What oil are you guys running in your turbo cars??
04-23-2013, 02:19 AM
#21
TECH Apprentice
Join Date: Mar 2012
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I used to think the same way, this will make you think otherwise.
http://www.speedtalk.com/forum/viewt...hp?f=1&t=34926
http://www.speedtalk.com/forum/viewt...hp?f=1&t=34926
04-23-2013, 06:16 AM
#22
Launching!
Join Date: Jun 2005
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Just a note on that article that keeps popping up everywhere....
Mobil-1 5W-30 is listed as the #5 oil with 105,875 psi.
I run Summit Racing oil in the 400 SBC in one of my cars, started at 500 miles on the newly built engine and change it every 2000 miles (yearly), and send a sample off for analysis.
Summit Racing 10W-40 is listed at #77 on that list with 59,483 psi.
I searched the bitog forums for M1 analyses and my reports on an antiquated design engine that is practically still breaking in (Blackstone says at my mileage wear materials are still washing out) show similar iron and in a lot of cases BETTER aluminum and bearing material metal wear than fully broken in LS engines running M1, and way better bearing indicators than low mileage LS engines. Searched it for T6 analyses (#65) and see similar results with T6 showing better wear metals than M1. Since Summit no longer carries that oil I'm running T6 in that car, my SFT 327, and my 2002.
So, take that report with a grain of salt. YMMV.
Mobil-1 5W-30 is listed as the #5 oil with 105,875 psi.
I run Summit Racing oil in the 400 SBC in one of my cars, started at 500 miles on the newly built engine and change it every 2000 miles (yearly), and send a sample off for analysis.
Summit Racing 10W-40 is listed at #77 on that list with 59,483 psi.
I searched the bitog forums for M1 analyses and my reports on an antiquated design engine that is practically still breaking in (Blackstone says at my mileage wear materials are still washing out) show similar iron and in a lot of cases BETTER aluminum and bearing material metal wear than fully broken in LS engines running M1, and way better bearing indicators than low mileage LS engines. Searched it for T6 analyses (#65) and see similar results with T6 showing better wear metals than M1. Since Summit no longer carries that oil I'm running T6 in that car, my SFT 327, and my 2002.
So, take that report with a grain of salt. YMMV.
04-23-2013, 06:21 AM
#23
Only thing I really got from it was 1) Don't add **** to your oil (people should already know that), and 2) Shear strengths of different oils.
I'm not seeing anything bad about the Rotella T6. That little "mini" study or whatever the hell it is did NOTHING to address thermal breakdown, heat cycling, or any of the other factors that go into choosing an oil.
Rotella has enough ZDDP to help protect the valvetrain, it's stable even when overheated, and was DESIGNED for high-heat, high pressure, ect, ect. AND, it's CHEAP and easily found... Plus you can dick with people and tell them you have "diesel oil"
I'm not seeing anything bad about the Rotella T6. That little "mini" study or whatever the hell it is did NOTHING to address thermal breakdown, heat cycling, or any of the other factors that go into choosing an oil.
Rotella has enough ZDDP to help protect the valvetrain, it's stable even when overheated, and was DESIGNED for high-heat, high pressure, ect, ect. AND, it's CHEAP and easily found... Plus you can dick with people and tell them you have "diesel oil"
04-23-2013, 10:22 AM
#27
wow, I thought syn held up better in high heat applications. no doubt they know what they are talking about but this is the first time hearing that.
05-08-2013, 06:23 PM
#34
My water temps are slightly lower across all driving conditions, 2-5 degrees lower. However my oil temps (read from the pan) are 5-10 degrees higher. Also notice that oil temps rise a lot faster, before there would be times I thought the gauage wasn't working because it didn't move for a while, now they climb right up.
So is the oil absorbing some of the heat and making the engine run cooler, seems that way.
