68 Chevy II Build
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 132
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Thanks guys, ya the KB is an awesome design. He will change things up on the original truck design also to fit your needs for your car.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 132
Likes: 0
Holley EFI users I have a question on the main power for the ECU. The instructions are adamant about direct connection to the battery but I had to add a kill switch when I put the battery in the trunk. So should I hook the power supply up after the switch or will the power being killed to everything else be sufficient for tech inspection? Thanks, Joe
The car is very close to being fired up, could be this weekend if everything goes smoothly....
The car is very close to being fired up, could be this weekend if everything goes smoothly....
The kill switch needs to kill the engine. They will test that.
I power the ECU from the batt cable that gets shut off.
I run the alternator wire all the way back to the battery side of the switch. If you don't do that, and connect the alternator to the shut off side, the alt will supply voltage and the switch won't shut off the car.
Also, I use 6 ga wire from the alt to the batt. It will drop too much voltage otherwise.
Ron
I power the ECU from the batt cable that gets shut off.
I run the alternator wire all the way back to the battery side of the switch. If you don't do that, and connect the alternator to the shut off side, the alt will supply voltage and the switch won't shut off the car.
Also, I use 6 ga wire from the alt to the batt. It will drop too much voltage otherwise.
Ron
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 132
Likes: 0
Well I got her fired up tonight. It sat here and idled for about 2 mins and then I gave it a little throttle and it stalled. Now it will only stay running if I keep the throttle open. Went over everything and can't find any leaks etc. was pulling good vacuum at idle. Not sure where to go from here....
as it warms up, it goes thru diff fueling, so until tuned it can act diff-did you do the TPS reset? very important
you may have to open your throttle, and do a reset
they tell you to try and get it warmed up, then you can look at your CL Comp., see if its trying to add/sub. fuel-you want to try and get the main fuel table as close to what the engine wants, so the orange ball isn't hunting all over the place-same with the timing-I turned my learning off until around 1500 RPM, man. tune it for idle, off idle
you can light up several squares in the area its idling, use your arrow keys to add/sub. fuel by %, push the orange ball so it doesn't move around, stabilizes-I went thru some frustrating times trying to understand this stuff,
def got some great help-heck, they can remote right into your laptop, SI FI stuff, lol
you may have to open your throttle, and do a reset
they tell you to try and get it warmed up, then you can look at your CL Comp., see if its trying to add/sub. fuel-you want to try and get the main fuel table as close to what the engine wants, so the orange ball isn't hunting all over the place-same with the timing-I turned my learning off until around 1500 RPM, man. tune it for idle, off idle
you can light up several squares in the area its idling, use your arrow keys to add/sub. fuel by %, push the orange ball so it doesn't move around, stabilizes-I went thru some frustrating times trying to understand this stuff,
def got some great help-heck, they can remote right into your laptop, SI FI stuff, lol
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Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 132
Likes: 0
Thanks guys, I gave it another shot this morning and got it to idle fairly well. Then my Mallory FPR sprayed fuel like a damn fire hose everywhere. I took it apart and the diaphragm was barely clamping on one side and let loose. So I have a thermostat housing leak, cracked trans cooler fitting, faulty regulator and no tach signal.... So I have some figuring out to do before running it again. But she sounded real good and made me very happy to hear it finally run.
Teething problems! Glad you didn't have a fire.
Work out those few issues, you will be driving it in no time!
And look at it this way, you found the issues in the driveway, not on the road somewhere.
Ron
Work out those few issues, you will be driving it in no time!
And look at it this way, you found the issues in the driveway, not on the road somewhere.
Ron
Thanks guys, I gave it another shot this morning and got it to idle fairly well. Then my Mallory FPR sprayed fuel like a damn fire hose everywhere. I took it apart and the diaphragm was barely clamping on one side and let loose. So I have a thermostat housing leak, cracked trans cooler fitting, faulty regulator and no tach signal.... So I have some figuring out to do before running it again. But she sounded real good and made me very happy to hear it finally run.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 132
Likes: 0
Well I put about 100 miles on the car today, it is absolutely perfect to me. It does everything right so far. I'd like to give a big thanks to Stock48 for getting me setup with an excellent combination of turbo, cam/valve train and converter. The car makes 7lbs on the foot brake (no 2 step) with pretty much no tuning other then a startup file ( thanks to Beanslsxnova). So I'm slowly adjusting the tune taking small steps so I don't screw this up. Hopefully I'll be able to get the track by the end of September.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 132
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I'm not sure,I'll pay better attention today and post it up. When I was out on my drive when I would roll on the throttle it would light off fast. So when I got home I pumped up the brakes and rolled into it and I was fighting to hold it back 7lbs. My wastegate spring is 7lbs also and I have no controller just have the hose from the turbo to the gate. I'm going to take a video today and put it up for you guys. Also this turbo is a 96 1.10 T4 and I knife edged and gasket matched the twin scroll because the KB log is not divided. I guess the theory behind the larger wheels with tighter A/R definitely holds water on this project.
