Phish806

iTrader: (5)

Well i talked to a few people and got a few things lined out. It looks like my injectors will be dropped shipped to me today. Hopefully i will have them Wed. Once i have the injectors, i will get them thrown on along with finish the fuel lines on the rails then the car should be mechanically complete.

I also got talking to Ryan Mitchell about a tune. It looks as if the tune date will be May 10th. He will be in town tuning some others, so i jumped on that band wagon. So hopefully we will have it all lined out and tuned in two weeks. Cant wait to see how it all works together and how everything works together.

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

Finnished up alot of things last night only to add coolant to the system and have a leak from behind the water neck. I had to pull the radiator and everything in the front of the car to get it fixed. It was a minor set back but i should have everything back together tonight. Hopefully water tight this time.

I am still waiting on injectors. I was told they will arrive today. However, i am not so sure. Tracking info does not look promising. Either way, I am still close and still have other things to finnish up and do. I cant wait till i can set it on the ground and post some pics and vids here in a week or so.

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

I got the engine bay back together. It went quicker then i thought. I wrapped up a few loose ends as well. I welded in the 02 bung for the wideband and got the exhaust back on the car.



I also got the inlet on the turbo routed to the fender well. It came out ok, but not the best in my opinion. It should get me some cool air though.



Put the wheels on and got the car back on the ground. Man i cant beleive how low it sits. When its on jack stands for months, you forget what actual ride height is. Here are a couple of shots with the new wheels. I really like the look





Still no injectors. Maybe tomorrow if i am lucky... we shall see

93camaro_zzz

iTrader: (13)

Lovin the stance on that thing! She should fly!

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

Thanks. I couldn't agree more on how it sits. I think the stance is pretty much perfect.

Unless any unseen issues arrive, first start-up will be Monday. fingers crossed.

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

I got my injectors. I had a few issues figuring out what spacers to run along with a few other things to get them to fit with the LS3 intake and the Holley rails i was running on my old setup. However, i finally got them installed and the fuel lines all ran with some help from a few friends of mine. I threw the fuses in the lines to the fuel pumps, gave the system pressure and whala - no leaks.

Had another friend of mine load the tune onto the ecu that was sent to me by Ryan. Once the fuel got the the front of the car, it fired and ran without any real issue. Very pleased on how its all come together.

I went through the gears sitting in the garage to make sure the trans works. (new trans, you never know) It shifts smoothly and goes in all directions. It seems as if its in good shape and no issues at all. EXCEPT - i cant seem to ready the damn dipstick with the Hyguard fluid. I think i have it a tad overfull actually, but hopefully no harm no foul.

Once i get the tranny fluid sorted out, i need to finish getting some coolant in it. Rad is full, but its rather tricky to get all the air out of the system with this setup and how it all sits in the car. Have to jack up the front with it running and all that good stuff.

I also was able to pull it out of the garage and give it a quick wash. Definaly looks good out in the sun. Excited for the tune on sat. I am sure i will do a little street driving here this week to make sure it works mechanical wise.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Looks great! Congrats...

I usually run a 2qts of type F with the hygard so I can see it.

If you get one of those huge radiator “burp funnels” you don’t need to jack the front of the car to the moon or anything. Just let the coolant level back flow into the huge funnel. The level will come up to the highest point in the system. Real easy to see when the air is all out as well, takes a surprising amount of time to get it all. Then you just plug the funnel and remove it.

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

I may pull some fluid out of the trans and then add two quarts like you suggested. I woudl rather be sure about it then just a guess.

Also, i like the funnel. Where can i grab one of those? Any parts store?

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

Well, got all my fluids in it and topped off. I ordered some hood struts to keep the hood open since I cant find the strap to actually install my hood prop correctly. Other then that, a friend of mine is going to be over tonight to play with the tune and get it driving. It will be nice to get some heat in it and a few miles on it before the tune tomorrow to make sure everything functions properly.

Tomorrow I shall have some numbers from the dyno and a vid or two. Should make for a good day and a fun night. Anyone have any guesses on numbers? Most likely will be tuned to 15lbs.

aknovaman

iTrader: (7)

749 rwhp.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

What kind of dyno?

I'll go 685 on a mustang dyno...748 on a dynojet

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

Yesterdays tuning day was a long long day for all the cars that were on the dyno. We were there for over 12 hours. EVERYONE was having issues.

As far as my car goes, Someone was broke on the dyno. So Ryan and i went out and did some driveability/street tuning. After workign through the tune, we were pulling to 3 lbs quite rapidly and got it all worked out. We upped the boost controller to 6 lbs, and the car would not go over 3lbs. (spring pressure). I had convinced myself to swap out a spring. The boost controller needs to see 3lbs of boost before it will take over and start controlling boost. In theory, it was not seeing a full 3 lbs to start taking over.

After tthe spring change, which took forever by the way due to wastegate placement, the car went on the dyno. We did a couple pulls to six pounds. Now, there was starting to be a miss when boost comes on. Increased the dwell settings for the coils and this fixes the miss. Pulls to 6lbs now without an issues. Grab the boost controller and up the boost to 10 lbs. On the next pull, the boost controller takes over like it should and 10lbs of boost is created. However the miss is back and a full pull cant be done. Long story short, it comes down to the plugs, I have the plugs gapped way to wide (not sure where i got my info from) so i need to grab a new set and gap them at 24.

Since i cant do a plug change on the turbo side without it taking an hour or two, we decided to just run it at six pounds, later this week i will swap the plugs, and we can do an email tuning session to raise the boost and get things up to par at a higher boost level.

Another issue Ryan noticed is that the voltage of the car is at around 12.7ish when at idle. It also drops to 12.0ish when doing a pull. That was a another issue that may be contributing to spark blowing out. Does anyone have any theory on this? Maybe just a grounding issue or a weak alt?

Long story short, the car put down 501 whp 496 Torque on 6lbs of boost, (dynojet dyno) I was pleased with this number. For only six pounds at the moment, i will take a tick over 500 whp.

Here is a short video i snagged (link below). Nothing impressive but i almost forgot entirely

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

How do you have the alternator wired? Sounds like it isn't working at all to me... Depending on the year/alt used their are some annoying tricky alternator wiring requirements.

I believe the "B" terminal (small red wire on mine) going to the alt plug needs some type of resistance on it, whether it is supplied by the PCM and idiot light, or a 470 ohm 1/2 watt resistor.

If you do not, the alt will work poorly for a short time (kinda like yours perhaps?) and then it burns out. I learned this the hard way as well...

I only have the one wire going to the alt connector now(with a resistor inline). I believe you can hook up an additional voltage sensing wire too, it lets the alt know the state of charge and will regulate voltage better. Without it, mine seems to default to 13.4v all the time.

Great numbers for low boost!

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

I had an issue with the alt when i bought my first swapped car before i built this one. They had it wired up wrong so it would charge with the RPM of the motor. It ended up frying the battery on the way to the track one night.

I am running the same harness. Since then, i have fixed the wiring by adding the resister. I believe its just the one wire now but i would have to check.

I remember last winter the car read 14.x when driving. then to help a friend, i pulled off the alt and let her run it. Then, she jsut bought me a new one to replace mine. the new alt has always only put out around a high 12 when driving. I believe the alt is from a 2002 chevy 1500...

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

Well I have been trying to track down the issue with voltage. I swapped out to another stock 105 amp alt I had laying around and it had no change. Thus, its not a bad alt. I temporarily ran a 0 gauge cable from the alt case to the negative on the battery. It had no effect on the voltage in the car either so I am pretty sure its not a grounding issue.

I believe that its just the fact that the 105 amp alt can not keep up with all of the electronics on board now. When the car starts and idles, it has a mid to high 13 voltage readout. As all the fans start coming on the voltage steadily drops. If its night and the headlights get turned on it drops a ton. More electronics more voltage drop.

My quick solution to this was head to Orileys and grab the 145 amp alt from a stock 1500 Silverado. Bought one, got it home and I realized it will not physically fit. My hot piping wraps around the alt. The 145 amp alt is a half inch larger and would hit the pipe. Thus, the alt was returned.

Now, my solution is a Power Bastard alt. They use the stock 105amp case so it should be the same physical size. They put out 110 amps at idle and 220 when turning some RPM. I think this shall me way more then enough to get the voltage up. Hopefully it will be here today or tomorrow so I can get it installed and tried

Also picked up a set of Hoosier Quick Time Pros. 27x10.5x15. Hopefully they will allow me to hook this thing up when in the throttle. Time will tell.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

I can’t imagine you are running 105 amps. Add up your approx amp draw and figure it out. 105 amps should be more than enough I’d think. I run a 40a fan (which is huge) 16-20a fuel pump, lights, fuel injection etc and I’ve got more than enough. What pin do you have powered with the resistor in the alt. weather pack plug? Something else has to be off.

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

I swapped out the resister to a light. It actually helped a bit with the voltage at idle. However, when I start turning things on, it still drops horribly.

I am running Two electric fans for the radiator, one fan for the trans cooler, electric boost controller, Two AEM fuel pumps, five aftermarket gauges, plus all of the stock items. it takes its largest hit when I turn on the headlights and or the blower motor for the heat.

In talking with a friend this morning, I had another thought that it may be the wire going to the main fuse box. tis a 4 Ga wire. Maybe this wire is to small to feed the box, car. I have 0 gauge from the bat to the cut off switch, then 0 gague from the cut off to the starter. I use that starter as a distribution point and have 4 ga going to the main fuse box from there. I also have 4ga going from the alt to the kill switch in the back. Fuel pumps are fed power directly from the cutoff switch. Its hard to believe the 4ga is to small of a wire to feed the main box. However i suppose it could be.


(Exciter wire would be "B")

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Thats how I have mine wired. I made them test the alternator before I tried it because so many people burn them up and take them back. Still sounds like you have a bad alternator to me.

Could try it like this... that should let the alt know the voltage is low and it needs to charge.

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

I swapped out the alt to a second one that I know is a good working alt to no avail. I really don't think its the alt being bad. It will put out decent power all day long as long as just one of the fans is on and no headlights are on. Then the other two fans kick on, along with headlights/running lights come on for night time and it will not come out of the 11's when full throttle.

Phish806

iTrader: (5)

I will take the alt that I pulled off in to have tested just to verify.