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Twin Turbo LSX Datsun 280Z

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Old 04-18-2015, 02:36 PM
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You think it was an oil problem?
Old 04-18-2015, 06:16 PM
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Defiantly oil starved. All the main look this bad. Honestly they aren't "that bad" as they are smooth to the touch and no brass is showing. But they where on their way. It was defiantly from that last pull at TX2K15.

Currently a stock crank on a 370ci LQ4. I've been debating on what to do as far as new block, more power yada yada.. I think I'm just going buy a K1 crank and see what I can get out of this LQ4.
Old 04-18-2015, 07:14 PM
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how are you going to solve the oil starvation?
Old 04-18-2015, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 1320king
how are you going to solve the oil starvation?
Not melt the oil feed line to my gauge. I got lucky and just barely did damage to them. They look a lot worse in the pictures. A forged crankshaft and new bearings will have me rolling soon.

Last edited by oscs; 04-18-2015 at 08:08 PM.
Old 04-18-2015, 08:31 PM
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oh wow.
Old 04-18-2015, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by oscs
Defiantly oil starved. All the main look this bad. Honestly they aren't "that bad" as they are smooth to the touch and no brass is showing. But they where on their way. It was defiantly from that last pull at TX2K15.

Currently a stock crank on a 370ci LQ4. I've been debating on what to do as far as new block, more power yada yada.. I think I'm just going buy a K1 crank and see what I can get out of this LQ4.
Yeah, you're pushing the stock crank honestly. That block will hold you longer than the 4 bolt heads will so I wouldn't worry about that. Just get a decent crank in there since its gonna be apart anyways.
Old 04-18-2015, 10:04 PM
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Here is a good question. If I'm going to go with a new forged crank should I rip the entire rotating assembly out and have it rebalanced even though the rods/pistons are already weight matched?
Old 04-18-2015, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by oscs
Here is a good question. If I'm going to go with a new forged crank should I rip the entire rotating assembly out and have it rebalanced even though the rods/pistons are already weight matched?
Without question.
Old 04-18-2015, 11:41 PM
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Rotten luck for sure.
Old 04-19-2015, 03:45 AM
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Originally Posted by oscs
Here is a good question. If I'm going to go with a new forged crank should I rip the entire rotating assembly out and have it rebalanced even though the rods/pistons are already weight matched?
Do you have any records so you know the weight of the rods//bearings/pistons/pins/rings ?

ie, the info to allow someone to balance whatever crank you get without a full stripdown.

Technically yes should have the crank balanced.
Old 04-19-2015, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
Do you have any records so you know the weight of the rods//bearings/pistons/pins/rings ?

ie, the info to allow someone to balance whatever crank you get without a full stripdown.

Technically yes should have the crank balanced.

Erik should have these numbers for me. that would be convienent not to have to tear the motor back down.
Old 04-19-2015, 08:11 AM
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As Stevie said if the bobweight is known, don't have to tear down, you can even order a crank from say Callie's and they will balance to your bobweight for an extra cost

And you have a holley, why didn't you have shutdowns setup? That is the sole reason I left the stock ecm
Old 04-19-2015, 08:17 AM
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The saftey Isn't as straight forward to setup as say pro efi, but easy still

Setup on the IO, then use the boost config to kill ignition



Old 04-19-2015, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by rotary1307cc
The saftey Isn't as straight forward to setup as say pro efi, but easy still

Setup on the IO, then use the boost config to kill ignition



Becuase I'm a dumb ***. You can bet your sweet *** they are setup now though.
Old 04-19-2015, 09:11 AM
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Guys shoot some recommendations for quality cranks. Also explain to me why I shouldn't just rip this thing apart and go 408
Old 04-19-2015, 09:29 AM
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zack where did you pull that screen up? Have i been missing that all this time!! Iam not boosted though, maybe thats why?
Old 04-19-2015, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by oscs
Guys shoot some recommendations for quality cranks. Also explain to me why I shouldn't just rip this thing apart and go 408
Personally I'm a big fan of callies stuff. But there are quite a few good companies out there for a reasonable price. Manley, K1, ect.
Old 04-19-2015, 04:29 PM
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If you do a crank please buy a decent one like the dragon slayer or lunati pro. Not the China crap

And I'm confused, seems silly to swap out pistons/rings that are fit for that block for a stroke change
Old 04-19-2015, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 1320king
zack where did you pull that screen up? Have i been missing that all this time!! Iam not boosted though, maybe thats why?
Setup a output, you will have to add the I/O config to do this, then also add the boost congfig you need this aswell.

Setup the output to trigger what you see in my pic, it will say outputs have not been assigned, it is fine, they don't have to be

If you want me to send a global folder to see give me Ur email, I never got a file from u before
Old 04-19-2015, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by rotary1307cc
If you do a crank please buy a decent one like the dragon slayer or lunati pro. Not the China crap

And I'm confused, seems silly to swap out pistons/rings that are fit for that block for a stroke change
Yeah I think I'm just going to keep the stock stroke for now. I spoke with Erik about what crank and he suggestes using a K1 he didn't think it was necessary to drop the coin on the dragon slayer since I was keeping stock stroke.


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