rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

No removing rear moulding or jacking up the back is a no no spread by people that don't have a clue. The t2 will make it worse too

The cowl is a high pressure area. The last place you want to vent to the engine bay



Arrows pointing away is low pressure.

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

Hmm... Interesting to see that diagram. I am sure the TII hood will still go on eventually. I have it purchased for the weight savings. I cant believe how heavy the steel hood is. Its mind blowing. We will see how the current setup does on the highway. I don't think it will reach 225 but we will see.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

You can get non TII hood that are aluminum. I used to have one on my FC. I forget exactly what you have to look for on car-parts.com. I think maybe the GLX flat hoods were aluminum.

Andrew

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

There are aluminum normal hoods. I have one. Its not a big deal to block the t2 vent

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

I actually had an aluminum non TII hood on my old car. Still wish that I had that hood.

Went out last night with the intention of running 15lbs by the end of the night. We got the tune lined out on the boost setting I was at. - 9ish pounds. Then we turned up the boost slowly until we got to 12lbs. We stopped at 12lbs because the car became totally useless on the street. Even with the glide in second and doing a decent speed, rolling into it would break the tires loose without much issue. Tires are a 27 x10.5 Hoosier QTP. I guess now its figuring out how to get this thing to hook on the street. I am thinking it will involve turning the boost back down a bit. I have yet to look into any suspension mods. Part of it could be that its an IRS car instead of a solid axle car as well. However, I should be able to hook it on 12 lbs I would think.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

With boost coming in all at once thats about all mine is good for on the street. Running a glide,3.25 gear, and 28" tires. Even last year with the 3.10 gear it would spin a 29x12" slick at 13ish lbs. (on the street, dead hooked at the track)

Just installed a boost control solenoid and am doing RPM based boost with my ECU. I can now slowly ramp in 16ish without spinning. Sure I could do more but thats my spring pressure opening point. Trapped 145 at 15lbs last week so it's plenty quick for the street at that level IMO. Slowly ramping in boost is pretty fun, it never stops pulling. Feels much faster than it is!

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

I had a feeling that would be the reply I would get. I need to trouble shoot that innovative controller and get it working again so I can ramp boost in as well. If I cant get that controller figured out I will have to just turn it down on the manual one until I can line up a new EBC.

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

Related but unrelated: I had a friend with a couple of the innovative controll boxes sitting on a shelf in his shop. I borrowed one and swapped it out with mine and re installed the EBC. Drove around and the boost controller worked flawlessly... untill after about 15 mintues. The car again only made four pounds of boost.

This tells me the main controller is not the issue. The only thing left really is the selenoids - or the map sensor that the EBC runs off of.

I bench checked the selenoids. They click but the plunger moves ever so slightly in both. I am curious if once they get warm they are having issues. Next step to to try and borrow a set of selenoids and see if that fixes the issue with the EBC.

--- hooked the manual controller back up after my testing - all worked well with it installed.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

If the solenoids run off the typical freq range you can probably substitute a the MAC valve commonly used with standalone systems. They are compatible with the apexi, profec etc as well... It's about $30 shipped.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAC-Boost-solenoid-valve-BCS-35A-AAA-DDBA-1BA-like-apexi-profec-aem-Honddata-AD-/221416669493?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item338d764135&vxp=mtr

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

Yeah i may give it a try. I actually jsut went ahead and re installed mine but moved them to inside the cabin. Maybe not being int he underhood heat will be enough to keep them working. I will go test when i can - rain storm at the moment

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

Well gave it a test with the noids inside the cabin. It did not help. After an aloted amount of time the controller again only allowed 4 lbs of boost to be made.

HOWEVER...

When the boost controller went to 4 lbs I pulled over and swapped out the control box to the other one that I borrowed. The car would then build boost again with the other control box installed. After around 5-10 mintues. It also stopped building boost and only made four pounds.

Long story short, I give up. Only going to run the manual controller and see what I can make happen with it. I am sure down the road I will shell out the cash for a EBC once again.

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

Sounds like the solenoids have issues and are drawing too much current t and overheating the drivers

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

Well a little update.

I have been rocking the manual boost controller at 10ish pounds and enjoying the car. However in true fashion i again had a few issues. I noticed when driving the car i had a slight miss. At first it was only during a pull at the top of second and in higher rpms. I spaced it off and convinced myself it was in my head. Eventually, i started to feel the miss driving though town and the car had become hard to start. I was supposed to be going to the track Friday, so i did a few simple things in hopes of it fixing the miss then set out to the track

The track is an 1/8th mile strip thats located about an hour and a half away. I drove the car to the track, swapped tires, ran the car, and drove it home. As far as the drive to and from the track goes, the car did great. Didnt get hot, trans temps were great, and doing 70-75 i was turning right at 3k rpms or a tick over. Now... at the track

At the track, the car did not perform anywhere near where it should have. My quickest pass was a 7.15 @ 99 mph. Lets forget the time, but my MPH should be more then that. I would expect around 110mph with 10ish pounds of boost as i was running. Out of the passes they were all consistent 99mph. Also, while sitting in the staging lanes, my AFRs were high 17s and maxing out the gauge. Well, i get home and deiced to pull the plugs and do a compression test. Something has to be up with the car to trap that low of a MPH and my AFRs being so lean.

I pull off the downpipe and its obvious what my issue is/was.




And this is the entire bank on the downpipe side.



I have replaced the wires and re routed them to run down from the plugs, to the back of the motor and then up and over to the coils. I will see how this does and hopefully they will not bake again and cause issues. now the car fires up without issue and air fuels are exactly where they are supposed to be. This was defiantly my issue. i think one cylinder was not firing at all. (#8). It will be interesting to see how the car does now firing on all cylinders.

Here are a few more pics from the track.

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

I replaced my plug wires with Accel's ceramic booted spark plug wires. I read that the boots are good to 2k degrees and the wires themselves are good to 600 degrees. I also put a sleeve over the wire to help protect them from the heat. I have been running them for about three short 20 minute drives and no issues as of yet.

With that hopefully figured out I moved onto tires. I test fit a friends 28x10.5 ET Drag's on a 15x10 inch wheel. They rubbed slightly on the arm of the suspension. However it was so slight I went ahead, bought the tires off of him and put them on my 15x8 inch wheel. This decreased the section width and now I have close to a 1/4" of clearance on the inside suspension. From fitting his before, I also noticed that the tire fit pretty well height wise, but would rub on a hard launch. Thus, I put in a set of rubber spring spacers on each side. It did nto change ride height, but would help the coils not compress as much on launch. We then went out and took the car for a test drive. Here is a pic of how the car sits:



We also strapped a GoPro on pointed at the rear wheel. This is the car on a quick launch, no burnout, 18psi in the tires, and asphalt with a 180lb passenger. Sorry for the rotated camera, but it did the job.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=efU6...ature=youtu.be



The video showed some rub on launch but tucked up nicely. Once back to the garage, I pulled the wheels off and switched the spacers. There were a 1.25" spacer and now are setup for a 1.5" spacer. I believe with the extra 1/4" of the spacer and no passenger the car would be able to launch and not rub or even just kiss the fender ever so slightly. I will strap on the go pro and do a full on prep, burnout, launch tonight with the GoPro again. Hopefully all goes well and the race tire setup will be complete.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Man all this great footage people are getting with the gopros these days… jerks are gonna make me buy one!

Are your front struts adjustable? What all is adjustable on your IRS setup? Anyway to adjust the roll center? Would be better to plant the tires harder which would actually raise the rear and eliminate your problems all together without goofy ride heights. Bunch of good articles floating around on IRS anti-squat techniques.

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

I have NOTHING for suspension. its all the stock mazda componets in the front and in the rear all is stock mazda except the diff and the upgraded axles. I really do need to get something with adjustability front and rear, but I have no clue whats even available for the FC or even where to start to look for information or the correct products.

Is there anything that can be done with the stock suspension to help with Anti squat or the roll center? I mean I could see swapping out a part or two, but I cant justify building a whole new rear and four link setup at this point.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Not much available for the FC in the way of drag suspension. Most fabricate something to use an existing aftermarket strut. The Lakewood 80’s camaro struts can be fabricated without much trouble. I actually have a set of 90/10 lakewood camaro struts new in the box I’d sell you cheap if your interested

AGX makes cheapish adjustable front and rear struts for the FC. Set on full firm the rears may help fight some of that squat. I had these on the front and rear of my FC originally. Ended up removing the front AGX set and going back to the OEM struts up front. The AGX’s wouldn’t allow the nose to come up quick enough to transfer weight well on my setup. (may be a good thing in your case). Went from a very boring looking 1.5x to 1.4x with wheelies when I put the worn out OEM struts back up front. 90/10s were going to be my next upgrade, but I sold the car.

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

What were you running for springs on the KYB AGX shocks when you had them? Maybe my next step would be swap out my rear shock setup and see what happens with the fronts the same as stock. If the transfer is still to much, then add the fronts to slow the upwards movement.

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

Went out again tonight with the new spring setup. Tires did not seem to rub. if they did its just barely kissing. I feel quite conifdent in running them wihtout issue. We took another video with the GoPro, but the bad lighting made it very difficult to see anything. However, i did a second launch when leaving our test spot. It makes for an amusing video. The car is on around 12 psi. You can see on the gauges that i left on the trans brake at around 5 psi.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4rpx...ature=youtu.be

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

It was a perfect day to go out for a cruise yesterday so the fiance and i took out the RX7. Had a blast in it. Ran up on three bikers and may have challenged the 1000 to a quick run. Long story short, i had him by about three cars -------- Before smoke entered the cabin, a studder from the motor, and a smoke trail that looked like the *** end of a rocket came from my car. As the car proceeded to die, i coasted into a parking lot popped the hood, and saw a nice size fire in the bay. Luckily, i had an extinguisher. Grabbed it, and put the fire out. Here is a pic while i was waiting for a rescue.




I got the car home, let it sit for the night and tore it apart today. Here is what i found

Intake once removed:



Cylinders 1-3-5-7 with the head removed.



Cylinder 5





The head off that same bank:






bent pushrod on #2 intake valve:



Passanger side bank after head removal:



Motor out and Oil pan removed:







Inside the oil pan with the tray removed:





Parts pile:










Thats it folks. We will see what comes of the build. I will go through parts and clean them up this week. See whats usable and what is not. Not sure what bottom end i will go with or if my heads will be saved.


PS... I beat the bike :-)