Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

I got mine from Bob@AEI Inc.

greenvortec97

iTrader: (1)

Hey....









Shut up, get back to work on that damn car

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

Engine bay wiring is almost done. Then have to connect the dots from the engine bay wiring to the switch panels and then wire up the power adder controls for the Fast.

V-seriesTech

iTrader: (5)

nice.

JAX04

iTrader: (17)

Making passes this season?

boss79z

iTrader: (1)

Looks great! What valve covers are those?

Blackpanther99

iTrader: (8)

All that wiring looks fun >_< looking good.

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

Hoping to have the car at No Mercy in September. Probably be the first race the car sees. It should be running in 2 weeks.

If I don't get at least 3-4 weeks testing in before it's time to go to SGMP and it's not running at least 5.30's, I'm not taking the car. No point.

The class has gotten so fast that the motor I originally built for Real Street is going to have to be extensively modified to run up front in Ultra Street.

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

What is that on the center of the motor plate? It looks likes boost line in sheathing, just can't tell.

a98ws6

iTrader: (48)

You could run x235/8.5 class?

Reject

iTrader: (24)

looks good as always

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

Been there done that. That is why it is tough to run in the big money classes.

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

Vacuum block. Waste gate reference lines are run to the block and wrapped in DEI heat sheathing.
Hell that class is just as fast as Ultimate/Ultra. Well, it may not be quite as fast due to the tire, but it takes just as much engine and HP.
First thing that has to go is the Victor Junior intake. Going to swap a Super Victor on there out of the box first. Note the gains and then have it ported.

Engine is going to be pulled out over the winter and I haven't quite decided what I'm going to do yet.

It will be getting shaft rockers, larger push rods, solid lifters and a solid cam. I want to o-ring the block, but I don't want to put a lot of money in these heads. If our machinist can o-ring the block and put a receiver groove in the head for less than 500 dollars I'll do it. Thought about 1/2" studs as well, but the castings are probably going to be my limit and not the clamping force of the studs.

1/2" studs are expensive so I don't want to put money into something when I should of put it into something different all together.

a98ws6

iTrader: (48)

Looking at your build i see no reason your car would not run low 5's even on a 8.5...that would compete with most 8.5 classes.

93camaro_zzz

iTrader: (13)

Yeah I wish I would have had my motor done with 1/2" studs when I ordered it from the get go.

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

It has to run at least 138mph to be competitive. That shows the power it needs to run the number.

The main problem is the rods, crank, and heads I chose were not destined for 1300hp at the crank. I was only planning on 1050 maybe 1100hp at the crank before to run in the local Real Street class back when a 5.30-5.40@130-132 was competitive.

Now I have to run 4.90-5.0@138-140mph and push all the parts I bought to the edge of breaking to be competitive.

It needs new rods, crank and cylinder heads something bad. I'm going to attempt to make do with what I have and see how it pans out.

a98ws6

iTrader: (48)

Well good luck Martin. Im in the same boat honestly. I was building for the 8.5 class we here (MW8.5RA) but i dont think i can compete with my weight or power. Fastest passes i think is a 5.20, but low 30's will go rounds and win. Last race the #1 qualifier was a 5.32 and the #16 was in the 50's i believe. Close racing.
I have a iron 370 solid roller w/TFS 235's, Holley Hi-Ram, S480 ET-R HO, forged rods and pistons, polished stock crank, and 1/2" studs/o-ringed. Some weight out but not like yours and i dont got half of the nice parts you got. Guess i will be a fast street car. Lol

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

You should have no problem running that number. I was just out running 5.31 at 134mph at 18psi and 3385lbs. That's 900rwhp.

These classes suck. They will always step up no matter what rules are put on them.

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

Shoot, you already have a better motor than I do! If you have 1/2" studs, solid roller, aftermarket heads and o-ringed block that set-up if the o-ring was done correctly should hold up to 1600hp IMO. Obviously your crank wouldn't, but neither would mine.

I wish I had done the 1/2" studs at the very least while the motor as going together. At the time I just didn't feel it was necessary to run 5.30's@131-132.


That makes me feel better hearing that Don. I wonder what that pass would of looked like if your car weighed what mine will. 5.25-5.27@135 would be my guess @ 3200#.

The main problem I have was the local class I built the car for changed to an entirely different rule set to follow/mimic Ultra Street.

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)