Metal vac/boost lines
Metal vac/boost lines I've seen a lot of guys running metal lines to the wastegates, and bovs. I think it looks way cleaner, and that's the way I would like to go.
So my question is, what size/type of lines are you guys using, and what kind of fittings do I need, and where can I get them.
Thanks guys!
So my question is, what size/type of lines are you guys using, and what kind of fittings do I need, and where can I get them.
Thanks guys!
Teching In
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
If you're doing steel lines Summit has a cheaper kit.
http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...0311/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...0311/overview/
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If you're doing steel lines Summit has a cheaper kit.
http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...0311/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...0311/overview/
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I purchased stainless hardline in a coil and have been plumbing with it using Aeroquip AN fittings. You can use anyone's fittings as long as they are AN or JIC (steel) spec. 3/8 line is used with AN -6 fittings. 1/2" is AN -8.
For flaring, I'm using a mastercool 71475 hydraulic flaring tool and the 37 degree die set. You can get away with a manual flaring tool but on stainless it can be a beast. Not impossible though. Leverage is key.
For bending, I have a set of swagelok benders. They do a nice job but are $$$. Ridgid makes a decent hand bender for less. Be sure to get tubing thick enough for a manual bender. I found out the hard way that for 1/2" SS tubing, 0.035 is the thinnest my bender will work with or the tube collapses (need a mandrel bender for the thin stuff). My swagelok benders will do 180* bends very nicely with the right gauge tubing.
Here's a few examples of what I'm doing including the home made tubing roller/straightener which is pretty much necessary when working with coiled tubing.
For flaring, I'm using a mastercool 71475 hydraulic flaring tool and the 37 degree die set. You can get away with a manual flaring tool but on stainless it can be a beast. Not impossible though. Leverage is key.
For bending, I have a set of swagelok benders. They do a nice job but are $$$. Ridgid makes a decent hand bender for less. Be sure to get tubing thick enough for a manual bender. I found out the hard way that for 1/2" SS tubing, 0.035 is the thinnest my bender will work with or the tube collapses (need a mandrel bender for the thin stuff). My swagelok benders will do 180* bends very nicely with the right gauge tubing.
Here's a few examples of what I'm doing including the home made tubing roller/straightener which is pretty much necessary when working with coiled tubing.
I purchased stainless hardline in a coil and have been plumbing with it using Aeroquip AN fittings. You can use anyone's fittings as long as they are AN or JIC (steel) spec. 3/8 line is used with AN -6 fittings. 1/2" is AN -8.
For flaring, I'm using a mastercool 71475 hydraulic flaring tool and the 37 degree die set. You can get away with a manual flaring tool but on stainless it can be a beast. Not impossible though. Leverage is key.
For bending, I have a set of swagelok benders. They do a nice job but are $$$. Ridgid makes a decent hand bender for less. Be sure to get tubing thick enough for a manual bender. I found out the hard way that for 1/2" SS tubing, 0.035 is the thinnest my bender will work with or the tube collapses (need a mandrel bender for the thin stuff). My swagelok benders will do 180* bends very nicely with the right gauge tubing.
Here's a few examples of what I'm doing including the home made tubing roller/straightener which is pretty much necessary when working with coiled tubing.
For flaring, I'm using a mastercool 71475 hydraulic flaring tool and the 37 degree die set. You can get away with a manual flaring tool but on stainless it can be a beast. Not impossible though. Leverage is key.
For bending, I have a set of swagelok benders. They do a nice job but are $$$. Ridgid makes a decent hand bender for less. Be sure to get tubing thick enough for a manual bender. I found out the hard way that for 1/2" SS tubing, 0.035 is the thinnest my bender will work with or the tube collapses (need a mandrel bender for the thin stuff). My swagelok benders will do 180* bends very nicely with the right gauge tubing.
Here's a few examples of what I'm doing including the home made tubing roller/straightener which is pretty much necessary when working with coiled tubing.
