would go a little quicker in the fall on the same settings. Next time out it will go 5's if it doesn't blow up, ha.
It may or may not be my cheap EMUSA wastegates causing my boost issue though, lol I find it strange that since switching ECU's and going to a billet S480 this year that on spring pressure I am only seeing 5-6 lbs., where as last year it was 9-10 which is what the springs are supposed to be. I have a small exhaust leak somewhere that I can audibly hear but it doesn't seem to be affecting anything else really so I don't know.
Also, the converter desperately needs some attention now. On the 1-2 shift it's only dropping 600 rpm and on the 2-3 it was only 400 rpm. The car should be trapping a little higher on this boost level. I am going to and get as much of the DEX fluid out as I can and put it some low viscosity hygard. Not looking for miracles but anything will help at this point. Also, the hygard should help with heat a little bit. The trans temp was fine until I would get back to the pits and it would shoot up to 215 or so.
One other issue I am having is that fuel pressure isn't rising 1:1. With vac applied it's at 51 psi or so. Come up on the 2 step and it shoots up to 64 psi and then drops to 52-53 psi when I take off and remains there the whole run. AFR's are perfect though which is good. I am going to try another regulator and see if that may be the issue. I tried upping the base pressure just to see what would happen at idle and it would not rise about 64-65 psi and the regulator is a 100 psi unit.
Other than that I am extremely happy with how the car is running. These runs were in a DA of almost 3000' and it was pretty humid out. I know forced induction cars aren't affected too bad by DA but I would like to think the car would go a little quicker in the fall on the same settings. Next time out it will go 5's if it doesn't blow up, ha.
#405
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Good passes man! So close to that 5. My car was doing the exact same thing with the fuel pressure. Do you have a stock tank? If so how do you have it vented? I still had all of the stock stuff in my tank w/ no way to vent, so I added a -8 bulkhead and short piece of hardline to a breather. I looked at my passes and I'm at 17% slip and 400ish rpm drop from 1-2. I wish I could find a good converter for these 4L80's.
I have sent my data to Circle-D and they think they can get it tightened up but not kill my spool on the footbrake. I have a couple events coming up that I want to make it to so I may not send it in until the winter.
#406
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Thanks! I am on the stock tank with twin 450 Walbro's. It has the EVAP line just hanging out on top of the tank. I didn't have any issues last year which is why is has me scratching my head. I did change out the pumps this year due to killing a couple of my old 255's that had been in the car for 4 years.
I have sent my data to Circle-D and they think they can get it tightened up but not kill my spool on the footbrake. I have a couple events coming up that I want to make it to so I may not send it in until the winter.
I have sent my data to Circle-D and they think they can get it tightened up but not kill my spool on the footbrake. I have a couple events coming up that I want to make it to so I may not send it in until the winter.
I have a few races coming up too, so I guess I'll just get as much data as I can and look for a new converter over the winter as well. Mines already been back to PTC idk how many times now...
#407
9 Second Club
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I'm having the same exact fuel pressure issues as you but I'm on stock lines and dual 255s so I know they are done. Running 1/8th mile I think you could bump the timing a few degrees and easily be in the 5's. I was pulling a lot of timing in the IAT table past 170 degrees. My IAT never got that hot in the 1/8 or at night but it was about 90 during the day. Going from 14 to 17 in 3rd gained about 1.7 mph and going from 17-18 gained another .7 mph.
PTC now makes a really good 4l80e turbo converter if you can live without the lockup.
PTC now makes a really good 4l80e turbo converter if you can live without the lockup.
#408
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If that's all you have for a vent, that's where I'd start looking. As you turn it up to go faster, it'll only get worse. Simple test would be to remove the gas cap and see if the problem goes away.
I have a few races coming up too, so I guess I'll just get as much data as I can and look for a new converter over the winter as well. Mines already been back to PTC idk how many times now...
I have a few races coming up too, so I guess I'll just get as much data as I can and look for a new converter over the winter as well. Mines already been back to PTC idk how many times now...
I'm having the same exact fuel pressure issues as you but I'm on stock lines and dual 255s so I know they are done. Running 1/8th mile I think you could bump the timing a few degrees and easily be in the 5's. I was pulling a lot of timing in the IAT table past 170 degrees. My IAT never got that hot in the 1/8 or at night but it was about 90 during the day. Going from 14 to 17 in 3rd gained about 1.7 mph and going from 17-18 gained another .7 mph.
PTC now makes a really good 4l80e turbo converter if you can live without the lockup.
PTC now makes a really good 4l80e turbo converter if you can live without the lockup.
#411
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Originally Posted by Nitroused383
I didn't realize you had those rods. I wouldn't add anymore power at all you are right at the limit maybe even above that.
#412
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So I found my fuel pressure issue. This hose had been in the car for a few years and has been used on a couple different pump setups now. Lesson learned!
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Decided to drain the transmission pan and change the filter. This was the first time draining it since the transmission had been rebuilt and the triple disk converter went in. I expected to see some material in the pan but not this much. Thoughts?
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I replaced the filter and refilled the pan with low viscosity HyGuard. Hoping this will be ok since there is still quite a bit of regular ATF in it. I haven't driven the car yet, only ran it through the gears on jack stands to try and get the level correct. It's still on jack stands now which leads me to my next discovery...
...The exhaust leak.
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v628/longer02/2001%20Z28/21BEA9F7-C6E2-4DAC-A7B1-D42093857EE6_zpsryie3xnz.jpg)
As you can tell from that picture the v-band flanges were not lined up correctly for some reason. I am not sure if the hotside shifted or not to cause this.
Another angle...
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Now with the clamp off I cannot get the pipes to come back together. It was always a pain to put on but not this bad. I bought a vibrant turbo flex section that I will get thrown in tomorrow. I do not like the idea of the flex pipes but it will be the easiest thing to do right now I think.
Anyway, this could possibly explain why I am seeing lower boost on spring only. Not sure how much this will effect spool time and whatnot but I will be glad it's fixed. It was a pretty significant leak at idle though. I could feel a pretty pronounced puff of exhaust while holding my hand near the clamp.
I also bought an engine diaper I plan on installing before the next race I am going to attend on September 10th. Hope to get that installed this weekend at some point as well.
![Name: DB28F391-EC36-4B0B-BD0B-E7701A9AE692_zpshphadxhj.jpg
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Size: 81.8 KB](https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachments/forced-induction/599032d1501269789-redrocket-s-01-z28-build-s480-tick-cam-sbe-lq4-4l80e-e85-db28f391-ec36-4b0b-bd0b-e7701a9ae692_zpshphadxhj.jpg)
Decided to drain the transmission pan and change the filter. This was the first time draining it since the transmission had been rebuilt and the triple disk converter went in. I expected to see some material in the pan but not this much. Thoughts?
![Name: F2EB6BE5-4027-4CED-BB19-C3D9DF684D2A_zpsg3ty5ge1.jpg
Views: 148
Size: 111.8 KB](https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachments/forced-induction/599033d1501269789-redrocket-s-01-z28-build-s480-tick-cam-sbe-lq4-4l80e-e85-f2eb6be5-4027-4ced-bb19-c3d9df684d2a_zpsg3ty5ge1.jpg)
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I replaced the filter and refilled the pan with low viscosity HyGuard. Hoping this will be ok since there is still quite a bit of regular ATF in it. I haven't driven the car yet, only ran it through the gears on jack stands to try and get the level correct. It's still on jack stands now which leads me to my next discovery...
...The exhaust leak.
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v628/longer02/2001%20Z28/21BEA9F7-C6E2-4DAC-A7B1-D42093857EE6_zpsryie3xnz.jpg)
As you can tell from that picture the v-band flanges were not lined up correctly for some reason. I am not sure if the hotside shifted or not to cause this.
Another angle...
![Name: 62B26B12-5A70-40B1-86B1-B8811E1E9497_zpsubfjhdye.jpg
Views: 146
Size: 80.4 KB](https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachments/forced-induction/599036d1501269789-redrocket-s-01-z28-build-s480-tick-cam-sbe-lq4-4l80e-e85-62b26b12-5a70-40b1-86b1-b8811e1e9497_zpsubfjhdye.jpg)
![Name: 9FA713B8-3079-4E42-8F4B-363A7B33947C_zpsdoidyhjw.jpg
Views: 150
Size: 100.8 KB](https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachments/forced-induction/599037d1501269789-redrocket-s-01-z28-build-s480-tick-cam-sbe-lq4-4l80e-e85-9fa713b8-3079-4e42-8f4b-363a7b33947c_zpsdoidyhjw.jpg)
Now with the clamp off I cannot get the pipes to come back together. It was always a pain to put on but not this bad. I bought a vibrant turbo flex section that I will get thrown in tomorrow. I do not like the idea of the flex pipes but it will be the easiest thing to do right now I think.
Anyway, this could possibly explain why I am seeing lower boost on spring only. Not sure how much this will effect spool time and whatnot but I will be glad it's fixed. It was a pretty significant leak at idle though. I could feel a pretty pronounced puff of exhaust while holding my hand near the clamp.
I also bought an engine diaper I plan on installing before the next race I am going to attend on September 10th. Hope to get that installed this weekend at some point as well.
#414
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The fluid had a bit of a funky smell to it but wasn't horrible by any means.
The converter will be coming out this winter for sure so I may have the trans looked at just in case. I have no reason to believe the trans is hurt in anyway though. The more power I throw at it the higher the shift RPM goes which I assume is a converter issue.
#415
TECH Resident
iTrader: (2)
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Glad you found your fuel pressure issue. What brand V-bands are those? Does it have a receiver grove to line them up, or is that just the other side of the pipe extended through? If you read anything from Cameronvic he claims the hyguard didn't change the stall of his converter any.
#416
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Glad you found your fuel pressure issue. What brand V-bands are those? Does it have a receiver grove to line them up, or is that just the other side of the pipe extended through? If you read anything from Cameronvic he claims the hyguard didn't change the stall of his converter any.
I've read Cameron's thread and his results with the Hy-Gard. I've also looked through pages of threads over on Yellowbullet and I found it's only the regular Hy-Gard that helps tighten the converter. Either way it should help out with heat some.
#417
TECH Resident
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Yes I already did that. I had the regular viscosity hyguard in it up until about a month ago, I pulled the transmission, put a billet input shaft in it that Jake gave me, knocked the rest of the transmission down and inspected it (I built 2 years ago and learned a lot since then), and got 99% of the hyguard out. Put it back together and put all dex6 in, which is pretty much thinnest fluid I can put in, and it didn't change anything. Not footbrake stall; rpm drop on shifts, cruising rpm when unlocked, stall when I tipped in, etc. and I have datalogs to prove it.
#419
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Got the Hy-Gard in the trans and have put some miles on it. A buddy of mine put on a Poker Run for the upcoming No Prep race this weekend. Probably put over 150 miles on the car on Sunday and all went well.
Here is a picture I snapped quick on Sunday. My buddies 8 second Cobra, and his wifes 6.2L RX7 are in the background.
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I did notice my voltage was almost a volt from where it normally was. On cold start it used to sit around 13.6-13.7 according to the MS3 until recently it was showing 12.7-12.8. Warm it used to drop to 13.1 or so and now it's 12.4. We put a multimeter on it last night and at the battery it is showing over 14 volts so not sure what happened. A couple of my other friends running MS3 had to calibrate their voltage in the software but there's didn't have a random drop like mine did. I didn't mess with the voltage just yet because it will screw up other aspects of the tune.
Lastly, I got my diaper installed last night. I just snugged it up the best I could without cutting it or getting too fancy around the motor mounts and oil drain. It isn't pretty but should do the job for now. Hopefully I won't have to find out this weekend!
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If it doesn't rain tomorrow night some of us are going down to the track for some testing before the No Prep on Saturday. Probably won't do me any good though since I am going to get my *** handed to me, ha.
Here is a picture I snapped quick on Sunday. My buddies 8 second Cobra, and his wifes 6.2L RX7 are in the background.
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I did notice my voltage was almost a volt from where it normally was. On cold start it used to sit around 13.6-13.7 according to the MS3 until recently it was showing 12.7-12.8. Warm it used to drop to 13.1 or so and now it's 12.4. We put a multimeter on it last night and at the battery it is showing over 14 volts so not sure what happened. A couple of my other friends running MS3 had to calibrate their voltage in the software but there's didn't have a random drop like mine did. I didn't mess with the voltage just yet because it will screw up other aspects of the tune.
Lastly, I got my diaper installed last night. I just snugged it up the best I could without cutting it or getting too fancy around the motor mounts and oil drain. It isn't pretty but should do the job for now. Hopefully I won't have to find out this weekend!
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If it doesn't rain tomorrow night some of us are going down to the track for some testing before the No Prep on Saturday. Probably won't do me any good though since I am going to get my *** handed to me, ha.