MY Real Street 275 build
09-23-2014, 10:00 AM
#722
Track was better than anyone could of asked for including myself. I had a boost curve in it that if we hadn't had the issues we did should of easily gone 5.teens.
The FAST XFI ignition gods were having none of it though.
We're encountering a severe noise interference issue. It started doing it as soon as I would click high gear. The RPM trace on the log stops recording around 6000rpm in low gear and flat lines even though the engine continues to rev to the shift point of 7200-7300rpm. When I hit high gear it's like someone pulled the power cord on a vacuum cleaner and my engine feels like it skips and then stops, but it never cuts off.
People on the track and from our shop said it would shoot a fireball or flame out of the exhaust pipe when it would do that as well like it was backfiring.
We think it's dropping the crank/cam signal and causing it to do that. It started off like I said just doing it on the high gear shift when the engine really gets under load. Then it started doing it right off the starting line when I tried to throw more at it early in the run.
We're going to attempt to separate the coil harness from the cam/crank harness in the main wiring harness. I guess FAST felt it was a good idea to route all of those wires in one harness. So if you want to separate them you have to cut apart the harness just to move those wires away from each other. Once we have them moved away from each other we're going to shield them. We're also going to run a large gauge ground from both cylinder heads back to the battery.
Hope this fixes it, but no SGMP this year for us unfortunately. I can't justify spending the money to go down there with a car that doesn't run right.
Best pass Saturday was 5.97@106 lifting at the 330'. This was on 15-16psi boost and it didn't hit 15-16psi boost until 6200-6400rpm in low gear.
The FAST XFI ignition gods were having none of it though.
We're encountering a severe noise interference issue. It started doing it as soon as I would click high gear. The RPM trace on the log stops recording around 6000rpm in low gear and flat lines even though the engine continues to rev to the shift point of 7200-7300rpm. When I hit high gear it's like someone pulled the power cord on a vacuum cleaner and my engine feels like it skips and then stops, but it never cuts off.
People on the track and from our shop said it would shoot a fireball or flame out of the exhaust pipe when it would do that as well like it was backfiring.
We think it's dropping the crank/cam signal and causing it to do that. It started off like I said just doing it on the high gear shift when the engine really gets under load. Then it started doing it right off the starting line when I tried to throw more at it early in the run.
We're going to attempt to separate the coil harness from the cam/crank harness in the main wiring harness. I guess FAST felt it was a good idea to route all of those wires in one harness. So if you want to separate them you have to cut apart the harness just to move those wires away from each other. Once we have them moved away from each other we're going to shield them. We're also going to run a large gauge ground from both cylinder heads back to the battery.
Hope this fixes it, but no SGMP this year for us unfortunately. I can't justify spending the money to go down there with a car that doesn't run right.
Best pass Saturday was 5.97@106 lifting at the 330'. This was on 15-16psi boost and it didn't hit 15-16psi boost until 6200-6400rpm in low gear.
09-23-2014, 11:47 AM
#726
The crank sensor wire is shielded part of the way, but not all the way. Cam sensor wire is shielded partly as well, but not all of the way.
Talked to Fast this morning and when they sent my system out they were working on a new firmware update for XFI 2.0. Supposedly there could be an issue with the firmware I have now and the ignition controller I'm using from FAST. They think that it may be interfering with spark/cam/crank signals and causing energy in the ignition system to be generated when it's not supposed to. Thus causing the ECU and ignition to freak out and what might of been causing the loss of sync under load and high RPM.
If the ignition controller is getting a bad signal and telling it to fire when it shouldn't(generate energy when it shouldn't) it could be causing the ignition system to generate a signal/interference that could be disrupting the crank/cam/spark signals.
They are going to send me new firmware and software updates while we work on the new ground and making a timing pointer so we can be 100% sure we have correct timing values.
09-23-2014, 08:54 PM
#727
Talked to Fast this morning and when they sent my system out they were working on a new firmware update for XFI 2.0. Supposedly there could be an issue with the firmware I have now and the ignition controller I'm using from FAST. They think that it may be interfering with spark/cam/crank signals and causing energy in the ignition system to be generated when it's not supposed to. Thus causing the ECU and ignition to freak out and what might of been causing the loss of sync under load and high RPM.
If the ignition controller is getting a bad signal and telling it to fire when it shouldn't(generate energy when it shouldn't) it could be causing the ignition system to generate a signal/interference that could be disrupting the crank/cam/spark signals.
They are going to send me new firmware and software updates while we work on the new ground and making a timing pointer so we can be 100% sure we have correct timing values.
09-25-2014, 07:31 PM
#728
Teching In
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I just finished reading this whole thread over the past few weeks and first off I wanted to say thank you. Me and my dad are planning on starting a 3rd gen build here soon and this thread has taught me alot of helpful stuff. On another note you and your guys got a killer build going on over there and I dont think I am speaking for myself when I say I cant wait to see this thing making proper full power passes. I will be keeping up with the rest of this build for sure.
09-26-2014, 04:33 PM
#730
Grounds are critical in preventing EMI (electro magnetic interference) or RFI (radio frequency interference).
Metallic parts can pick up this energy and rebroadcast it. To prevent this the parts must be grounded. This is one of the reasons car manufacturers have lots of grounds.
On my builds I like to have grounds to the block, heads, & intake manifold. I don't like to depend on the engine mounts, head bolts, & intake bolts to provide my grounds. If my ECM or ignition box are mounted on a panel I make sure it has a ground strap. It also doesn't hurt to ground the body of the ECM & ignition box.
Good luck
Craig
Metallic parts can pick up this energy and rebroadcast it. To prevent this the parts must be grounded. This is one of the reasons car manufacturers have lots of grounds.
On my builds I like to have grounds to the block, heads, & intake manifold. I don't like to depend on the engine mounts, head bolts, & intake bolts to provide my grounds. If my ECM or ignition box are mounted on a panel I make sure it has a ground strap. It also doesn't hurt to ground the body of the ECM & ignition box.
Good luck
Craig
09-26-2014, 04:40 PM
#731
I like it so far, but it needs an aftermarket case. Really worried I'm going to bust the stock case before I can afford to upgrade it.
Thank you very much for the kind words!
Craig,
We did the ground to the battery from the heads and we fabricated some brackets to hold the main wiring harness a lot further away from the coils. On top of that we shielded the crank and cam wires and grounded the shielding to the heads as well.
It seems to of fixed the issue from what we can tell messing around with it at the shop and we have the bump box functioning 100% correctly now.
Off to the track we go!
I just finished reading this whole thread over the past few weeks and first off I wanted to say thank you. Me and my dad are planning on starting a 3rd gen build here soon and this thread has taught me alot of helpful stuff. On another note you and your guys got a killer build going on over there and I dont think I am speaking for myself when I say I cant wait to see this thing making proper full power passes. I will be keeping up with the rest of this build for sure.
Grounds are critical in preventing EMI (electro magnetic interference) or RFI (radio frequency interference).
Metallic parts can pick up this energy and rebroadcast it. To prevent this the parts must be grounded. This is one of the reasons car manufacturers have lots of grounds.
On my builds I like to have grounds to the block, heads, & intake manifold. I don't like to depend on the engine mounts, head bolts, & intake bolts to provide my grounds. If my ECM or ignition box are mounted on a panel I make sure it has a ground strap. It also doesn't hurt to ground the body of the ECM & ignition box.
Good luck
Craig
Metallic parts can pick up this energy and rebroadcast it. To prevent this the parts must be grounded. This is one of the reasons car manufacturers have lots of grounds.
On my builds I like to have grounds to the block, heads, & intake manifold. I don't like to depend on the engine mounts, head bolts, & intake bolts to provide my grounds. If my ECM or ignition box are mounted on a panel I make sure it has a ground strap. It also doesn't hurt to ground the body of the ECM & ignition box.
Good luck
Craig
We did the ground to the battery from the heads and we fabricated some brackets to hold the main wiring harness a lot further away from the coils. On top of that we shielded the crank and cam wires and grounded the shielding to the heads as well.
It seems to of fixed the issue from what we can tell messing around with it at the shop and we have the bump box functioning 100% correctly now.
Off to the track we go!
09-26-2014, 05:37 PM
#732
Are you overly concerned about tire shake? I'm planning on an ATI or a Reid case myself, but that's only because I don't like the idea of running a blanket while cruising (and I don't want to keep removing/installing one), and tunnel space is a premium.
09-27-2014, 11:46 PM
#735
Update on the car, I think we have the ignition issues beat at least for now. Hopefully it doesn't come back at a later date when we're putting more power to it than we are now.
Took it to a local track that is known to not be very radial friendly knowing it wouldn't hold anything spectacular. Creep function works beautifully now. I dialed it in and got it nice and smooth. Had it on 17psi and on the first pass it didn't hit 17psi until 3 seconds into the run and went 5.85@124. I thought I saw the shift light, but I guess I didn't because the log showed that I shifted at 6050rpm and RPM dropped to 5700 on the shift. Woops. Crossed the stripe at 6200 in high gear.
Second pass I sped the boost ramp up and it hit 17psi in 2.4 seconds. Shifted at 7500 and it went 5.65@126.5. Converter is stupid tight dropping to 5800 on the shift extension and crossing at 6200. 1.81% converter slip right now, lol.
I had been leaving at 3600rpm@7psi so I turned it up to 3750 on the last pass and it made 7.5-8.0psi. Left the boost ramp alone and just added what should of been another 3-4psi to the controller where I had it "all in" on the time based ramp. It left nicely and planted the tires, but it responded to the change a little more aggressively then I had expected and spun about 40-50' out.
I have 3 degrees less timing in it now to be safe on 17psi than it had on the dyno making 25psi since we were reading plugs and knew what it wanted. That will come soon on the track. The tune is mid 11 AFR and is baby soft IMO.
Hopefully we can get it somewhere soon with a good surface and pour the coals to it. The 5.65 pass felt great, and I can't get over how easy it is to drive this car. With how tight the converter is and the high first gear ratio it is like driving Miss Daisy to the 330'. It comes alive around 6000rpm in low gear and pulls hard to the shift. Then drops 1700rpm on the shift and chugs along in high gear only gaining 400rpm before the stripe.
I can't wait to turn it up and get it to come alive. I think good things are on the horizon for the car if it stays together and hooks well.
09-28-2014, 06:15 PM
#737
It gained 20-30hp per degree of timing we added on the dyno. Knowing how low on timing it is right now I feel really good that this car is going to fly.
The way my boost controller works is like a progressive nitrous controller. I have 50psi set at the c02 regulator currently but only putting 50% of that to the wastegate. I tried 55% on the last pass but it spun. 65% gave me 25psi on dyno and 50% gave me 18psi on the dyno and 17-18psi on track. Turbo is far from done making boost.
09-29-2014, 10:34 AM
#740
My nitrous combo best 60' was 1.28 and would consistently go 1.29-1.31. The cam only combo best 60' was 1.29 and would consistently go 1.30-1.33.
Going to make a torque arm adjustment to attempt to plant the tire a little harder initially and see where it takes us.
Feels a lot better that's for sure.