MY Real Street 275 build
08-20-2013, 10:28 AM
#24
TECH Fanatic
Glad to see your project get going man. Good to see a project going down with budget in mind but still so much detail. And that cam, seems like a monster. 
I love it. What are your goals for times or is there really any? Fast Fast and Faster!!!!???
I love it. What are your goals for times or is there really any? Fast Fast and Faster!!!!???
08-20-2013, 10:51 AM
#25
Yea yea yea, I knew you'd be all over this soon enough. No point in talking about nothing when I don't have any pictures to put up!
Thanks buddy, you get that turbo suburban going yet? That little backwards reverse cam should work great for towing.
I honestly don't care or have an estimate/goal for power at the wheels. I will say that the fastest car in the class we race in made 1006/920 to the tires through a power glide. So maybe 900-1000rwhp?
Thanks! Fun, sometimes...pain in the you know what...always! haha
Thanks! Updates are coming after lunch today. Just need to take some more pictures.
Matt has been really working hard on my car and it really is awesome having some of your best friends to work with and help you with your car. I work with the best crew of guys a man could ask for. We all do one or two things well and we all help each other out when it's needed.
That's what makes Tick Performance what it is, not just what you hear about on the internet all the time.
Just a bunch of good ol' boys that like beating up on Fords!
Thanks Stephen. Budget was certainly a huge factor in this build. I wanted to use as many stock parts as possible, but make sure every last detail was taken care of.
I've planned this build out in my head now for almost 3 years and it's changed course a few times, but it's what I wanted. I kinda wish I had done 5" down pipe all the way to the fenders and not necked it down into 4". I hope it doesn't bite me at a later date in terms of post turbine drive pressure.
I also have thought about trying an A2W intercooler if this non intercooled deal becomes too hard to dial in a tune up on.
As far as E.T. the class record at this point and time is 5.16@134. I'm setting my goal at 5.30 for now. I feel if I can get it to run consistent 5.20's low 5.30's it will be a contender. This is also going to be a stepping stone into faster classes at a later date. Which is also the reason for the 25.5 cage as well.
Not only that, but the car will be worth a LOT more money with a 25.5 certified cage in it. Just the cage work alone if I were to have a reputable fabricator like Biggun do it would cost 4-5 thousand dollars. Right now the materials cost for tubing is going to be around 500-525 dollars.
No point in talking about nothing when I don't have any pictures to put up!
I honestly don't care or have an estimate/goal for power at the wheels. I will say that the fastest car in the class we race in made 1006/920 to the tires through a power glide. So maybe 900-1000rwhp?
Thanks! Fun, sometimes...pain in the you know what...always! haha
Thanks! Updates are coming after lunch today. Just need to take some more pictures.
Matt has been really working hard on my car and it really is awesome having some of your best friends to work with and help you with your car. I work with the best crew of guys a man could ask for. We all do one or two things well and we all help each other out when it's needed.
That's what makes Tick Performance what it is, not just what you hear about on the internet all the time.
Just a bunch of good ol' boys that like beating up on Fords!
I've planned this build out in my head now for almost 3 years and it's changed course a few times, but it's what I wanted. I kinda wish I had done 5" down pipe all the way to the fenders and not necked it down into 4". I hope it doesn't bite me at a later date in terms of post turbine drive pressure.
I also have thought about trying an A2W intercooler if this non intercooled deal becomes too hard to dial in a tune up on.
As far as E.T. the class record at this point and time is 5.16@134. I'm setting my goal at 5.30 for now. I feel if I can get it to run consistent 5.20's low 5.30's it will be a contender. This is also going to be a stepping stone into faster classes at a later date. Which is also the reason for the 25.5 cage as well.
Not only that, but the car will be worth a LOT more money with a 25.5 certified cage in it. Just the cage work alone if I were to have a reputable fabricator like Biggun do it would cost 4-5 thousand dollars. Right now the materials cost for tubing is going to be around 500-525 dollars.
08-20-2013, 11:45 AM
#27
Been waiting for this thread! Very cool Martin, it was a lot of fun building the kit, and we are VERY happy to be part of it! Be sure to let us know if you ever need anything else and we will be more than happy to help out!
Jon
Jon
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08-20-2013, 12:01 PM
#28
That's just the name of the game! You got to pay to play!
OK more updates! Yes we're rolling along quickly in the Tick Performance shop!
Got all of my Autometer Ultra Lite gauges in to match my Ultra Lite II 5" tach. We're going to put the 5" tach right in the middle of the old gauge cluster and the 5" tach will go above it or somewhere in my line of sight. Then the rest of the gauges like the voltmeter, oil pressure, water temp, boost, trans temp and fuel level will be fitted where they can be fitted. Probably will end up with the Trans Temp and boost under or above the ARC switch panel in the dash panel where the HVAC controls used to be.
I also got my Grant steering wheel in. It's D-shaped and feel great. Love the grip and very glad I went with this wheel. We will put two push buttons on each side of the steering wheel on "phone cords". One will be for the trans brake and one will be for the pulse leash "bump box". This will allow me to pull up to the beams and light the first beam easily without worrying about if the brakes will hold or inconsistent staging. Once the first beam is lit I'll press and hold the trans brake button and go 100% WOT. Once the engine comes up on the two step I'll still hold the trans brake button down, but I'll then press the pulse leash "bump" button which will pulse the trans brake solenoid and allow the car to "bump" into the second beam. Once the car is in the second beam all I have to do is release the trans brake button when the amber lights drop.
And here is what the car looks like now!
All the carpet has been taken out and all wiring as well. Cage mock-up has started today as well as putting the fuel tank back in.
Once again I have to take the time to thank Matt our shop foreman for doing all the work so far on the car and letting me get in the way and helping where I can when I can. Without his guidance and expertise this would not be happening. Can't thank him enough and my boss Jonathan for letting him work on it during shop hours.
Figured I'd throw in a wheelie picture for good measure...she's no stranger to the rear bumper.
OK more updates! Yes we're rolling along quickly in the Tick Performance shop!
Got all of my Autometer Ultra Lite gauges in to match my Ultra Lite II 5" tach. We're going to put the 5" tach right in the middle of the old gauge cluster and the 5" tach will go above it or somewhere in my line of sight. Then the rest of the gauges like the voltmeter, oil pressure, water temp, boost, trans temp and fuel level will be fitted where they can be fitted. Probably will end up with the Trans Temp and boost under or above the ARC switch panel in the dash panel where the HVAC controls used to be.
I also got my Grant steering wheel in. It's D-shaped and feel great. Love the grip and very glad I went with this wheel. We will put two push buttons on each side of the steering wheel on "phone cords". One will be for the trans brake and one will be for the pulse leash "bump box". This will allow me to pull up to the beams and light the first beam easily without worrying about if the brakes will hold or inconsistent staging. Once the first beam is lit I'll press and hold the trans brake button and go 100% WOT. Once the engine comes up on the two step I'll still hold the trans brake button down, but I'll then press the pulse leash "bump" button which will pulse the trans brake solenoid and allow the car to "bump" into the second beam. Once the car is in the second beam all I have to do is release the trans brake button when the amber lights drop.
And here is what the car looks like now!
All the carpet has been taken out and all wiring as well. Cage mock-up has started today as well as putting the fuel tank back in.
Once again I have to take the time to thank Matt our shop foreman for doing all the work so far on the car and letting me get in the way and helping where I can when I can. Without his guidance and expertise this would not be happening. Can't thank him enough and my boss Jonathan for letting him work on it during shop hours.
Figured I'd throw in a wheelie picture for good measure...she's no stranger to the rear bumper.
Last edited by Sales@Tick; 08-20-2013 at 02:35 PM.
08-20-2013, 12:01 PM
#29
Here are some pictures during fabrication of the turbo kit for Martin!
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Featuring 6 different turbo kits for your F-body!
Check us out on Facebook at: www.facebook.com/HuronSpeed
08-20-2013, 01:15 PM
#33
If it weren't for Jon planting the idea in my head to do this, you guys would be looking at a 416 c.i. nitrous car build and this thread would not be in this section LOL!
If you want a turbo kit done for it, the man you need to talk to has already posted in this thread. One of the best in the business no doubt.
Yours isn't too shabby either Stephen!
Steve, glad to have you along!
08-20-2013, 04:21 PM
#35
I don't know about super nice build as there are a lot nicer looking cars out there than mine, but thank you for the kind words.
I may have some more updates this evening as Matt got the halo bent up and mocked into place, but it hasn't been tack welded yet.
Once it's tacked in I'll take some pictures.
I may have some more updates this evening as Matt got the halo bent up and mocked into place, but it hasn't been tack welded yet.
Once it's tacked in I'll take some pictures.
08-20-2013, 07:22 PM
#40
Looks like a great start! I actually have a bolt in burkhart chassis steering column with quick disconnect steering wheel sitting around, make you a good deal! The hub can be taken off the steering wheel if you want to use the D shaped wheel you already have. One thing also, that touch switch panel... will that be user friendly in a set of driving gloves?
The column.... been powder coated black.
The column.... been powder coated black.
