LS1 STS Kits??
Pro's-
you can tell people it has a turbo
it sounds like a turbo
it will gain good power above 4k rpm
Cons
need a stop watch to time the spool
downshift to get the powerband
always worry about the oil return pump dying
loosing a race against a H/C car because it was taking forever to spool
The lists can keep going.
I find rear mounts are good for stalled A4 cars that spend alot of time at the track.
you can tell people it has a turbo
it sounds like a turbo
it will gain good power above 4k rpm
Cons
need a stop watch to time the spool
downshift to get the powerband
always worry about the oil return pump dying
loosing a race against a H/C car because it was taking forever to spool
The lists can keep going.
I find rear mounts are good for stalled A4 cars that spend alot of time at the track.
Well I own a rearmount and would have agreed with slowhawk,until about an hour ago.my home built t76 rearmount is spools just like he says but makes alot up top,however I just got done helping a local member with tuning a true sts kit with the 67mm turbo and there was really not any lag and it was very responsive with full boost at 3000rpm. Both cars are 98 m6fbodys. And I was honestly quite surprised by the differance between his car and mine,but I also made probly 150rwhp.and I have also beat pleanty heads cam nitrous cars.you either love them or hate them.I personally would prefer front mount but I also love my ac but my rearmount suffices for my needs
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TECH Resident
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 905
Likes: 0
From: VA
If u get an actuall STS kit u should be fine, and i feel rearmount spool isnt bad, just have to run slightly smaller turbine, stock sts is fine, the oil part is what killed it for me, got ride of my rear mount cause it would just leak oil every were, not burn, mine wasnt true sts though, was home built woth mocal pump, had a 1.03AR hot side and i hit full boost at 3800 ish rpms, had lag for being a big turbo but wasnt useless imo
317 heads work well with our cars for FI. Make sure you get some stronger valvesprings and pushrods. As for a cam, talk to PatG but if you do some searching you'll be able to find one that suits your needs. I went with an LS6 cam myself. They do well with FI and you can find them for dirt cheap. Since you're doing heads, you'll also want to get some studs to keep them seated. You'll also need some new head gaskets at a minimum (probably LS9s), but will probably also want some valve cover gaskets, water pump gaskets, crank seal, and a timing cover gasket. I'm sure there's more that I'm forgetting. Also, pick up a new timing chain. Search around and you'll find info on what to go with there. I used an LS2. Much better than the stock LS1 chain but not as good as some other aftermarket ones.
Haven't properly set up rear mounts have shown that the spool time really isn't that big of an issue?
The oil system is a problem, and I'm not yet convinced that these oil-less turbos are a good answer yet. But if you get your hands on an Exa-Pump, you'll probably be set for a good long time. It's the length and complications of the oil lines that I have a problem with. Plus the cold side fabrication seems like a hassle compared to a front mount.
need a stop watch to time the spool
The oil system is a problem, and I'm not yet convinced that these oil-less turbos are a good answer yet. But if you get your hands on an Exa-Pump, you'll probably be set for a good long time. It's the length and complications of the oil lines that I have a problem with. Plus the cold side fabrication seems like a hassle compared to a front mount.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta,GA
So I guess the oil pump is bad on the kits and i would have to get a different one for it. The heads sound like they are a good pair, but the cam I'm not sure on. I do want to get an upgraded cam but does it have to be a boost cam??
Thank you to all the guys so far for your input. Please keep it coming
Thank you to all the guys so far for your input. Please keep it coming
So I guess the oil pump is bad on the kits and i would have to get a different one for it. The heads sound like they are a good pair, but the cam I'm not sure on. I do want to get an upgraded cam but does it have to be a boost cam??
Thank you to all the guys so far for your input. Please keep it coming
Thank you to all the guys so far for your input. Please keep it coming
As for the cam, it all depends on what you want to spend. If you're looking for a cheaper route, the LS6 cam is good bang for the buck. If you can throw more at it, get one custom made.
... 
My knowledge of cams in relation to FI is pretty much zip. Try a search for Torquer V2 in this section of the forum. Or just search for FI cams in general. Try to see what guys running rear mounts who have goals similar to yours are running. Or you can talk to PatG or a place like TSP about it. Custom cuts are very dependent on your specific application and goals.
TECH Resident
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 916
Likes: 5
From: Las Vegas, NV
Big question... Going forged pistons, or stock bottom?
Forged Pistons: Go with 317 heads and custom cam. Good for 800+ rwhp with lots of boost!
Stock Bottom (i.e. stock pistons): Skip the heads for now, you'll max out your pistons before you max out your stock heads. Still do the cam though, LS6 is fine for what you stated as your hp goal (500), and do the valve springs. Put the money you would have spent on heads towards a good set of 60 lb injectors, intercooler, and methanol injection.
For the turbo, I recommend either a 70mm turbo or 76mm turbo (whatever your budget can afford... I run On3 Performance... cheap/effective for my level). Limit your A/R to .81 max.
Run a front mount intercooler, eBay special is fine (biggest that will fit). Get a methanol/water injection system. With FMIC and Methanol, and a good tune, you can push 9 psi max on stock pistons, safely (~500-550 rwhp). Without FMIC and/or methanol/water injection, limit your boost to 6 psi max (450-475 rwhp). Once you go forged, you can turn it up. Stick with stock exhaust manifolds, no headers. Wrap all your exhaust from front to turbo.
Most important thing...make sure you get a good tuner.
Forged Pistons: Go with 317 heads and custom cam. Good for 800+ rwhp with lots of boost!
Stock Bottom (i.e. stock pistons): Skip the heads for now, you'll max out your pistons before you max out your stock heads. Still do the cam though, LS6 is fine for what you stated as your hp goal (500), and do the valve springs. Put the money you would have spent on heads towards a good set of 60 lb injectors, intercooler, and methanol injection.
For the turbo, I recommend either a 70mm turbo or 76mm turbo (whatever your budget can afford... I run On3 Performance... cheap/effective for my level). Limit your A/R to .81 max.
Run a front mount intercooler, eBay special is fine (biggest that will fit). Get a methanol/water injection system. With FMIC and Methanol, and a good tune, you can push 9 psi max on stock pistons, safely (~500-550 rwhp). Without FMIC and/or methanol/water injection, limit your boost to 6 psi max (450-475 rwhp). Once you go forged, you can turn it up. Stick with stock exhaust manifolds, no headers. Wrap all your exhaust from front to turbo.
Most important thing...make sure you get a good tuner.
