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What turbo for a LQ4 Tow Rig??

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Old 10-03-2013, 06:39 AM
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Kb racing recommended a box stock s475 t6. I really like the price of this turbo.
Old 10-03-2013, 06:46 AM
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Get with Liljohn on here and see what he can do on that price. Great guy to deal with a great prices....don't think he will be beat.
Old 10-03-2013, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Sarg
Don't think you need a baby turbo to get quick spool. I have a s480 with the 92mm turbine on my lil 5.3 and I see positive pressure before 2500 Rpms and full boost before 3800 Rpms. This is a t6 1.10 ar turbine.
yes, but i'm assuming this is at wot or close to it?

with a tow rig I'd want it to be making a couple pounds of boost at 2500rpm at part throttle. I would want it to peak early in the rpm range, this way you don't need the engine rpm's high to make any decent power.

Diesels tow so well because they make power early and then carry it through their rpm range. Everyone on the internet throws on huge turbo's and they make great peak numbers, which is great for drag racing, but really isn't good on the street. A smaller turbo will peak early and that is what you want in my opinion.
Old 10-03-2013, 08:25 AM
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Actually no,about 50-60% throttle. Amazing what the right cam and turbo set up can do huh? This is also with 2.5" tubes leading into the turbo. I imagine with 2" schedule 10 pipes it might pick up a couple rpms. On a 6.0 I would expect positive pressure even lower. A s475 with the 96mm turbine would be my choice. Ialso have a deisel tow rig too. It is all stock though.
Old 10-03-2013, 08:39 AM
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Problem is building boost at a low enough rpm with that turbine. I've used just about every box stock BW there is, and that turbine has never really had much to offer down low under 2000rpm. What that t70 can do in OD, the s475 will need to be in 3rd.
Old 10-03-2013, 09:07 AM
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That was in 2 nd gear with a 3000 lb car and almost zero load on it.
Old 10-03-2013, 09:24 AM
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6BT diesel Cummins swap and never look back. You can get 20-22mpg highway empty and 13-4mpg towing 10,000lbs close flat front trailer.... and 16-17mpg towing an open trailer. Drag and speed/RPMs is more relevant to weight with diesel fuel economy. 600ft/lbs essentially stock.

You may as well just buy the entire Dodge truck running. I have had a few of them and best tow rig ever. They just don't ride as nice as Duramax trucks.
Old 10-03-2013, 09:31 AM
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Sounds like a fun project, but I'll stick with towing with my dmax, and hauling (***) with my turbo LS
Old 10-03-2013, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Compressor Surge
Sounds like a fun project, but I'll stick with towing with my dmax, and hauling (***) with my turbo LS
Buying a $55,000 dollar truck isn't in my budget...but I would like to see pics of the turbo blazer.
Old 10-03-2013, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by gnx7
6BT diesel Cummins swap and never look back. You can get 20-22mpg highway empty and 13-4mpg towing 10,000lbs close flat front trailer.... and 16-17mpg towing an open trailer. Drag and speed/RPMs is more relevant to weight with diesel fuel economy. 600ft/lbs essentially stock.

You may as well just buy the entire Dodge truck running. I have had a few of them and best tow rig ever. They just don't ride as nice as Duramax trucks.
If I can get that kind of fuel economy it would be a no brainer. I could sell the 6.0/80e to recoup some funds. What year truck would be the best to search for?
Old 10-03-2013, 10:30 AM
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Heck with my 2003 duramax crew cab I got 16 mpg towing a 8000 lb 20 foot horse trailer. Truck has 180k miles on it and stock other than intake and exhaust.
Old 10-03-2013, 10:37 AM
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'93-02 Ram 2500 or 3500 are the best bang for the buck.

There are tons of them for sale.
2WD trucks do horribly off road as most of them have open rear ends
they have ok turning radius
4WD trucks need the front ends rebuilt due to the 1000lbs weight of the 6BT
these trucks have a worse turning radius and weigh probably 1,000lb more with the huge Dana60 up front.

That being said I have a 2WD 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 extra cab long bed and love it.
13mpg towing a 10,000lb enclosed flat front trailer at 65mph
10mpg going 75mph with same trailer
17-18mpg towing an open loaded car trailer (5-6K pounds) at 65mph
18-19mpg towing empty open car trailer at (2K pound) at 65mph
20-22mpg all highway empty and no trailer at 65-70mph
stock turbo/intercooler/Edge Juice tuner (on lowest setting to save trans)
Trans is stock with 130K miles with upgraded line pressure solenoid kit.
Stock tq convertor is the weak link and can only handle so much tq or I would have turned up the Edge Juice tuner higher.
Tire width affects mpg. Stick with stock size unless you gotta look cool

I bought mine off the original owner with heated leather seats, perfect silver paint, 92K miles for $10K. I'm going to sell it 3 years later with 40K miles more for $11K easily. I have only replaced the injector pump and new tires in that time. Take your time to find a good one. They are out there.
Old 10-03-2013, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Sarg
That was in 2 nd gear with a 3000 lb car and almost zero load on it.
^ THIS! Plain and simple... you are not going to have a problem with spool with a S475 behind a 6.0. Especially when you are towing 10,000 lbs. lol

What stall are you going to be going with?
Old 10-03-2013, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by 93camaro_zzz
^ THIS! Plain and simple... you are not going to have a problem with spool with a S475 behind a 6.0. Especially when you are towing 10,000 lbs. lol
If you want to take hills in 2nd gear lol. But whats the point of a turbo then? If you actually want to build a turbo setup for towing, it should be the turbo making the torque. Not gearing. There's a reason diesels have tiny exhaust wheels/housings...
Old 10-03-2013, 12:18 PM
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Dude, 2 nd gear has a lower load (read slower spool) than higher gears. And most deisel turbos have larger exhaust wheels and smaller compressors.
Old 10-03-2013, 02:23 PM
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There seems to be some ambiguity as to what 'load' means when applied to a turbocharger. Turbo load is a function of cylinder air mass and RPM, neglecting the smaller contributions. Load by definition is a demand for something (electric current, water volume, heat transfer, etc) due to a difference in energy potential (voltage, pressure, heat difference, etc). The demand of the turbo is to increase shaft speed and the potential is pressure delta on the turbine. As soon as you mash the throttle and start dumping fuel in, the coefficient for the air mass part of the turbo's load is maxed. The reason the turbo continues to increase shaft speed is due to engine RPM driving the exhaust flow at an increasing rate.

Not to be an ******* or anything, but saying that one gear loads a turbocharger better than another is incorrect. There is a difference in turbo airflow capability between gears, but it is not load; it is called entropic heating, which is determined by the compressor wheel and airflow transient response. But that is another topic entirely.

With that said, load on the turbo will be smaller at a lower engine RPM. For a turbine/housing that is large, the same amount of load will drive the shaft at a lower RPM than with a smaller turbine/housing. This results in lower boost at lower engine RPM. If someone honestly wants to use the turbo to aid with towing, it is best having the boost come in as soon as possible. I probably can't speak for everyone, but I prefer not to rev to 4k or higher just to make enough torque to accelerate with a trailer. For that to be possible, a smaller turbo is in order.

For reference, the box stock s475 with the 1.32AR turbine housing has turbine dimensions of 96mm inducer, 88mm exducer. The HX35 turbo that comes stock on countless 5.9L cummins trucks has a turbine with a 69.5mm inducer, 60mm exducer. It is smaller in every dimension.
Old 10-03-2013, 02:43 PM
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I had a turbo on my Avalanche which I used to pull my race car,5-6k lbs. Heat was an issue and KR would build if boosted too long. Always watching the coolant temp and vacuum gauge making sure I wasn't boosting too long. I wouldn't recommend turboing your setup to pull a 5th wheel.
Old 10-03-2013, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by smokeshow
If the truck is going to be in boost for anything other than accelerating from a stop or on bigger hills, cooling upgrades are a must. There's a reason a Cummins radiator has its own zip code
I was going to throw my great experience with a rad in here...... My stock 5.3 wont even get hotter than it is when the thermostat is open if its under 60 degrees. Like - at all - with this thing. I bought for somewhere around $150ish. Awesome deal. Now look at the price. WTF?

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-too-cool.html

Anyway, I'm sure there are other ebay rads out there that would do the jog. All aluminum and significantly thicker, minor trimming on the shroud.

Last edited by AnotherWs6; 10-03-2013 at 03:50 PM.
Old 10-03-2013, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 1969x11
If I can get that kind of fuel economy it would be a no brainer. I could sell the 6.0/80e to recoup some funds. What year truck would be the best to search for?
i have a 94 12 valve cummins sitting on a engine stand in my shop ready to go. $2300 picked up. It has 150k on it. Look up www.autoworldmt.com for engine mounts and adapters. did a swap in my brother's 2000 2500 obs with their stuff
Old 10-03-2013, 03:53 PM
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I Have a 97 12 valve drw gets 25 on the highway and 15 pulling a pinestraw trailer!
It has 450k on it now and can break most dmaxs hearts daily! Good cheap trucks imo!


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