incon users....another question..noise
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 7,903
Likes: 1
From: Cleveland, OH
incon users....another question..noise After driving my car around the block a few times and getting 3-4psi at 75% throttle, I noticed a "pshhhhhh" sound when I let off the gas. Almost like a BOV. I wonder if this is the turbos or a hose leak with the built up pressure. With the wide open Borla, you can hear the turbos even at idle while in park. Hoses seem tight but this "pssshhh" sound has me wondering. Never driven a stalled auto before...maybe it's the Yank. Next thing I gotta do is get all the damn oil out of the pipes/intercoolers. The power wire for the scavenge pump came undone 
Man it smoked like a freight train for awhile!!! I'm thinking of undoing the butt pipe....and the compressor hoses and reverse flush with water. Any help?
Man it smoked like a freight train for awhile!!! I'm thinking of undoing the butt pipe....and the compressor hoses and reverse flush with water. Any help? 
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Las Cruces, NM
Originally Posted by cablebandit
so you are saying you hear/have heard this same "psshh" with the incon? Thanks for the reply 
Gary
I run my borla wide open as well - doesn't it sound sweet? 
Oh, on the scavenge pump power line...where did the line come off? I am finally getting around to fixing the rinky-dink setup supplied by incon and the installer, where the sense wire from the fusebox to the relay is connected to a fuse by a small lead. it's prone to falling off. I'm going to use the "etc" fuse location by putting in another lead/wire from a junk fusebox - that way there will be no issue with it falling off.
While on this subject I'm very happy to report last weekend I discovered what has been draining my battery ever since the turbo install at Detroit Speedworks (r.i.p.). They reversed the sense lead with the power lead, and viola', created a permanent 140miilliamp drain on the electrical system. Granted I don't drive or work on the car very much so it took me a long time to discover this. I have a page of turbo install fuckups I've corrected so far.
Oh, on the scavenge pump power line...where did the line come off? I am finally getting around to fixing the rinky-dink setup supplied by incon and the installer, where the sense wire from the fusebox to the relay is connected to a fuse by a small lead. it's prone to falling off. I'm going to use the "etc" fuse location by putting in another lead/wire from a junk fusebox - that way there will be no issue with it falling off.
While on this subject I'm very happy to report last weekend I discovered what has been draining my battery ever since the turbo install at Detroit Speedworks (r.i.p.). They reversed the sense lead with the power lead, and viola', created a permanent 140miilliamp drain on the electrical system. Granted I don't drive or work on the car very much so it took me a long time to discover this. I have a page of turbo install fuckups I've corrected so far.
Last edited by DaveSchott; May 13, 2004 at 09:02 PM. Reason: i can't spell!
Launching!
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 289
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From: Wallingford, CT
All is normal as is described above. Just keep the questions coming. This is a support group.
Boy does it ever look like the end of the world when the oil pump stops pumping! I pitty the fool who's behind me.
Boy does it ever look like the end of the world when the oil pump stops pumping! I pitty the fool who's behind me.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 7,903
Likes: 1
From: Cleveland, OH
i got the positive wire from the pump to the one lead in the fuse box under the hood...it's labeled ignition I think. I unplug it when doing a ls1edit and forget to plug it back up. Sense lead....powerlead...what do you mean? The two wires on the alternator?
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I was just BS'ing with the guys at the local Ramchargers and they hooked me up with a Painless Wiring fuel pump kit. It comes with a 30 amp relay and ton of wire. All you do is tap it into the power and the on signal and connect it to the pump. It has a ground strap in it too. Pretty nice setup. I plan on tapping it into the fuel pump fuse under the hood for the remote on.
-Geoff
-Geoff
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Originally Posted by cablebandit
i got the positive wire from the pump to the one lead in the fuse box under the hood...it's labeled ignition I think. I unplug it when doing a ls1edit and forget to plug it back up. Sense lead....powerlead...what do you mean? The two wires on the alternator?
A relay has usually 4 and sometimes 5 terminals. the switching or sense Circuit is #85 & 86. Power through it activates a coil that switches the power circuit, #30 & 87 - the sense circuit uses very little current so most any 12v signal will work. When power is going thru the sense circuit, 30 & 87 are connected, allowing 30-40 amps of power to flow. on a 5 terminal relay there is a terminal 87A. When the relay is NOT powered 30 & 87A are connected.
I'm sure my car's situation was fairly rare. just basic installation screwup.
Last edited by DaveSchott; May 14, 2004 at 08:38 PM. Reason: correct spelling
Originally Posted by red ws6 99
The sense line for the oil pump relay goes to the A/C fuse. It can go to any fuse or circuit that only has power when the key is in the on position.
Gary
Gary
Gary, That is how mine is now. I really don't like how the wire attaches to a spade adapter that slips under the fuse. So am going to rig up the unused "etc" fuse and run the wires in from the bottom. less likely to malfunction and leave one stranded.
Did you hear about the setup elmer had done to his? I plan to do this when the car has some serious down time. He added an oil pressure sense switch in front of the relay, so the scavenge pump doesn't activate until the engine is running. With that setup it's not necassary to pull a fuse or wire when using ls1edit. I really hate the pump running when the engine isn't.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 7,903
Likes: 1
From: Cleveland, OH
THAT is a good idea cause my dumb *** always forgets. Maybe use a window switch...comes on at 400 rpm or something. I'll have to check if Harlans WS can be setup like that.
Originally Posted by cablebandit
THAT is a good idea cause my dumb *** always forgets. Maybe use a window switch...comes on at 400 rpm or something. I'll have to check if Harlans WS can be setup like that.
cablebandit - I guess as long as the window switch activates WAY BELOW the normal idle speed. Does the Harlan WS allow settings that low?
If so, it's a much better setup imo then tapping into the oiling system.
Originally Posted by DaveSchott
He added an oil pressure sense switch in front of the relay, so the scavenge pump doesn't activate until the engine is running. With that setup it's not necassary to pull a fuse or wire when using ls1edit. I really hate the pump running when the engine isn't.
What do you guys think about those solderless jumpers that just piggyback the wires? I was going to try one of those for now, but I am unsure how durable they are.
-Geoff
Originally Posted by White_Hawk
If you put your sense lead on the fuel pump power wire, wouldn't that accomplish the same thing? The pump should prime when you key it up, but only stay on if the car is running. That was what I was planning on tying into.
What do you guys think about those solderless jumpers that just piggyback the wires? I was going to try one of those for now, but I am unsure how durable they are.
-Geoff
What do you guys think about those solderless jumpers that just piggyback the wires? I was going to try one of those for now, but I am unsure how durable they are.
-Geoff
Yep, only thing wrong with that idea is I didn't suggest it
damn good idea. I don't know exactly what the solderless jumpers look like but if it's made for tapping in it s/b OK. Maybe use a few wraps of a good electrical tape on top of it to keep it put and keep out moisture.
Originally Posted by DaveSchott
I don't know exactly what the solderless jumpers look like but if it's made for tapping in it s/b OK. Maybe use a few wraps of a good electrical tape on top of it to keep it put and keep out moisture.
-Geoff
