John Deer Hy gard Trans Fluid?
#21
LS1Tech Sponsor
iTrader: (10)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
LOL, prob 500-600+ degrees testing with twin 88s with 111mm turbine wheels and a little 427. It is tuff to make 25psi on the line with a big tire car hahahaha! ProTorque helped us solve that problem and we even had a tighter converter down track to boot! Now we never get it over 300 degrees!
#22
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
18lbs, th400 with an older eBay "redneck" nitrous 3500 stall, 3.23 gear. Went 10.3 @ 128 with %34 slip. The std hygard dropped flash stall speed from 3500 down to about 3100, definitely cruised better, but not much on top. You can't expect it fix a converter that is that inneffcient on the top. Getting a ptc this winter.
#24
8 Second Club
iTrader: (12)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
LOL, prob 500-600+ degrees testing with twin 88s with 111mm turbine wheels and a little 427. It is tuff to make 25psi on the line with a big tire car hahahaha! ProTorque helped us solve that problem and we even had a tighter converter down track to boot! Now we never get it over 300 degrees!
Thats awesome it never even gets above 300 now, I had trans problems but had to make passes to figure them out that's why it was always 250-300 now its a chilling 220 on the street......
#27
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I am going to switch to the Hy-Gard from the Walmart Supertech ATF and see how it does. My converter could use a little tightening and if this works, great.
Sorry to ask a different question, but is it imperative that you completely flush the trans, converter lines of the regular ATF when making this switch?
Sorry to ask a different question, but is it imperative that you completely flush the trans, converter lines of the regular ATF when making this switch?
And like others have said, it will tighten it up at cruising, but I never noticed a difference when hitting the traps
#31
TECH Apprentice
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ive used both types of JD fluid in my S10 and have smoked the fluid a few times. One time was really bad. Fluid was black and smelled like dead animals. The clutches and steels always looked good though.
Just dont want everyone thinking its some kind of majic oil. Hot lapping, and setting up my bump box (getting up on the brake 3 or 4 times within a few minutes) is what killed the fluid
Just dont want everyone thinking its some kind of majic oil. Hot lapping, and setting up my bump box (getting up on the brake 3 or 4 times within a few minutes) is what killed the fluid
#32
TECH Resident
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: K.C.
Posts: 813
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I know this trans guard is varies a lot batch and causes lots of problems on their loaders it very hard on seals john Deere cannot decide if it is worth it in their own equipment at one point they recommended another manufacture in my loader due to it also holding heat
#33
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I think theres a lot more to it then this....I haven't played around with more than a street car the last few years but when I ran SSO with Manny Buginga we tried the tractor fluid and burned it up quite a bit seeing temps as Hellbents10 did, I would put the car up on pro-jacks as soon as it came into the pits and take temp readings and the convertor would be in the 400-500 F range even after 4-5 five minutes from scaling etc. This was 04-05 and we were making around 1800 horsepower and seeing 23 psi on the brake at the line with a single 91mm. Our tranny guy said using tractor fluid was kind of a bandaid to not having the right convertor at the time we had a bolt together neil chance deal and it took some time but we finally got the right convertor set up and the trans temps dropped dramatically, even more so when when we tested the aluminum and titanium covered convertors and moved the tranny cooler to the ice tank.... later on on some of the other SSO cars we were actually using a seperate pump and resevoir to remove the hot fluid and replace with cooler fluid so that the car reacted the same on the line because as others have said things will change with heat.... as for breaking planetaries I thought that was a thing of the past haha we switched to what was being used in the monster trucks 10 years ago and never hurt another set or output again.... even when we were at the 2200 HP range going 7.06 @ 206 in a 3100 pound car
#37
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
What?
#38
8 Second Club
iTrader: (4)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ive used both types of JD fluid in my S10 and have smoked the fluid a few times. One time was really bad. Fluid was black and smelled like dead animals. The clutches and steels always looked good though.
Just dont want everyone thinking its some kind of majic oil. Hot lapping, and setting up my bump box (getting up on the brake 3 or 4 times within a few minutes) is what killed the fluid
Just dont want everyone thinking its some kind of majic oil. Hot lapping, and setting up my bump box (getting up on the brake 3 or 4 times within a few minutes) is what killed the fluid