lq4 s10 + twin 70's
09-07-2012, 04:46 PM
#22
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Might want to weld a steel plate to the tail gate.
old sbc in a chevy luv trick. people just plain miss it and can't figure out why it hooks so well.
put it where the spare tire goes if you want to be stealthy.
tractor counter weights might be easier to get in WI, idk.
old sbc in a chevy luv trick. people just plain miss it and can't figure out why it hooks so well.
put it where the spare tire goes if you want to be stealthy.
tractor counter weights might be easier to get in WI, idk.
09-07-2012, 08:44 PM
#24
http://youtu.be/Lq1YsaCdFYo
i dont want to add weight, but if i cant hook its probably my only other option, besides tubbing it next year lol.
i think those gt35's should spool really quick and still pull hard up top also. im going to give them a shot and see how they work
09-09-2012, 09:09 AM
#31
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CXRacing-Uni...52b9ab&vxp=mtr
Think I like the ones like this one from Cxracing with the anti-surge ports and slightly smaller turbine. Might help with running a smaller twin like this. Spool should be super fast.
Think I like the ones like this one from Cxracing with the anti-surge ports and slightly smaller turbine. Might help with running a smaller twin like this. Spool should be super fast.
09-09-2012, 07:36 PM
#33
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Hey you think if I drill holes in my frame to allow my downpipes through it would weaken the frame much? I was going to weld .250" wall DOM tubingin the holes and the downpipes will go through them. I don't think the turbos and downpipes will fit between the frame rails and driveshaft. How wide is your 76mm?
09-10-2012, 06:21 AM
#34
I think notching the frame is a little scary. Sheetmetal, ok, but the frame, you getter do some serious thinking about how you are going to make that area as strong as it was before. You are talking a bunch of horsepower you will be subjecting the frame to. Why not put them up front?
09-10-2012, 08:48 AM
#35
I think notching the frame is a little scary. Sheetmetal, ok, but the frame, you getter do some serious thinking about how you are going to make that area as strong as it was before. You are talking a bunch of horsepower you will be subjecting the frame to. Why not put them up front?
black, if i were you, i would place your turbos underneath the bed right before the rear end. that way, you'll have plenty of room for the downpipes and enough ground clearance for your turbos. rearmounts arent a bad idea, IF they are done right. what size turbos are you doing? i sold my 76mm so im guessing it was around a foot wide. also, keep your hotside piping at 2.25" and your coldside at 2.5" and wrap that **** up, itll help amazingly.
09-10-2012, 02:05 PM
#37
I was thinking about 67's too for my lq4 but i decided to do the gt35's we have been taking about on here. And those will support 1000 crank hp so they will spool really quick and won't run out of breath. If i were you, i would either buy the turbos I'm getting or these http://www.ebay.com/itm/Precision-Tu...4bf517&vxp=mtr
I would get the t4 flange with .68ar. That will spool quicker especially cause your rear mounted and will support your goals. And you have a 5.3 to. Which cam are you to run?
I would get the t4 flange with .68ar. That will spool quicker especially cause your rear mounted and will support your goals. And you have a 5.3 to. Which cam are you to run?