Shooting for 3000 hp. Ideas and input
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From: Lombard .IL
Shooting for 3000 hp. Ideas and input I want to hear some members ideas on changing my set up for the 2014 season.
We need about 3000 hp and need to run well into the 6's
Currently about 2000 hp @ 35 lbs of boost
Current set up.
- 430 ci
-Twin Percision 76 mm billet wheels, wanting to switch to 88's
-16 injectors. Thinking of switching back to 8 injectors. Not sure on size yet?
-Weight about 3175, we're looking weigh less
-TH 400 2.10 first gear
-PTC converter, thinkng of switching to Pro Torque
-Compression about 10.8 to 1
-Need a new cam, current 264 ish .725 @ 113, it's peaking out at 7400 rpm with the 76's , I need to spin the motor to 9000 rpm.
-Currently a wet sump , really thinking of switching to dry sump.
-Running coil on plug, stock coils. I have new AEM HO coils not installed yet.
-Running twin ele fuel pumps , need to go belt driven.
-Steel rods, poss alum??
-I/C in passenger seat of car. Thinking of moving it to the front of the car?
-Running a Beck intake , it's been working so well hate to change it.
-Running original ET LS7 heads. Change worth it??? Which heads??
Ideas????
Questions????
Let them fly. I want to hear what the members have to say!!
We will be posting pics of progress and decisions we end up making.
We need about 3000 hp and need to run well into the 6's
Currently about 2000 hp @ 35 lbs of boost
Current set up.
- 430 ci
-Twin Percision 76 mm billet wheels, wanting to switch to 88's
-16 injectors. Thinking of switching back to 8 injectors. Not sure on size yet?
-Weight about 3175, we're looking weigh less
-TH 400 2.10 first gear
-PTC converter, thinkng of switching to Pro Torque
-Compression about 10.8 to 1
-Need a new cam, current 264 ish .725 @ 113, it's peaking out at 7400 rpm with the 76's , I need to spin the motor to 9000 rpm.
-Currently a wet sump , really thinking of switching to dry sump.
-Running coil on plug, stock coils. I have new AEM HO coils not installed yet.
-Running twin ele fuel pumps , need to go belt driven.
-Steel rods, poss alum??
-I/C in passenger seat of car. Thinking of moving it to the front of the car?
-Running a Beck intake , it's been working so well hate to change it.
-Running original ET LS7 heads. Change worth it??? Which heads??
Ideas????
Questions????
Let them fly. I want to hear what the members have to say!!
We will be posting pics of progress and decisions we end up making.
Last edited by LASTLS1; Dec 2, 2013 at 11:48 PM.
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 234
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Need more info on the set up you have now...
What hp are you at ?
How much boost ?
What kind of back pressure are you seeing ?
What do your heads flow ?
Making more hp always breaks down to three things...
1) Getting more air/ fuel into the engine.
2) Getting the most out of that air/fuel.
3) Making it all stay together.
I do like alum rods for applications like yours...Tends to be more forgiving on bearings and main caps.
What hp are you at ?
How much boost ?
What kind of back pressure are you seeing ?
What do your heads flow ?
Making more hp always breaks down to three things...
1) Getting more air/ fuel into the engine.
2) Getting the most out of that air/fuel.
3) Making it all stay together.
I do like alum rods for applications like yours...Tends to be more forgiving on bearings and main caps.
Thread Starter
6 Second Club Moderator
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Lombard .IL
Need more info on the set up you have now...
What hp are you at ?
How much boost ?
What kind of back pressure are you seeing ?
What do your heads flow ?
Making more hp always breaks down to three things...
1) Getting more air/ fuel into the engine.
2) Getting the most out of that air/fuel.
3) Making it all stay together.
I do like alum rods for applications like yours...Tends to be more forgiving on bearings and main caps.
What hp are you at ?
How much boost ?
What kind of back pressure are you seeing ?
What do your heads flow ?
Making more hp always breaks down to three things...
1) Getting more air/ fuel into the engine.
2) Getting the most out of that air/fuel.
3) Making it all stay together.
I do like alum rods for applications like yours...Tends to be more forgiving on bearings and main caps.
Turbos out of steam. About 2000 hp
Motor runs season to season, never somes apart. Heads stay on all season!
Heads are so old, don't remember. 330?
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 234
Likes: 1
1000 "extra" hp is a "big" bump...
Your going to need to pump 1/2 again as much air/fuel into it as you currently are.
I assume you are running methanol for fuel.
So just a few quick things on your list I agree you will need...
Better flowing heads. (400 cfm+)
Bigger turbo's.
Better cam.
Belt driven fuel pump.
Aluminum rods. (but you will need to remember they are "expendable" items)
Stay with the wet sump you have been using.
Sounds like it has been working well for you biased on your "never comes apart comment" and it is all we ever use to run on our blown alcohol BBC or my friends Hemi.
(Unless you have lots of money and even then I would use the money for better heads)
Simple truth is...
That's a big jump in power you are wanting and it will take a real revamp of your current set up to get there.
That's a lot more air/fuel you are going to need to cram in there.
Your going to need to pump 1/2 again as much air/fuel into it as you currently are.
I assume you are running methanol for fuel.
So just a few quick things on your list I agree you will need...
Better flowing heads. (400 cfm+)
Bigger turbo's.
Better cam.
Belt driven fuel pump.
Aluminum rods. (but you will need to remember they are "expendable" items)
Stay with the wet sump you have been using.
Sounds like it has been working well for you biased on your "never comes apart comment" and it is all we ever use to run on our blown alcohol BBC or my friends Hemi.
(Unless you have lots of money and even then I would use the money for better heads)
Simple truth is...
That's a big jump in power you are wanting and it will take a real revamp of your current set up to get there.
That's a lot more air/fuel you are going to need to cram in there.
Sell everything call pro line and tell them you want the baddest ls around. New dart block, twin gtx 5518s or the gen 2 pro mods 88s should put you up front. Reliable 3000 Hp ls stuff is not well proven yet. There are few guys in this territory but I don't think they are going an entire season without tear downs.
Sorry if I didn't see this but what class racing is this for? Min weight? Max power adder? Your goal shouldn't necessarily be 3000 horse but more the system's level design to achieve your goals. You are very heavy still unless you are class-capped at that weight and there is going to be a good deal of chassis mods necessary as well to handle the changes you are looking for, but if you are around 2k horse now I am preaching to the choir. I would look at every aspect of the design first and see where/if I can carve some weight out of it anywhere. Top notch trans? Glide with all the goodies? Converter has to be dialed in of course...is there upgrades in the driveshaft, ring and pinion or axles you can make to maintain performance but reduce rotational weight? This isn't going to be about money if you are even considering doing it but my humble approach would be to do whatever I could to increase efficiency throughout the design. Most aggressive/lightest blades i can afford in the turbo obviously optimized for your application....
Sure sounds like a great problem to solve...and btw you'll be dry dumping this motor and running on alcohol which u prob are already...
Good luck! Hope to see this thing come to life!
Sure sounds like a great problem to solve...and btw you'll be dry dumping this motor and running on alcohol which u prob are already...
Good luck! Hope to see this thing come to life!
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Thread Starter
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From: Lombard .IL
No we run C16 and staying with that.
We need the 3000 hp to run the numbers we need to compete. The class has stepped up, lol.
I know to get to our goal we will need the 88's
Btw, never hurts to listen to ideas!
We need the 3000 hp to run the numbers we need to compete. The class has stepped up, lol.
I know to get to our goal we will need the 88's
Btw, never hurts to listen to ideas!
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If you haven't then my first suggestion would be to read the rules for the class a few times.
to compete at the top level of any class you will have to build it specific to take advantage of all rule provisions. fuel, weight, chassis, electronics, power adder, and blank space between the lines; windows for opportunity
.
completely different ball park but I understand the situation.
I built a car the way I thought i would enjoy it the most, won a few races from it being a reliable package and got down right lucky on a couple more. Cool car but not the right car for what i ended up doing with it, tho it was fun to drive home.
My next car will be built to take advantage of everything the rules allow. one might even consider it a race car when done.
Other than that as above its a big jump and you will need to be pretty open minded about forgetting what used to work for you, getting out of your comfort zone, and expect growing pains.
Good luck, I will be following it
to compete at the top level of any class you will have to build it specific to take advantage of all rule provisions. fuel, weight, chassis, electronics, power adder, and blank space between the lines; windows for opportunity
.completely different ball park but I understand the situation.
I built a car the way I thought i would enjoy it the most, won a few races from it being a reliable package and got down right lucky on a couple more. Cool car but not the right car for what i ended up doing with it, tho it was fun to drive home.
My next car will be built to take advantage of everything the rules allow. one might even consider it a race car when done.
Other than that as above its a big jump and you will need to be pretty open minded about forgetting what used to work for you, getting out of your comfort zone, and expect growing pains.
Good luck, I will be following it
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I know you said you're sticking with C16, but is methanol allowed by class rules? There's significant power to be had at your power level just by switching to methanol, and it would afford you the option of getting rid of your intercooler for weight savings.
Those billet 76s should be good for 1200 or so each. If you're at 2000 then there's something else causing a bit of a bottleneck.
Aluminum rods are great. I remember Moran saying how much better he thought that the car ran With aluminum rods, and he was getting 100 or so passes at 3500+ HP before even removing the heads.
Those billet 76s should be good for 1200 or so each. If you're at 2000 then there's something else causing a bit of a bottleneck.
Aluminum rods are great. I remember Moran saying how much better he thought that the car ran With aluminum rods, and he was getting 100 or so passes at 3500+ HP before even removing the heads.
Carlyle is making the numbers you want with 88's, so that's a combo that will work. But he's already doing it so what's the fun in that! Straight to Promod 94's if that 430 can get up on them and you'll have a little room to grow 
Thread Starter
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From: Lombard .IL
I like the strength of the iron block and have had great luck with it. I also need weight in the front to the car, that block would put me way under weight with the 88's . I'll have to weigh more than with the 76's.
Last edited by LASTLS1; Dec 3, 2013 at 08:59 PM.
Thread Starter
6 Second Club Moderator
iTrader: (7)
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From: Lombard .IL
If you haven't then my first suggestion would be to read the rules for the class a few times.
to compete at the top level of any class you will have to build it specific to take advantage of all rule provisions. fuel, weight, chassis, electronics, power adder, and blank space between the lines; windows for opportunity.
completely different ball park but I understand the situation.
I built a car the way I thought i would enjoy it the most, won a few races from it being a reliable package and got down right lucky on a couple more. Cool car but not the right car for what i ended up doing with it, tho it was fun to drive home.
My next car will be built to take advantage of everything the rules allow. one might even consider it a race car when done.
Other than that as above its a big jump and you will need to be pretty open minded about forgetting what used to work for you, getting out of your comfort zone, and expect growing pains.
Good luck, I will be following it
to compete at the top level of any class you will have to build it specific to take advantage of all rule provisions. fuel, weight, chassis, electronics, power adder, and blank space between the lines; windows for opportunity
.completely different ball park but I understand the situation.
I built a car the way I thought i would enjoy it the most, won a few races from it being a reliable package and got down right lucky on a couple more. Cool car but not the right car for what i ended up doing with it, tho it was fun to drive home.
My next car will be built to take advantage of everything the rules allow. one might even consider it a race car when done.
Other than that as above its a big jump and you will need to be pretty open minded about forgetting what used to work for you, getting out of your comfort zone, and expect growing pains.
Good luck, I will be following it
I know the 88's will make up the 1000hp that we need. BUT I like being reilable . I give props to all involved that we can run all season year after year without the heads our motor coming out. Props Speed Inc and LME
I also like showing what we can do without the most expensive parts. When this set up was built many people said I would be pushing it to run a 7.90 with what we have.
The rules are pretty open, somebody needed to think it through better when this class was started. The class in the past 2 years has become who has the most money. I want to build a winning setup that cost less than my house.
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From: Lombard .IL
His car weighs a 1000 lbs less than mine. If so I think I could run those numbers. Everyone else in my class runs 88's except one person. The 76's only gives us a 100 lb weight break, not enough to make up the 1000hp difference.