oscs

iTrader: (19)

Nothing is limiting me to 170MPH. I'm saying that there are better gear options to get me there.

oscs

iTrader: (19)

A friend just sent this picture to me and pointed out how much squat the rear and has. This picture was taken somewhere around 150MPH. The struts are set on 3.5 out of 5 on the stiffness. I'm not sure why I didn't think to tighten them up. I guess this explains why the 28's where rubbing. Anyone think the 5 setting will make a noticeable difference over 3.5?

mistafosta

iTrader: (9)

My Tokikos see a huge difference between the 3 and 5 setting if that helps.

TRIXLSXSUPRA

Sorry i'm sure i missed it as i'm a little late to the party lol

But what does your rear suspension consist of?

TRIXLSXSUPRA

BTW nice thread you have going on i'm still trying to catch up from the beginning!

oscs

iTrader: (19)

Well that's never good. I made some dump pipes today and I think they are to close to the oil feed in result heating up my oil.well let's hope that's the cause becuase a sudden increase is. It a good thing.

oscs

iTrader: (19)

Good info

oscs

iTrader: (19)

Short nose VLSD R200 and all the top of the line Nissan IRS components you can buy.

oscs

iTrader: (19)

It's a long one!

427zm

iTrader: (9)

Setrab. Do it once, do it right.

oscs

iTrader: (19)

They make a good product.

oscs

iTrader: (19)

Seeing the high oil temps got my gears going so I cut open the oil filter to see what was inside and I find this. Disregarding the black material, is this an excessive amount of bearing material? The motor probably has 2k on it and this is the second oil filter since the build. The first one came off at 500 miles and I never looked inside it.

Hot idle is around 35-40 which is down from 50. Everything seems normal except a slight drop in pressure.

Now I just got done making some dump pipes and they are not wrapped like my exhuast system. The oil distribution block sits pretty damn close, so heat soak could def be a possibility, I'm going to wrap them later today to see if that changes anything with the oil temps.

1320king

iTrader: (4)

did you strain out the oil as well? That looks like decent amount of material in there. Nothing MAJOR but deff more then I would expect after 2 oil changes and 2k miles. I usually filter my oil through a coffee filter to see as well. Some of those pieces look kind of big if there bearing material.

3 window

iTrader: (1)

Get it out and get the pan off! Those pieces are too big not to worry about. You'll definitely see something wrong. Take a close look at the thrust bearing and measure the end play. I'm betting it's a bearing.

oscs

iTrader: (19)

No I didn't strain it. I'm going to wrap the Dumps today and see what the oil pressure does. I have a TR6060 going in next week so when I do that I'll drop the pan and check the rod/main bearings to see which one took a dump.

3 window

iTrader: (1)

Sorry for not reading the entire thread. Was the shortblock new or did someone go through it or was it just a bolt in and go? I know when I pulled mine apart, the rod bearings looked good but were a little loose in the rods. Nothing spun, but none the less. Seeing that the engine was out of a truck, I'd guess heavy loads and maybe a little detonation along the way. Only reason I'm sayin this is that even with a stocker, you can bang the bearings out of round, let alone if you're throwing boost at it. Check it before it damages the crank. It could still be salvageable.

oscs

iTrader: (19)

Built HKE short block. During TX2K I melted the mech oil gauge feed line and didn't realize it until I was in the pits with 10psi on the Holley sensor. If bearings are compromised that's why. Regardless though I will be checking them when I have the pan down. What I'm hoping is it is something small like a rod bearing and I can just pop a new bearing in and be done. As we speak I am letting the oil get up to temp ad will re check Hot idle pressure. Anything less than 50 (where it was before) and it's going under the knife for a little bit.

stevieturbo

The video definitely looks like a lot of debris, so it's hateful to have to take things apart to investigate, but it probably is worthwhile

If you have oil pressure info fed to the ecu, then it would make sense to apply some safety strategies around it. Whether for actual engine shutdown or purely to give you a warning to do something about it.

If the sensor is in a hot location, remote mount it so it is not. The sensors generally live longer mounted remotely anyway

oscs

iTrader: (19)

Hot idle pressure is about 40. Crushing pressure is 65.. Since wrapping the dump my oil temps are back down to 215-220 after some hard pulls @7lbs. Everything seems fine but I'm still going to pop the caps off And check for wear while the trans is out. The more I think about it the more I don't know what my hot idle pressure was before. I went back through some old threads and I was seeing 30-40 at some point. Not to mention that was when it was colder outside..

I think for now I will keep driving the car and closely monitor the oil pressure and temps. When it comes time to swap transmissions I will cut the filter open and drop the pan for further inspection.

Also I have since setup the low oil pressure safety on my ECU to prevent further issues.

stevieturbo

I would find it hard to believe your dump pipes are the cause of actual hot oil.

If they are in close proximity to the sensor, perhaps the radiant heat is causing some false readings.
Where is the oil temp sensor fitted ?

At low load, cruise etc etc oil temp should pretty much mirror coolant temp. Only when you start loading things up should oil temp rise above coolant temp.
That can be used as a guide to see if either sensor is giving sensible readings.

And where is the oil pressure sensor fitted ? again it's always best to remote mount these as it isolates them from engine vibration. Plus if it moves it away from a hot location, that's always a good thing too.