TWIN TURBO S366 WS6(Mrstepheneades new build, redoing everything)
#1
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Twin S366 TA (new owner Tick Performance)
Starting a new thread for this total makeover im doing to the car. Everyone seen I did have very good luck with my stock engine lol. Figured id leave the old thread for the stock car stuff. Time to change directions while still remaining a combo street/strip car. I have removed the engine/trans and sold most. I will continue to post as many pictures as I can of my progress because information I have gathered from many on here has really helped me progress my knowledge of this stuff and I want to continue passing on the experience. Here are some refresher pictures of the aftermarket things that's been purchased so far for the new build.
Quick Performance Fabricated 9" rear with 35 spline Moser axles and 5/8 wheel studs.
Spohn Pro Series Chromoly Torque Arm with cross member and driveshaft loop.
Quick Performance Fabricated 9" rear with 35 spline Moser axles and 5/8 wheel studs.
Spohn Pro Series Chromoly Torque Arm with cross member and driveshaft loop.
Last edited by mrstepheneades; 10-25-2015 at 03:14 PM.
#3
Do you plan to modify the torque arm or the mounting bracket? I have read that running both adjustable pieces causes one to eventually break. I ask because that's the exact rear setup I would like to order and just want to see all the torque arm options people use for it.
#4
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I thought about it as well. Not like I plan to have the torque arm mounting bracket rod ends run way out. If anything I need to run them all the way in if possible because they are not near as large as the ones on the torque arm itself. Let any adjustments made be by the torque arm alone. that's my plan anyway I should have all the remaining pieces here in my hands within the next week and a half to completely installed my rear then I will know exactly what has to be done.
#5
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That's the torque arm mount with the two rod ends on it. The other pieces are the back braces for the rear. Yes the Spohn arm is a beast.
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#12
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Yes I know lol. That's why im doing it. This will still be as much street car as it was before. Just with some added safety and a lot more power. Wife says leave the back seats in for the baby we expecting in less than a month. She will be probably at least a year old before this car runs again though.
#13
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8 point is good to 10.0. You would need a 10 point or better to be good to 8.50. (Roof halo and down bars either through the dash or in front of it.)You will not need a knee bar though because you did not modify your factory firewall. 12 point would put the front bars through the firewall to the engine bay.
#14
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8 point is good to 10.0. You would need a 10 point or better to be good to 8.50. (Roof halo and down bars either through the dash or in front of it.)You will not need a knee bar though because you did not modify your factory firewall. 12 point would put the front bars through the firewall to the engine bay.
#15
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8 point is good to 10.0. You would need a 10 point or better to be good to 8.50. (Roof halo and down bars either through the dash or in front of it.)You will not need a knee bar though because you did not modify your factory firewall. 12 point would put the front bars through the firewall to the engine bay.
MWC I am pretty sure knows the rules on cage certs. There are a few bars that don't need to be there in our cars as factory firewall and rear quarters are there.
#16
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Well I'm ordering tomorrow. 10pt chromoly with billet swing outs on both sides. Told me it would be 6-8 weeks before I got it.
#17
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Ordered my cage today. $1325 shipped to my location in NC. OUCH!!!!! But you get what you pay for and I wanted the best of the prefabbed I could get.
#19
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FYI, what I was trying to say before is an 9.99 to 8.50 cert cage is still considered a 10 point. That bar you don't need behind the dash because you have a stock firewall is called the knee bar. It is not considered a point because it doesn't connect to the chassis, just between the 2 bars coming off the halo.