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L33 Alum 5.3 users

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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 11:37 AM
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Default L33 Alum 5.3 users

Hey folks,

This should be simple.

These were made from 05-07.

Are they 24 tooth or 58 tooth crank triggers?
And if they can be either, how to tell from the outside?

Thanks

Ron
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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 11:48 AM
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The 05-07 truck classic L33 is 24 tooth.
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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 12:52 PM
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Thanks Stock. I'm new to the forced induction section here, but not to the LS stuff.

Seriously contemplating replacing the rat motor in my Nova with a turbo 5.3 setup, and that is good to know so I can find a PCM etc. Will be pretty much the same as my Vette. If I'm correct, I can even have my VIN programmed into one, save me HPT credits.

My Nova ia fast, but not much of a car I can hop in and drive places if you know what I mean.

BTW....I have heard of your truck!

Thanks again,

Ron
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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 06:35 PM
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24x=black crank sensor
58x=tan crank sensor

L33 FTMFW, best sbe out there.
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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 09:30 PM
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Ha, you will have to decipher FTMFW for me, I'm old.
So, Your car inspired me, along with Chevy406 who I met on the Corvette forum, along with the fun I'm having tuning my C5.
All L33 are 24x as Stock48 said?

BTW, here is my Nova.



Ron
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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 09:47 PM
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For the mother f'in win.

Yes sir, 24x, good luck with your Nova, nice color.
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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 10:11 PM
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Ah.....got it.

And thanks, will be a fun winter project. I need to locate the L33 first.....doesn't seem to be any local.

BTW, I have a lot of relatives in Minneapolis, sadly, it's been years since I've been there.

Ron
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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by LS1NOVA
24x=black crank sensor
58x=tan crank sensor

L33 FTMFW, best sbe out there.
How far can the motor be taken as far as bore? I bought one with a crank locally (just block) for 200$ cause I figured it was a decent deal..
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 05:55 AM
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I guess it depends on how thin you want to make the walls. They are .240 thick sleeves. Personally I left them as they were and if the pistons should blow I would only take as much off as needed and throw pistons back in it. I like having thick sleeves personally.
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 11:10 AM
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My L33 is 24x also. I paid $650 shipped for a shorblock that ran. Not the best deal.... but only L33 I could find at the time.
'69 Chevelle turbo 5.3 project being worked on.

correction... mine was an LH6 found in a 2005+ Trailblazer.

Last edited by gnx7; Apr 17, 2013 at 02:33 AM.
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 02:49 AM
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I managed to find one also, complete with 136K for a bit over a grand. Must be getting harder to find only being made for 3 years.
I pick it up on Wed afternoon.
I just hope it was well maintained, but LKQ tells me the compression was 200-210 in all holes.

Ron
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 03:09 AM
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136K is perfect for boost
That isn't a bad price I have never seen the engines as cheap as ppl claim. If I get any ls engine for under a grand it's usually in rough shape, and for 500 down they are just cores with spun rods etc. mid 100K iron lq4 goes for 15~1600 0ut here. Iron 5.3 around 1000. Any alum blocks are 2K +.
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 06:45 AM
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^^^ Like the Nova.

OP another option for an aluminum 5.3 is the LM4. Not quite as good as the l33's but a good lightweight option over the iron LM7. These were found in Trailblazer EXT's and are 24t reluctors. Oh and they can be found a good bit cheaper than the L33.
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by stock48
136K is perfect for boost
That isn't a bad price I have never seen the engines as cheap as ppl claim. If I get any ls engine for under a grand it's usually in rough shape, and for 500 down they are just cores with spun rods etc. mid 100K iron lq4 goes for 15~1600 0ut here. Iron 5.3 around 1000. Any alum blocks are 2K +.
You guys should look in Missouri. I just purchased an L33 that runs from a salvage yard. The asking price was $850 and I just showed up with a little less cash and they took it. They have a LM7 right now for $450. There is another 6.0 for $840 in Jackson, Mo with about a 160,000 miles. Most LM7s go for $500 complete in my area. Most 6.0's go for $850-$1,000
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Wicked69
Most LM7s go for $500 complete in my area. Most 6.0's go for $850-$1,000
About the same here, sometimes even less for the 5.3's, all running engines. I've had 28 now (4.8, 5.3, 6.0 all iron truck engines) and sold a little over half of them which paid for the remaining (FREE). Just gotta be in the right place at the right time. I got 8 5.3's and 1 4.8 all complete with acc's for $266 out the door, bought all they had, i felt dumb not to. Yeah, somebody messed up on that deal.
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by BMF_Racing
About the same here, sometimes even less for the 5.3's, all running engines. I've had 28 now (4.8, 5.3, 6.0 all iron truck engines) and sold a little over half of them which paid for the remaining (FREE). Just gotta be in the right place at the right time. I got 8 5.3's and 1 4.8 all complete with acc's for $266 out the door, bought all they had, i felt dumb not to. Yeah, somebody messed up on that deal.
Yeah no kidding they messed up. I just run what ever is available.
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Wicked69
You guys should look in Missouri. I just purchased an L33 that runs from a salvage yard. The asking price was $850 and I just showed up with a little less cash and they took it. They have a LM7 right now for $450. There is another 6.0 for $840 in Jackson, Mo with about a 160,000 miles. Most LM7s go for $500 complete in my area. Most 6.0's go for $850-$1,000
Yea prob so. We get screwed out here on the west coast. I picked up an alum L76 with 230k the other day with a broken piston for $600.00. But that is about the best deal I have stumbled across.
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 07:31 PM
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I just picked up an lm7 the other day here in Missouri for 150. Has everything except for the accessories. Not sure if it was a good deal or not.
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Old Apr 19, 2013 | 06:09 PM
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Turned out the price was $935. So no complaints. Clean under the valve covers, had a napa gold oil filter, GM irridium spark plugs (.045" gap) and GM plug wires. So just little clues that it was well maintained. Unless GM puts anti sieze on the plugs, they were changed by a dealer.

I think I done good.



A little cleaning and part removal:



Rather exciting, although I don't plan to do the work until winter.....

Ron
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Old Apr 19, 2013 | 06:18 PM
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what is the difference in shortblocks between an LM4 and L33?

mine had flat top pistons and was supposedly from a Trailblazer.
alum block, 24x wheel
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