I have hard time with mt TTiX kit i put red and black springs in the Tial wastegates wich should give 14.5 psi as stated in Tial website
the problem that the car build around 23 psi of boost around 4000 rpm which force me to stop the run
the car has AEM tru boost controler connected as in the manual
spring pressure set to 11.5 as stated in the manual
the duty cycle in A setting is 10% but this will make no difference even if i put the controler to off the car make the same 23 psi of boost

Any help will be appresiated
Thanks in advance

 

Draw a schematic of exactly how YOU have the w/g and solenoid/controller plumbed up.

With any external electronic controller turned off, this should yield the lowest achievable boost level for your setup, and how you have the control system plumbed up.

But as there are many ways to configure it, we'd need to know exactly what you've done before attempting to diagnose.

But the short answer is it could be either the gate, the plumbing, the solenoid, the controller...really, any part that is within the entire control system


And obviously it would be worth checking the gate is mechanically capable of working when pressure is applied.

 

Thanks a lot for your quick response
It is connected as in the attached picture

 

Take the pipe off the turbo compressor.

Apply known pressure to this pipe with the AEM turned off.

Both gates should open at approximately spring pressure.

If they do not, either the gates are seized, you do not have it plumbed correctly, or the solenoid is not working.

That line should be connected to a port that is closed when no voltage is applied to the solenoid

 

The problem in this kit in the Vette i may have to drop the k member to reach the pipe which connected to the turbo
I will check each W/G separatly
that will be easy for me

 

Doing that will test one aspect.

The reason I ask to do my way, is because it will test both the gates and your attachment to the solenoid as well as the solenoid itself.

If you can clamp the line from the turbo compressor so it doesnt leak, and tee into the pressure signal elsewhere, this will do the same job.

But if you can pressure and visual test as installed, it is much better given your problems.

 

Just unhook the ports at the dome with just the reference hooked from bottom port to compressor housing. See what it does. This eliminates the boost controller entirely. If it is still making too much boost, then it's not the controller. And you can continue to narrow it down.

If the noid is normally closed when off, the dome port is blocked and therefore even though no positive pressure is being introduced, it's still trying to compress the air behind the valve which will cause it to make more boost.

 

It will be a 3 port solenoid.

If the compressor side is N/C, then the other two will be Common and N/O so freely vented to atmosphere when de-energised.

 

Didn't see the diagram and that it's a single noid system. I'd still eliminate the controller and see what it does on wastegate before doing anything else.

 

What are the specifics of the kit. How many cubes? What turbos? What size gates? Picture of location on pipe? Have you tried taking out one of the springs? Just because they are rated at 14.5 psi doesn't mean that they make 14.5 psi in every setup.

 

I agree, but testing as I described would eliminate a few variables in one go.

Controller turned off, solenoid de-energised should be lowest base pressure. ie spring pressure, give or take a little, if it is plumbed correctly and as per that drawing.

IF...

 

Yeah, hopefully he doesn't have a 4 way where they intersect in the diagram.

 

Why don't you remove the black or red spring from each wastegate to start. You should always be able to turn the boost up with the controller once you get it sorted out. Also, It looks like that kit comes with F38 wastegates which didn't have a black spring. What wastegates do you have?

 

i have MV-S

 

replace the solinoide and checked all hoses using a smoke pressure tool every things seems fine
then unpluged the waste gates and checked if they are working by applying pressure they was fine
then finally applyed a known pressure to check when they are open and find they start to open at about 22 PSI
so the problem from the springs is rated wrong
so i removed the red springs and put the greens so now i have black and green
when applyed pressure they open at nearly 14 PSI which i need
i will test the car and let you all know
but i have one more question
if my springs rated to 14 psi could i adjust the boost controler to decrease the boost to 10 PSI ??

 

Generally speaking no. But as there are many variables at play, a 14psi spring might just yield around 10psi.

But it would be mechanical limitations causing it, nothing to do with the controller itself.

If you want a lowest setting of 10psi, then you really need to use 10psi springs and take it from there.

 

ok tryed the car yesterday
the boost came down to 19 PSI
so it seems there is some thing in my setup yeild to more boost than expected by the wastegates springs
Now i need to keep just one single spring ( maybe 8 PSI spring ) which i think will make around 10 PSI
tben i will use the boost controler to increase the boost

But what in my setup could make the boost more than the springs desired boost ?
i have full 3" pipes but 2.5 axle back
could it be the back pressure ?

 

There are lots of variables and it doesn't really matter. The rating on the spring is for the amount of pressure it takes to open it not that it makes that much boost. If you ever switch to CO2 control on the WG, you'll see that it takes more CO2 to effect boost pressure as you climb the map. So you might find that adding 5 psi of CO2 on the gate (on top of your 7 lb spring) might make 15 psi of boost but it'll take you another 10 psi of CO2 to get to 20 psi of boost.

 

It's because of how you have the controller, ie w/g's and solenoids plumbed.

You have not plumbed them in a manner where you will be able to achieve that lowest base spring setting.

Connect compressor signal line to Port 3
Connect bottom chamber to Port 2
Leave Port 1 vented.
Leave top chambers vented to atmosphere.

You're basically configuring it as an internal gate style plumbing. Unless you have very high levels of exhaust backpressure this will give you all the control you need, and your 10psi setting.