347+Boost=Good Idea?
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347+Boost=Good Idea?
Just out of curiosity what kind of numbers are you guys getting out of 347's and boost? Im having one built over at HKE and talk to a few others and was told that aluminum isnt very suitable with high boost so to say. My goals are forged 347 with a decked out s480 race cover, billet wheel, etc. With a 1.10 AR (Opinions needed) hoping to make 8-900 with pump and meth and 1k+ on race gas? Im sure this topic has been beat to death but if you can give some insight i'd appreciate it.
Thanks
Jose
Thanks
Jose
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People have stock bottom end LS1s that have survived a long time with 600-800. Of course others have also blown up, and it's not considered reliable to run stock block past 600, but there are some stock block LS1s holding up great. With that said I don't see why a forged aluminum 347 couldn't handle 800-900 reliably no problem. Im planning to do the same in the future. No love for the aluminum blocks, especially the LS1s.
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Touche' to the both of you guys, I love the ls1 but from what ive read the ls1's walls are very thin onced bored to 3.905 roughly 3.910 being max bore. Just want to make sure Im going in the right direction with it. Car will very light so I figured 8-900 will make this thing fly. Any opinions on what A/R to run?
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I have a stock bottom end as of right now. But if I had the coin to go into it I would and turn her loose. From what I hear they don't start giving you issues to right around 1000rwhp.
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**** by then you'll be able to answer your own questions. I was just speaking from a bunch of people that I know that have done it.
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My friends firehawk that I do the tuneups on has a forged 348 ls1, it hasn't been on the Dyno to know what it is putting down, but has been 5.81 at 122.4 with 93 and meth, so is making some power on the stock ls1 block.
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That was with a t4 cast wheel 78 Borg turbo on 17psi, dual nozzle alky kit spraying straight m1, powerglide, 3.55 gear. Two weeks ago he had the turbo upgraded to a billet wheel 80, and we tuned it to 19 psi, but waiting for the tracks to reopen to get some results.
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The bottom line is an iron block is better suited for higher hp. At that power level the aluminum block is more prone to distortion to the cylinder walls. Iron is a lot stronger and resistant to that. Best way to do an aluminum block would be to have it sleeved or just go with an iron block.
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I had an aluminum block L76 in a 5000lb truck walking away from 130mph cobras... Twin mp70s on 16psi, showing around 850 at the wheels. Truck has a single HP88 on it now, going to 20psi in the next week or two. Not concerned about distorting the cylinders at all. Iron is stronger, but for most people aluminum is sufficient.
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Hell yeah thanks for the replies guys nice to see some higher horse power aluminum blocks. II am starting to gather parts for the build I appreciate very much guys
Thanks
Jose
Thanks
Jose
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The way I look at it is the stock crank(what i have) is only good to about 1200hp anyway. If I want more power than 1000whp I'll be ditching the aluminum block for a 6.0 iron and going with an aftermarket crank anyway. If you are planning on using a stock crank, then the aluminum block is about as equally a limitation as the that is.
Currently making 735whp and 920wtq. Going back on the dyno soon with more fueling.
Currently making 735whp and 920wtq. Going back on the dyno soon with more fueling.
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The way I look at it is the stock crank(what i have) is only good to about 1200hp anyway. If I want more power than 1000whp I'll be ditching the aluminum block for a 6.0 iron and going with an aftermarket crank anyway. If you are planning on using a stock crank, then the aluminum block is about as equally a limitation as the that is.
Currently making 735whp and 920wtq. Going back on the dyno soon with more fueling.
Currently making 735whp and 920wtq. Going back on the dyno soon with more fueling.