You can kinda see my setup here. Fronts and backs go to a block under the intake elbow then to the overflow

 

The line would go up in a perfect world, or an expansion tank would be good. The thing that works about going down is keeping all 4 head lines going up into the collection block, once it is in the single line velocity of flow can carry the air down. That is the reason you should keep the 4 lines heading up, because flow down them is slow because of exit volume out the single line. These lines are not used for cooling, they are keeping air pockets out of the head. Air pockets will insulate the combustion chamber and cause localized hot spots that can lead to major problems.

Kurt

 

Were can i buy one of those Kurt Urban kit? How much the cost?

 

http://www.kurturbanperformance.com/water-line-adapters.html

$80

 

Holy smokes! You can get them for half that price... Or a bit less.

 

The whole kit is available with a few different options depending on your intake. That link gets you on the sight, all the stuffs available.

Kurt

 

I will say the kit is a decent deal. Especially for people that want to take the guess work out of it, but the adapters alone aren't in my opinion.

 

I got my head blocks that are tapped for 1/8" npt for only $7 ea. Prob gonna finish it off with some 1/4" brake line for cheap and have all together $50 invested. Mine then gets plumbed into my top radiator line on a 45* angle to help "suck" it out and prevent back purge....

 

I did mine as you see here below. I made the simple bracket holding the block on the intake. The other thing that I did of note is the upper/outlet fitting on the block I changed to a -6AN and ran that hose to the stock radiator fitting below the filler neck just like the original was. The cool thing is the -6 hose fits exactly like stock did on the radiator and I used the stock hose clamp as it fit perfectly too.