TT LQ4 questions
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Teching In
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TT LQ4 questions So I've been thinking about this build for a while and I've already read and researched a ton about it. At first I was shooting for around 700whp eventually, but start for maybe around 500whp with basically a stock long block (and possibly stock cam?). My initial question is what kind of boost pressure would I need on a stock engine with nothing except basically turbos (76mm most likely), truck manifolds, injectors, a tune, and associated piping? I would be running an front mount intercooler and 91 octane, I know most depends on the tune but overall what kind of boost would I need for 500-550whp initially, and then later 700?
Before I turn it up for 700hp I plan on putting in at least an LS6 cam and better valve springs, as well as an Edelbrock Pro Flo XT intake.
Also as a side question: what kind of torque would I see at these two power levels? I plan on having a built T56 and 12 bolt eventually but I've seen some builds with around 700hp pushing upwards of 900ft/lbs or torque or more so would I need a drivetrain that can handle almost 1000ft/lbs to be safe?
Thanks
Before I turn it up for 700hp I plan on putting in at least an LS6 cam and better valve springs, as well as an Edelbrock Pro Flo XT intake.
Also as a side question: what kind of torque would I see at these two power levels? I plan on having a built T56 and 12 bolt eventually but I've seen some builds with around 700hp pushing upwards of 900ft/lbs or torque or more so would I need a drivetrain that can handle almost 1000ft/lbs to be safe?
Thanks
Last edited by NewSpin; Aug 14, 2014 at 06:58 PM.
On The Tree
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From: West Palm Beach, FL
500 rwhp will be around 10 psi and 700 rwp will be around 15 psi. Torque should be about the same. 500 or 700 will kill the rear, drive shaft and transmission if you launch it hard or beat on it.
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Teching In
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I haven't been able to find as much info as I'd like on it but would it be better/cheaper to have one from like an F-body built up or just get a new one from Tremec or American Powertrain or the like that's rated for 700ft-lbs? How long would a stock pull-out last (with little to no abuse hopefully, but no promises...) with the 10psi/500-550hp?
From what I've found people say it can last just fine but other people have killed them with less than 350whp?
I wouldn't be messing around too much with the lower boost first stage of the whole build so I wouldn't mind running a stock one as long as it's not going to grenade any second, I just don't want to be on the ragged edge. I will go fully built later on obviously.
My original plan was to use a stock one for the first stage then go built with the next stage but try to use the same trans but have it built up.
From what I've found people say it can last just fine but other people have killed them with less than 350whp?
I wouldn't be messing around too much with the lower boost first stage of the whole build so I wouldn't mind running a stock one as long as it's not going to grenade any second, I just don't want to be on the ragged edge. I will go fully built later on obviously.
My original plan was to use a stock one for the first stage then go built with the next stage but try to use the same trans but have it built up.
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From: Norn Iron
Really depends what fitment you need.
If you need an FBody fitment, then it will have to be a custom from some of the builders as Tremec still hasnt released the FBody specific Magnum.
But you dont mention usage, what vehicle it's going in, what weight etc etc
But when a Magnum can be bought from around $3-3500...really, they do represent superb value.
They are better in every respect than a basic T56 and you'll likely pay $1000-1500 for one of those second hand of unknown condition ?
Although a basic TR6060 would probably work well too..again depending on what actual fitment you need.
But talking about buying a T56 then uprating it....waste of money. Just buy a Magnum.
Unless you buy the likes of a Tranzilla...it'll never be a match for the Magnum. It isnt just about strength, it's quality of components, shift mechanisms etc. The Magnum is just far superior.
If you need an FBody fitment, then it will have to be a custom from some of the builders as Tremec still hasnt released the FBody specific Magnum.
But you dont mention usage, what vehicle it's going in, what weight etc etc
But when a Magnum can be bought from around $3-3500...really, they do represent superb value.
They are better in every respect than a basic T56 and you'll likely pay $1000-1500 for one of those second hand of unknown condition ?
Although a basic TR6060 would probably work well too..again depending on what actual fitment you need.
But talking about buying a T56 then uprating it....waste of money. Just buy a Magnum.
Unless you buy the likes of a Tranzilla...it'll never be a match for the Magnum. It isnt just about strength, it's quality of components, shift mechanisms etc. The Magnum is just far superior.
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Teching In
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Sorry, I thought I'd mentioned it:
-67 Buick Special (Skylark) ~3400lbs right now with the 327 w/ cast iron Vortec heads and a new T10
-Plan to swap in an 02+ LQ4 with aluminum heads, stock long block, truck manifolds, twin 76mm turbos, and a T56 of some sort (what sort exactly being part of the purpose of this thread)
I'm hoping to be at about 3600lbs or less with the swap done, the 3400lb figure is with the stock bench seat and such and eventually I'd like to upgrade things like suspension for some lighter weight parts but it will be steel body and hood, rear seat will stay in, definitely getting bucket seats, might add a small cage or roll bar as needed with ET requirements but we'll have to see.
I plan on being able to run high to mid 10's max, don't really want to push it further than that, I've seen 3800+lb Chevelles run basically mid 9's in the 1/4 with less power than I plan on having with close to the same type of setup so it'll be interesting reigning it in.
The whole plan with the build though is to be able to save money wherever I can, not by using Chinese parts and stuff but things like using truck manifolds and such where I can. I said an F-body trans more because they are more plentiful overall, also the fitment on my T10 is already almost 4" further back than the stock 3 speed and from what I can tell an F-body T56 isn't much further back.
Even though I'd be able to afford a pull out engine and turbos and such, I might not be able to drop over 3 grand on a Magnum so that's why I'm exploring how far I could get with a stock type T56.
-67 Buick Special (Skylark) ~3400lbs right now with the 327 w/ cast iron Vortec heads and a new T10
-Plan to swap in an 02+ LQ4 with aluminum heads, stock long block, truck manifolds, twin 76mm turbos, and a T56 of some sort (what sort exactly being part of the purpose of this thread)
I'm hoping to be at about 3600lbs or less with the swap done, the 3400lb figure is with the stock bench seat and such and eventually I'd like to upgrade things like suspension for some lighter weight parts but it will be steel body and hood, rear seat will stay in, definitely getting bucket seats, might add a small cage or roll bar as needed with ET requirements but we'll have to see.
I plan on being able to run high to mid 10's max, don't really want to push it further than that, I've seen 3800+lb Chevelles run basically mid 9's in the 1/4 with less power than I plan on having with close to the same type of setup so it'll be interesting reigning it in.
The whole plan with the build though is to be able to save money wherever I can, not by using Chinese parts and stuff but things like using truck manifolds and such where I can. I said an F-body trans more because they are more plentiful overall, also the fitment on my T10 is already almost 4" further back than the stock 3 speed and from what I can tell an F-body T56 isn't much further back.
Even though I'd be able to afford a pull out engine and turbos and such, I might not be able to drop over 3 grand on a Magnum so that's why I'm exploring how far I could get with a stock type T56.
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Verdad Gallardo 9 Second Club
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From: Norn Iron
I would say more than likely a good T56 will do all you need. But if you're starting with nothing, and are going to end up buying a used T56....
Really, a new Magnum is only $3k. That really isnt a lot of money for what you're getting.
Unless you can find a good rebuilt or uprated T56 from the classifieds or something for a lot less...the Magnum is superb value and should almost guarantee you never need to look at it again.
Also by sounds of things, you want a shifter position further forward than a typical F Body T56 ?
Whilst they call these Magnums Chevy/LS, no idea why, as even most rearward shifter position is still 3" forward of an FBody
http://www.ddperformance.com/chevy-t...num-lsx-sb-bb/
http://americanpowertrain.com/c-3205...ose-ratio.html
Plus you can then buy whichever unit fits you best and with a choice of ratios.
Really, a new Magnum is only $3k. That really isnt a lot of money for what you're getting.
Unless you can find a good rebuilt or uprated T56 from the classifieds or something for a lot less...the Magnum is superb value and should almost guarantee you never need to look at it again.
Also by sounds of things, you want a shifter position further forward than a typical F Body T56 ?
Whilst they call these Magnums Chevy/LS, no idea why, as even most rearward shifter position is still 3" forward of an FBody
http://www.ddperformance.com/chevy-t...num-lsx-sb-bb/
http://americanpowertrain.com/c-3205...ose-ratio.html
Plus you can then buy whichever unit fits you best and with a choice of ratios.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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Well I meant in my 67 A-body where the shifter is now, compared to the original 3 speed, it's almost 4" rearward than it was, a stock T56 should come out to about the same location from what I can tell and that should work great. Do you mean that a Magnum would be further forward than that?
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From: Norn Iron
Some Magnum info
http://www.rodauthority.com/tech-sto...reet-or-strip/
With the off the shelf Magnums, at least on what they call the GM LS platform, the further rearwards shift position they offer is still 3" further forward than an FBody.
Standard T56 or 6060 unit
This site offers some shift position options
http://www.southernperformancesystem...-dims.html#t56
Magnum shift positions
http://www.rodauthority.com/tech-sto...reet-or-strip/
With the off the shelf Magnums, at least on what they call the GM LS platform, the further rearwards shift position they offer is still 3" further forward than an FBody.
Standard T56 or 6060 unit
This site offers some shift position options
http://www.southernperformancesystem...-dims.html#t56
Magnum shift positions
Thread Starter
Teching In
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I'd found that first chart previously, but thanks for that second one.
There seems to be lots of shifter options though it looks like, so it looks like I should be fine with fitment.
I think I've got pretty much all the info I need now, thanks everyone.
Pretty much gotta decide which one to go with, but I think I'll just wait and save for a Magnum.
There seems to be lots of shifter options though it looks like, so it looks like I should be fine with fitment.
I think I've got pretty much all the info I need now, thanks everyone.
Pretty much gotta decide which one to go with, but I think I'll just wait and save for a Magnum.