Sarg

iTrader: (6)

How would you wire it up if it is set up with a segment swap for the 80E and does not have the 60e tune?

got-a-ls1

iTrader: (12)

for a 80e segment you simply ground the wire anywhere out of the pin B trans connector or trans side of pcm red 47... (its the same wire... the pcm normally provides the ground, so grounding the pcm side of the wire would accomplish nothing)

if you are using a 60e tune then you must ground the pin B trans connector wire BEFORE the relay otherwise you are attempting to ground an open circuit... since the B solenoids of the 60e and 80e are inverted the relay would make the circuit open in 1st gear and you are only grounding one end of a wire with an open end on the other side.

Sarg

iTrader: (6)

Ok, little confused, but if it is the same wire, why does it matter if you ground it by the transmission or by the pcm? I readily admit I am not the best with wires, lol.

Photochop

iTrader: (74)

Hey Denmah, I know on a recent build you used a stock 4l80e converter for a bit before replacing, do you think this forced 3rd gear idea would work with a stock converter to help it act like a larger one on launch?

denmah

iTrader: (2)

the trans has 2 shift solenoids powered all the time
the computer grounds them to activate them
if you ground the computer nothing happens
if you ground the solenoid the gear change happens

unsure, we are going to try it with some stock stall cars
they wil hit max stall speed, unsure what that is.

Sarg

iTrader: (6)

Ok, but if the wire comes from the transmission and goes to the pcm, could you not just intercept that wire at the pcm and ground it before it gets there with a relay hooked to a switch or something? Or is this a wire inside the transmission?

denmah

iTrader: (2)

unsure what you are asking really

i am taking the ground wire, from the trans, with a 5 wire relay disconnecting the wire, from the computer

and grounding it manually to the chassis ground.

slow67

iTrader: (2)

If you have a relay already from running an 80E on a 60E tune, you can just ground the wire after the relay, then you don't have to kill any codes.

RedRocketZ28

iTrader: (19)

How hot to the trans temps get when using this, Matt? Any other adverse effects to the trans longevity when engaging/disengaging this?

LosLs1's

iTrader: (21)

I thinks it's been asked before but would it work for us that are using a manual control box? Sorry if it has been answered thanks!

Byrdman11

iTrader: (2)

Could you just ground the wire to make it go into 3rd and not use the relay. Just a simple push button to ground the solenoid.

denmah

iTrader: (2)

after 3 back to back passes i went from 110 to 190f, at the end of the third pass. it absolutely makes it hotter but i dont care, our firebird has made full passes at 250+ trans temps without issue, 80e's dont give a **** lol

i am sure with average cool down it wouldnt be a problem at all

no idea, may or may not!?

possibly i couldnt get it to work, going to try that again on 2 other cars

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

How about cutting response times by using an SSR, vs the "Radio Shack" electro mech relay??
SSR = very fast switching times. Because these relays are controlled by an infrared LED, the switching speed is measured in microseconds.
Also, they can be much smaller than electromechanical relays.

locospl

iTrader: (3)

This would work if if you had a double throw switch. In one position the wire would be connected normally, then in the opposite throw the solenoid wire could be grounded. Most push buttons are only single throw, however a double throw push button can be had.


On another note I have found that on a 4L60E, the 2-3 Shift solenoid is Yellow/Black wire on pin 47 of Red connector.

denmah

iTrader: (2)

the relay isnt the slow point, you have to wait for the trans to do its thing once you disconnect.

edwardzracing

iTrader: (59)

This is why you are my hero. LOL. I have a brake on my car, but because of this thread and the info Martin shared earlier, this should help build some boost at the pre-stage beam before bumping into the stage beam. Thanks for all you do for the community.

Brad

atomic 6

If you have a 4l80e with a brake installed, you have had this function the whole time.

If you have a Transbrake in your 4l80e already you don't have to do anything, but put it in second gear(manual lever), and push the Transbrake button.

You will be in third(commanded)

Then when spooled and ready to, roll forward to stage, and pull the gear lever back to first, with the transbrake button still held this whole time, and you will be staged, spooled, and ready to go. Just let go of the brake to leave at the right time.

I have also used this on the Interstate(roll racing) with Manual second selected, I push the transbrake(now I am in commanded third) and use the brakes to boost to where I want, and when ready I let go on the Transbrake button, it goes back to the normal second gear because it is in Manual Second the whole time, but then I have to shift manually to third when I need the next upshift.

Pretty cool Matt has got this to work without having a Transbrake installed in the Valvebody. I have been doing this for a couple of years now. And don't have any breakage yet.

Torqueshaft

^^^^^^
Thanks...Good info.

geoff17

Alright a little off topic here but I can't get any rpm (like 2100) in first gear but I can get a good amount (3500) in 2nd gear and am able to do that without wiring anything in but when I do this I launch in 2nd gear it does not downshift back to first, is it bad on a 4l80e to launch in 2nd gear?? It helped tremendously by leaving in 2nd gear though. My 60ft went from a best of a 1.95 in first gear to a 1.65 leaving in second gear and then the track went away and I think it could have got better.

slow67

iTrader: (2)

No, it won't hurt the trans. Its harder on the sprag to shift to 2nd than launch in 2nd (the sprag is already loaded if you launch in 2nd).