oscs

iTrader: (19)

Make a bracket and order some longer wires, problem solved. Car looks great btw

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

One of my main issues will be hood clearance though. Not sure how far up i can get them moved. I would love to move them inside the cabin still. I know i have a spot right inside the firewall to mount the coils on teh passanger side. Not sure about the driver side though. Also, dont know what the rule is on how long spark plug wires could be before it has an ill effect on performance

oscs

iTrader: (19)

I don't know the formula behind it but I know that you want to keep the coils as close to the spark plugs as possible. If you have the hood clearance and dont mind the look I would move them closer to the fuel rails as that would probably be the easiest option

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

If they go inside the cabin they would be in sets of four still. One on the driver side and one set on the passanger. they would also be right on the other side of the wall so it would be a straight shot out the wall and to the coils. When I think of the old distributer style motors, the plug wires would be about the same length. I do agree with you though that short as possible is the correct way to go. However I also believe that if you upgrade the diameter of wire, then it should do better with the longer distance.

All that being said, I believe we are going to do some logs and start upping the boost on it tonight. I will rock the heat shield until the weekend or next week and then I will start on relocating the coils. Weather they get moved up or into the cabin I am not sure. I will need to look at my hood clearance options and go from there. Moving them up a bit would be a lot easier then inside the cabin, however I still run the risk of then overheating if they are still in the downpipe area.

oscs

iTrader: (19)

In for results

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

I wouldn’t’ worry about wire length too much. I run the old 98 fbody coils with autozone cheapo LT1 long plug wires. Never had a spark issue. Even at 25lbs of boost on E85…

Not saying shorter isn't better, just that longer seems to work fine for me. (also looks like crap though I know...)

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

Well it seems as if i keep chasing my tail on different theories and issues. Voltage issue was fixed, the heat shield is still on the car and is keeping the coils cool. SO... we go out to turn the boost up. Long story short, the car makes six pounds as supposed to and is data logged. We then drive for a ways and about 15 minutes later we try another pull. the car only made 4 pounds again. We try multiple pulls and still the car only makes four pounds. I shut off the boost controller and WHAM 6 lbs (spring pressure) turn the boost controller on and 4 lbs. Obviously my boost controller is having issues. After the car warms up or after a certain amount of time (not sure which) the boost contoller is not controlling boost and wont let it build more then 4 lbs.

Well, sicne we cant turn up the boost we went to a car show. The car cooled down for a couple few hours. Leaving the show, i turned the boost controller back on and turned the boost up to 8 lbs. Did a pull and Whala 8 lbs of boost.

To recap, after the car runs for awhile the controller will not let it build more then four lbs of boost. Shut the controller off and it runs on spring pressure fine. When the car is first started and driven ( for about 10 minutes) the boost controller will work perfectly.

Anyone have any theories on this? Controller itself is inside the car in the glove box. the solenoids are under the heat shield on the side of the car where the computer is located... Anyone have any thoughts?

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

I ended up pulling the boost controller off the car and replacing it with a manual controller. I now turned the boost up to 9-10 lbs and this thing pulls like a champ. I went to a local car show today and all went well with the boost. A friend of mine runs the dyno at the shop, so he chose my car as one of two to go on the dyno for demo purposes. On a superlfow dyno (known in the area as a heart breaker) the car put down 513hp / 660Tq. The curve or lack there of was amazing. It built boost at around 3500 and held pretty much a straight line all the way across the rpm range. I will see if i can get a copy and post it up. There is still a ton that can be done tuning wise. its way rich and i am sure some timing could be adjusted. I will get the tune lined out and get it turned up to around 15lbs and see what becomes of it.

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

I noticed when the car was out on the interstate that it was getting a little hot. I believe it was because there is not good way for air to get to the radiator. The opening only catches the bottom so most air woudl go under it. here is a pic



I built a small diverter panel to help funnel the air up after it goes through the intercooler. I am hoping this helps get more air to the rad and will keep the car a little cooler. Pics:

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

I had the same issue on my Fc build. How much CFM are your fans pulling? I'm able to cool my 5.3 with a 14x14" core "half radiator". I run the ford taurus fan. Pulls something like 3800cfm on low and 6000 on high. Bigger fan may be your best option. If you end up running one read up on the amperage requirements. They are ridiculous.

There is always cutting the bumper too. it helped my FC quite a bit. I ended up running a taurus fan on it as well though in the end.

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

I am currently running the Contour fans. I cant remember the exact number but I know they pull a crap load of CFM. I also have a 180 stat that I am wanting to swap out to a 160 stat. Just the little things that I think will give me a little help.

I am curious how hot does yours run? In town driving and on the highway?

The opening in your bumper doesn't look bad. If things don't improve or I start seeing some major issues, I may go that same route. It looks as if it would be a giant help.

I believe its a little odd that its cooler in traffic and at low speeds around town then on the interstate. I think that when on the highway, the airis moving to fast under the Rad. for the fans to catch it and pull it up through it. Hopefully this diverts / slows it down enough for the fans to do their job.

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

You need to work on other areas besides fans if it won't cool. Fans shouldn't even run at all on the highway

You have plenty of fan

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

I agree that I have plenty of fan. And its not getting horribly hot either. Just noticed it getting more warm when driving at high speeds. However, I believe my fans do still run on the highway. I don't have any wheel speed sensors or anything of that nature for the computer to know how fast the car is going. I will check tonight. We should be out doing some logging and a little bit of changing of the tune. Hopefully get it moved up from 10lbs to the final 15lbs as well.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

What temps are you seeing at idle and cruise?

I made a similar little chin spoiler/diverter on my talon and blocked the space between the rad and IC with foam rubber. Mine stuck down in the airflow a good 2” below the radiator. It did fix my cruise overheating issue.

FWIW The LS engines were meant to run hotter than most “car guys” consider normal. I thought my C5 was over heating until I read the service manual. I’m not saying you should run yours this hot, just that 210-230* shouldn’t hurt anything. This is straight from the 99 C5 FSM.

My white rx7 setup is horrible. It seems to cool just fine though so I’m happy with it. I run the newer low profile (LS7 I think) water pump, no thermostat, and a freeze plug in the aft (high side) thermostat hole. Usually sits at low 180s. On really hot days I don't see much over 190* sitting in traffic with the fan on high. I haven’t had it in upper 90’s+ yet this year. At night I can usually get temps down to the 170’s in 70-80 degree weather sitting in the staging lanes before a pass. I literally have no ducting and the intercooler is directly in front of the radiator. Roughly 6” between the two. If I don’t have the fan on while cruising it slowly climbs over 200*. So I know it’s the fan that’s making up for my poor design. Do you know what CFM the contour fans flow?

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

The contour fans are a single speed fan and flow +- 3500 CFM. The temps I see are not horrible by any means. I see 185 sitting in traffic and around town. I have been on a couple short interstate jonts and they were getting up to around 205+ Nothing to be horribly worried about, but curious what may happen on a longer trip on a hot day.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

I wouldn’t sweat it personally. Those temps seem great. Ideally you want temps around there to keep moisture out of the engine anyway.

If wired to 14+ volts the Taurus fan reportedly flows 6000cfm on high for comparison and around 3500 low.

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

Honestly I don't think I have room for the Taurus ones. Its a tight fit and the contour fans barely fit. However, if things do get warm, I will look into making the tarus one fit.

At what temp on the interstate would you say is to hot? What temp should I start worrying at?

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Taurus is a single fan, 2 speeds. If you trim the fan out it’s about 3.5” deep.

Yours is done and looks great. I wouldn’t do a thing unless you see over 225-230 on the highway. If the first OEM fan on the LS1 doesn’t kick on till 226* I can’t imagine those temps are harmful in anyway. Just don’t do any lengthy boost pulls at those temps.

Maybe have that deflector stick down in the airflow a bit more. Did you seal off areas between the Rad and IC?

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

This is an 80* day. No fans running


I fought cooling issues for a long time till I started over from square one and focused only on cooling. Only way I could overheat it now is unplugging the waterpump

Ducting into the radiator is your good friend. But what a lot neglect or don't realize is how much high pressure in the engine bay will do to efficiency. To work right you need low pressure in the engine bay to promote to pass through the radiator easily.

Forward hood venting does this but so does a simple spoiler under the radiator to develop a low pressure area behind it

Think about it, you have a engine bay clogged with a ton of stuff. You need to help the air evacuate


.

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

I have not sealed off the area between the rad and the intercooler yet. I will be looking into that next. Hell I have not even driven it after I put on this little diverter under the Intercooler.

So I should not worry until I see around 225.... I also understand the no in boost pulls at this temp. Definitely makes since there.

I do have a TII hood in the garage waiting to go on. Do you think that the stock TII scoop would help lower some the pressure in the bay?

I was also told to remove the weather strip at the back of the hood. It was simple so I did that as well. Don't know if it will help any.