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don't be scared of pro comp/ebay head studs

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Old Feb 3, 2015 | 08:01 PM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by Kmspeedie
have fun with that..
You mean you've never blown a head off??
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Old Feb 3, 2015 | 11:15 PM
  #82  
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Every time my brother comes to visit , he says "shhhh, I think I just heard another one of your China studs snapping....."

I just wish ARP would lower their price. id bet they could sell a lot more and maintain the same profit margin.

I torqued my pro comps to 75. Lost a head gasket due to a poor surfacing job on my heads.

Next time around did the same 75, put two complete heat/cool cycles and retorqued one stud at a time loosening and tightening. I took them to 78.
I didn't note any that seemed loose.

I'd sure have preferred ARP. But the pricing pissed me off.

I believe Thompson Motorsports makes studs? They are rarely mentioned.

Ron
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Old Feb 27, 2015 | 12:47 PM
  #83  
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Was hoping I would have the same luck. One head went good, the stud on the second head snapped before I got to 80ft/lbs. Picked up one replacement arp stud and will go back at it once it comes in. LQ4, 317s, LS9 gaskets and plenty of arp lube.
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Old Jun 14, 2015 | 05:52 PM
  #84  
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I'm about to put my ls1 back together. Nothing too radical...may go with a 224/224 14 to 16 lsa and that's about it. N/A engine. Do you think this head studs torqued to 70 will be safe? I expect they may not be as good as arp but should be better than GM bolts. So kind of a trade off? I like the idea of more accurate torquing as compared to bolts. Thoughts anyone?
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Old Jun 14, 2015 | 06:18 PM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by waxenate
I'm about to put my ls1 back together. Nothing too radical...may go with a 224/224 14 to 16 lsa and that's about it. N/A engine. Do you think this head studs torqued to 70 will be safe? I expect they may not be as good as arp but should be better than GM bolts. So kind of a trade off? I like the idea of more accurate torquing as compared to bolts. Thoughts anyone?
If it was me I'd just buy the stock GM TTY bolts.
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Old Jun 14, 2015 | 06:22 PM
  #86  
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I had a leak around the rear of the drivers use head. I noticed as I was loosening the bolts they were definitely not at the same torque level in that area. Does that happen a lot? The engine had about 150k miles on it.
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Old Jun 14, 2015 | 06:35 PM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by waxenate
I had a leak around the rear of the drivers use head. I noticed as I was loosening the bolts they were definitely not at the same torque level in that area. Does that happen a lot? The engine had about 150k miles on it.
The bolts don't go in blind. They pertrude into the cooling jacket so if thread sealer isn't used I could see it leaking around a bolt. As far as the torque values being different....I haven't experienced that on a Ls when pulling the heads, but mine have all had the heads off prior to me owning them.
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Old Jun 14, 2015 | 08:01 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by HISS
The bolts don't go in blind. They pertrude into the cooling jacket so if thread sealer isn't used I could see it leaking around a bolt. As far as the torque values being different....I haven't experienced that on a Ls when pulling the heads, but mine have all had the heads off prior to me owning them.
Are you saying you need to use thread sealer or rtv on the head bolts? I honestly never heard of this for ls1 stuff. I installed mine with no sealer.
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Old Jun 14, 2015 | 08:52 PM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by 1320king
Are you saying you need to use thread sealer or rtv on the head bolts? I honestly never heard of this for ls1 stuff. I installed mine with no sealer.
I was, but it's my mistake. I used sealant on the bottom row on both of mine lol. Waste of time smh. I guess I'm still used to sbf stuff.
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Old Jun 15, 2015 | 12:26 AM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by HISS
I was, but it's my mistake. I used sealant on the bottom row on both of mine lol. Waste of time smh. I guess I'm still used to sbf stuff.
DONT SCARE ME LIKE THAT
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Old Jun 15, 2015 | 08:26 AM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by 1320king
DONT SCARE ME LIKE THAT
Lmao. I'm typically not in the habit of giving bad advice....I promise.
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Old Jun 17, 2015 | 01:16 PM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by HISS
If it was me I'd just buy the stock GM TTY bolts.
Problem with the TTY bolts is a bolt by design loses alot of it's clamping force due to torsional/twisting forces when torqued.

Even though the TTY bolts have almost identical tensional strength as the china studs, a stud is a better design by nature and will provide better clamping force at the same torque value.

...or so I've heard.
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Old Jun 17, 2015 | 01:27 PM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
Problem with the TTY bolts is a bolt by design loses alot of it's clamping force due to torsional/twisting forces when torqued.

Even though the TTY bolts have almost identical tensional strength as the china studs, a stud is a better design by nature and will provide better clamping force at the same torque value.

...or so I've heard.
That is correct. Studs are stronger and better than any bolt any day. That's why most if not all race engine builders use studs for heads, rod caps and main caps instead of bolts.
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