Starting out on a 5.3 Turbo setup for my 96 Z28...
#61
Yeah. I laugh and shake my head about being so naive on this "$650 JY 5.3 swap". I wanted to pull the 6 yr old LT1 out to have it refreshed, even though she still runs great. So, remembering all the great reports about taking bonestock jy 5.3s and boosting the snot out of them, I'd thought I would try it while the LT1 was getting new timing chain, lifters, springs, etc. I've already well eclipsed what a refresh (heck, a complete rebuild) of the LT1 would have been because of all the retro-fitting of the infrastructure of the car to accomdate the LSx platform. Then, the machinist kept nudging me to upgrade this and that. Hahaha... Now ending up with a new forged 5.3 motor at the end of the process. But, I'm kind of eager to see what this setup will do. The shortblock of the 5.3 is being bored, honed for the Wiseco forged full floating pin pistons as we speak, the rotating assembly balanced and the Isky Triple 12 cam degree'd in. It will have a full chassis dyno tune before it's driven anywhere.
Last edited by mightyquickz28; 12-13-2014 at 07:32 AM.
#62
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hahaha escalates quickly! Im sure you will love the change! Plus who cares about LT1's anymore, not the internet that's for sure lol. I just laugh bc I have a $150 2005 5.3L short block and wastegates that cost 5 times the price. I also plan on building a 5.3L on the side after I get mine going.
Jay
Jay
#63
In truth, I did figure that into the equation when contemplating the 5.3. I reasoned, "Hey, once this is all setup, I can buy another 2005+ 5.3 and just put it in the garage, all bagged up, for future use if I pop this one". There are so many 5.3 and 4.8's out there.
hahaha escalates quickly! Im sure you will love the change! Plus who cares about LT1's anymore, not the internet that's for sure lol. I just laugh bc I have a $150 2005 5.3L short block and wastegates that cost 5 times the price. I also plan on building a 5.3L on the side after I get mine going.
Jay
Jay
#66
I was going to polish the stock 5.3 valve covers at first.
I took a picture of one of them as they came off the 90K motor.
As taken off...
After letting them soak in Kerosene for about 3 days, I used a solvent brush to knock off the accumulated, baked on oil/dirt. After drying them, I took one into the basement and took a 'coarse' sanding sponge up and down one side 100 times. Same with Medium and Fine. Then I took a small 1/4" drill powered buffing wheel and some buffing compound and went against that same area to see what improvements I could get.
Closest edge sanded and buffed a little.<br/>
A little closer....
Close up...
And for contrast as to what the metal looked like before I started...
Unaltered Valve cover texture...
But then I scored these today
Used but in good shape. I'll be buffing these too
I took a picture of one of them as they came off the 90K motor.
As taken off...
After letting them soak in Kerosene for about 3 days, I used a solvent brush to knock off the accumulated, baked on oil/dirt. After drying them, I took one into the basement and took a 'coarse' sanding sponge up and down one side 100 times. Same with Medium and Fine. Then I took a small 1/4" drill powered buffing wheel and some buffing compound and went against that same area to see what improvements I could get.
Closest edge sanded and buffed a little.<br/>
A little closer....
Close up...
And for contrast as to what the metal looked like before I started...
Unaltered Valve cover texture...
But then I scored these today
Used but in good shape. I'll be buffing these too
#67
Mocking up the tentative fittings and feed/return lines routing.
Looks like I need to order a couple of -8 180 degrees for the front of the rails to go to the FPR. I can use the 90 degrees currently on the front at the FPR. Not sure if the FPR with the FP gauge on top will fit between the stock Z28 hood and the manifold. I have a -8AN "Y" for the back side of the rails that will accept the feed line. The -6AN beneath the FPR will return the fuel to the tank.
What do these go to?
What do these go to?
Looks like I need to order a couple of -8 180 degrees for the front of the rails to go to the FPR. I can use the 90 degrees currently on the front at the FPR. Not sure if the FPR with the FP gauge on top will fit between the stock Z28 hood and the manifold. I have a -8AN "Y" for the back side of the rails that will accept the feed line. The -6AN beneath the FPR will return the fuel to the tank.
What do these go to?
What do these go to?
#68
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Mocking up the tentative fittings and feed/return lines routing.
Looks like I need to order a couple of -8 180 degrees for the front of the rails to go to the FPR. I can use the 90 degrees currently on the front at the FPR. Not sure if the FPR with the FP gauge on top will fit between the stock Z28 hood and the manifold. I have a -8AN "Y" for the back side of the rails that will accept the feed line. The -6AN beneath the FPR will return the fuel to the tank.
What do these go to?
What do these go to?
Looks like I need to order a couple of -8 180 degrees for the front of the rails to go to the FPR. I can use the 90 degrees currently on the front at the FPR. Not sure if the FPR with the FP gauge on top will fit between the stock Z28 hood and the manifold. I have a -8AN "Y" for the back side of the rails that will accept the feed line. The -6AN beneath the FPR will return the fuel to the tank.
What do these go to?
What do these go to?
2nd picture, big port is brake booster vacuum, small port is anything that needs manifold vacuum ( a/c doors, vacuum reservoir, etc. The hole on the top is for a MAP sensor.
#75
Tentatively, I'm running 2 short lengths of PTFE -8 back to the FPR which, depending on my bracket making skills, will be towards the middle/back of the intake.
I'd *like* to have the FPR sitting on a bracket, Fuel pressure gauge port up, with the adjustment nut pointing towards the front of the car, to ease adjustment duties. The -6 return line port would be pointing straight back towards the firewall, where it would descend and travel back to the tank.
My -8 PTFE feed would travel from the tank, thru a high capacity filter, meeting a 3 way -8 Russell Y that would feed both sides of the rails from the back entry. Based on this diagram roughly, it's just that instead of the FPR being at the front of the engine, it would be tucked out of the way towards the back of the intake.
I'd *like* to have the FPR sitting on a bracket, Fuel pressure gauge port up, with the adjustment nut pointing towards the front of the car, to ease adjustment duties. The -6 return line port would be pointing straight back towards the firewall, where it would descend and travel back to the tank.
My -8 PTFE feed would travel from the tank, thru a high capacity filter, meeting a 3 way -8 Russell Y that would feed both sides of the rails from the back entry. Based on this diagram roughly, it's just that instead of the FPR being at the front of the engine, it would be tucked out of the way towards the back of the intake.
Last edited by mightyquickz28; 12-27-2014 at 02:02 PM.
#76
Bit of a hiccup. My machinist has had a lot going on (death in the family, break in at his dads house in another state, etc) and this resulted in some confusion. I had planned on using the stock 5.3 heads. However, when he ordered my wiseco pistons, he apparently thought I was going with LS6 heads. The comp ratio would be too high with the 5.3 heads and these pistons. So now I'm on the hunt for a decent pair of LS6 Heads. He thinks he has a resource for a pair. I should know more tomorrow. I'm dropping off the Isky Triple 12 cam and various other pieces tomorrow. I'm also taking the new Fbody oil pan to him to have a -10An drainback bung welded in.