Twin Turbo LSX Datsun 280Z
12-01-2015, 10:23 PM
#1201
TECH Fanatic
Man it looks like you have a little positive camber. That goes a long way when you load the rear.
Having the right combination of facny parts helps too.
A glide and an AMS 1000 on a slow ramp is likley the best case scenario anyone could ask for....but its not realistic for 99% of the people that would race in a street enviroment. still really stong info-the feathering is a serious issue with my Mickeys and my rear end is not stong enough to do a burnout every time I take the car ou to seek traction!
Having the right combination of facny parts helps too.
A glide and an AMS 1000 on a slow ramp is likley the best case scenario anyone could ask for....but its not realistic for 99% of the people that would race in a street enviroment. still really stong info-the feathering is a serious issue with my Mickeys and my rear end is not stong enough to do a burnout every time I take the car ou to seek traction! 
12-02-2015, 12:34 AM
#1202
Trucks gonna roll out pretty hard if I can get it back together.
12-02-2015, 03:53 PM
#1204
Thanks I don't really know much. I just test a **** ton on the street rolling vbox stuff. As you can see lots of bare road lol
Use the mickey on the track, that is where they are designed to work and they work very well.
Honestly still can't believe the life the nitto have offered compared to the mickey.
The tread is always like this, absolutely no feathering like the mickey
Just a little tire though, I run them on a 9" weld.
Honest to god truth the mickey go from amazing g to marbles in zero time when they feather under heavy power and breaking traction.... Too soft
The nitto break traction in a strange way too. They rumble on my car, very noticeable
With no air applied to the gate it makes 4psi of boost. 22psi on gate makes 22psi of boost. Past that the compressor is dying. 31 on the gate makes 25 at 6k and down to 23 by 7k
So in that vid... I go wot with no air on the gate... You can see it ride 4psi..... You then see me arm the ams1000 and it does the commanded ramp. I let it ride 4psi for a second so it can be seen what is happening.
I will take a pic of my actual ramp timing and pressures
Here is another vid same thing. To show u the roads are. Nothing special and plain asphalt
But the nitto is a God send for a street tire. IF you know how to use it. My mickeys will never touch the street again
Nitto 555r vbox roll in. 3.4 100-150, 4.1 60-130 - YouTube
I have never used the nt05
Use the mickey on the track, that is where they are designed to work and they work very well.
Honestly still can't believe the life the nitto have offered compared to the mickey.
The tread is always like this, absolutely no feathering like the mickey
Just a little tire though, I run them on a 9" weld.
Honest to god truth the mickey go from amazing g to marbles in zero time when they feather under heavy power and breaking traction.... Too soft
The nitto break traction in a strange way too. They rumble on my car, very noticeable
With no air applied to the gate it makes 4psi of boost. 22psi on gate makes 22psi of boost. Past that the compressor is dying. 31 on the gate makes 25 at 6k and down to 23 by 7k
So in that vid... I go wot with no air on the gate... You can see it ride 4psi..... You then see me arm the ams1000 and it does the commanded ramp. I let it ride 4psi for a second so it can be seen what is happening.
I will take a pic of my actual ramp timing and pressures
Here is another vid same thing. To show u the roads are. Nothing special and plain asphalt
But the nitto is a God send for a street tire. IF you know how to use it. My mickeys will never touch the street again
Nitto 555r vbox roll in. 3.4 100-150, 4.1 60-130 - YouTube
I have never used the nt05
Excellent info as usual and
at that sticker on your steering wheel.
12-02-2015, 05:44 PM
#1205
With no air applied to the gate it makes 4psi of boost. 22psi on gate makes 22psi of boost. Past that the compressor is dying. 31 on the gate makes 25 at 6k and down to 23 by 7k
So in that vid... I go wot with no air on the gate... You can see it ride 4psi..... You then see me arm the ams1000 and it does the commanded ramp. I let it ride 4psi for a second so it can be seen what is happening.
I will take a pic of my actual ramp timing and pressures
Last edited by Forcefed86; 12-03-2015 at 12:50 PM.
12-03-2015, 05:27 PM
#1208
Originally Posted by Blown06
What kind of fuel flow numbers are you seeing at the top of high gear?
Last edited by oscs; 12-03-2015 at 05:38 PM.
12-03-2015, 07:47 PM
#1209
TECH Fanatic
Its funny to watch his run- boost gauge stays pegged the whole time- and me with a 6 speed its bouncing around the whole pass like
12-03-2015, 11:10 PM
#1210
Yeah sweet sticker, have to have it I'm an idiot lol
Here is the controller setup on the street. It's hitting full boost faster that 6.4 because the turbo dies up top. Beyond 22 on the gate the boost increases very slowly till its just done all together then drops
It's peaking around 115 on street
At the track I run a single stage time based.
On 8.50 pass i left on 6psi, it was 1.8 seconds (50mph) to full boost (21psi)
Here is the controller setup on the street. It's hitting full boost faster that 6.4 because the turbo dies up top. Beyond 22 on the gate the boost increases very slowly till its just done all together then drops
It's peaking around 115 on street
At the track I run a single stage time based.
On 8.50 pass i left on 6psi, it was 1.8 seconds (50mph) to full boost (21psi)
12-04-2015, 01:45 AM
#1212
I don't have the best data in the world (spinning) but in high gear around 6400rpm it was flowing right around 1300 lb/hr of E85 so what is that translate to 1050 CHP or something? That was at 26lbs of boost. I'm pretty sure this was the hit that the rocker bolt back out on. I'll get much more clean data at the track Saturday.
12-04-2015, 08:21 AM
#1213
I see you start at "0" have you considered or tried to start at spring pressure? Your track ramp rate looks like my street rate
Except you actually get traction. I need to make some big time adjustments to my street tune. Problem is that some of the guys i run with are 1200whp 996 cars.. They have all the weight in the rear and it makes it very hard to keep up unless i can bring the boost in early and try to use what they don't have (torque)
12-04-2015, 08:29 AM
#1214
Using .80 on the scale that brings the car up to an estimated 1050 CHP.. I know conditions are not perfect but i expected to see Consumption numbers higher than that at that RPM range. BUT im far from an expert so i could be wrong?
12-04-2015, 09:04 AM
#1216
Originally Posted by rotary1307cc
1300lb/hr at .80bsfc is 1625hp
Last edited by oscs; 12-04-2015 at 11:09 AM.
12-04-2015, 10:48 PM
#1217
This was around 1200rwhp on my car..... stock crank, Compstar rods. Single 88mm T4.
It was only held together by the flywheel/trans and the 2 rods clamping the journal together.
Luckily mine didn't really damage anything as the motor shut down due to loss of reluctor wheel signal I'm guessing.
You should build a motor before nothing is useable once that grenades.
It was only held together by the flywheel/trans and the 2 rods clamping the journal together.
Luckily mine didn't really damage anything as the motor shut down due to loss of reluctor wheel signal I'm guessing.
You should build a motor before nothing is useable once that grenades.
12-04-2015, 11:36 PM
#1218
Originally Posted by gnx7
This was around 1200rwhp on my car..... stock crank, Compstar rods. Single 88mm T4.
It was only held together by the flywheel/trans and the 2 rods clamping the journal together.
Luckily mine didn't really damage anything as the motor shut down due to loss of reluctor wheel signal I'm guessing.
You should build a motor before nothing is useable once that grenades.
It was only held together by the flywheel/trans and the 2 rods clamping the journal together.
Luckily mine didn't really damage anything as the motor shut down due to loss of reluctor wheel signal I'm guessing.
You should build a motor before nothing is useable once that grenades.