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***Important Oil information for ANYONE****

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Old 10-24-2012, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by The Alchemist
I wouldn't use Royal Purple to lubricate a mousetrap much less put it in my car.
love it, could not agree more.

Originally Posted by Louis
IMO, I like zinc levels to be in the 1500+ range. Redline, CAM2, Joe gibbs are all in the 2000+ range.

Thanks to the Alchemist for the knowledge in this thread!
Agreed and again thanks to Louis and Alchemist for the insight.
Old 10-24-2012, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by The Alchemist
For the same reason when you buy a camshaft it says 'for offroad use only'.

Like I said above, yes, the zinc and phosphorous can reduce the effectiveness of the catalytic converters. But again, if your motor is built right, you get minimal blowby and it's not a concern. They have to put that label on due to legal verbage associated with the whole cat battle between the epa, automanufacturers, warranties for cats etc.
Ok thanks, that's what I wanted to make sure of. Just like headers and ORY's are "for off road use only" as well (no cats to worry about for me).

By the way I believe you were the one that posted about their giveaway a while back, so thanks for that!
Old 10-24-2012, 09:13 PM
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Where would one buy this CAM2 oil?
Old 10-25-2012, 07:40 AM
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Are any of these higher zinc oils offered in non-synthetic versions? I've got about 500 miles on my new 408 and was told not to use any synthetic for 3-5k miles.
Old 10-25-2012, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Jefro6996
Are any of these higher zinc oils offered in non-synthetic versions? I've got about 500 miles on my new 408 and was told not to use any synthetic for 3-5k miles.
CAM2 does offer full synthetic, blend, and conventional oils.

As for where to find it, I don't want to get in trouble for promoting a non-sponsor, so just google it or PM me and I can help you out.
Old 10-25-2012, 08:24 AM
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What about mobil 1 synthetic?
Old 10-25-2012, 11:07 AM
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thanks for in info on royal purple oil. will be getting vr1 now since i can get it easier. What about the Valoline Racing oil? it not the vr1 oil its a speial order oil.i had a instructor who said that is is a really good oil. he said there was a couple aditives in it that where really good. cant remember what additives they were but he ran it in his blown sb drag car and in his truck.
Old 10-25-2012, 11:14 AM
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Been running Shell Rotella 15w40 for 5+ years, zero issues. I do change frequently though, mileage wise. Rotella was what forcedinductions.com and Comp Cams was recommending for all of their high HP street cars at one time and it seems to be okay for me.
Old 10-25-2012, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by oneoverwrx
Any idea how rotella 15w40 does. I have ran it in basically everything. My Wrx to 8800rpm at 600awhp, both my d series and b series setups to 9500+ and around 500whp, my ls1
Last year and my 4.8 this year. If I need to switch I will but I always heard it has the most additives. I also change it every 2-3 track outings(about every 2 weeks). Might be a little excessive but it's cheap enough to do.
I would like to know this too. That's what I am running in my car. Oil pressure is ridiculously high though, 60+ at all times. How much does it differ from the 5w40 T6 Rotella?
Old 10-25-2012, 11:48 AM
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my mind is blown. i have been using mobil1 syn in my ls1 since i bought the car(14k) ago. did heads n cam and spun a bearing 4k later. rotella is all im gonna use now.

i know our engines are "supposed to take" 5w30 but im sure 5w40 will be fine.

now i know. and ill spread the knowledge
Old 10-25-2012, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Boosted Firehawk
What about mobil 1 synthetic?
The mobil 1 nowdays, is not what it used to be. read the articles I posted in the first post, and you can see some test results.
Old 10-25-2012, 12:39 PM
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Dont you think a 40 weight is a little thick? Doesnt Joe Gibbs make LS30 oil wonder if thats worth anything?
Old 10-25-2012, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Zmg00camaross
Dont you think a 40 weight is a little thick? Doesnt Joe Gibbs make LS30 oil wonder if thats worth anything?
What's the downside to running a little heavier weight oil? Slightly less horsepower? Personally, and from a couple different engine builders I've talked to, the last thing you want is your oil layer to break down. If the oil is too thin, under high horsepower and heat, it can shear, and now you lose all protection.

I run 20w50 in my T/A.
Old 10-25-2012, 02:13 PM
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Valvoline VR1 20/50 is my top choice for readily available oil, then Rotella T. Although I will not use Rotella on a flat tappet car, Gibbs or VR1 at a min.
Old 10-25-2012, 02:20 PM
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What about amsoil 20/50 premium with zinc? Any idea on its zinc content? It seemed to be the cheapest I could find when I changed over.
Old 10-25-2012, 03:50 PM
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been using VR1 20/50 for the longest time.
Old 10-25-2012, 04:11 PM
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Just thought it raise oil temps and not get to "crucial parts on time" cuz of its thicker viscosity? But idk.
Old 10-25-2012, 05:03 PM
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Also running Rotella 15w40 here. My engine builder uses it in his motor and has been using it in every engine he has built the past few years with zero issues. After my last motor spun a bearing (had castrol 5w30 in it) i did alot of reading up on oil and after talking to him and a few others that praised rotella i decided to run that in the new motor.
Old 10-26-2012, 09:09 PM
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Ive always have used valvoline 20w50 in my ls cars. My dd truck 360k original miles. Has 60-70psi. My ls1 has 168k miles, cam,bolt ons,stock lifters, i spin 7000rpm all the time, stock internals. Zero problems.
Ive done many,many cam installs in ls motors since 00. Still havent had a lifter or cam failure. Also use 20w50 in the turbo builds ive put out.
Good info links in this thread
Old 10-26-2012, 10:58 PM
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Using the Rotella 20w40 synthetic in mine. It's sold at walmart by the gallon for like $21. There was another post a few months back asking who used it and it got a LOT of votes from the turbo guys. I also see close to 60psi so glad i'm not the only one lol How much is too much pressure anyway?


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