Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Picked up a set of 317's cheap. Had them surfaced and cleaned. after they were surfaced I noticed a small gouge next to a water jacket. The machine shop seemed to think it would be fine with a tiny amount of copper rtv in that area along with the LS9 gasket. Since it wasn't damaged in the CC area they seemed to think this was not something to worry about? Still makes me nervous.

Closest I can tell with the digital caliper it's like a .004 ish. Think I should find another head? Or not worry about it?

Thanks

stevieturbo

I wouldnt be thrilled about it, but as it's only a waterway to stud hole...just use some sealer in that area.

If you were really fussy, you could fill it with some silver solder or even weld it and file then wet/dry it down to smooth again.
I'd doubt it really needs that effort though.

Beanslsxnova

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't sweat it. I would dab a little copper rtv on there for reassurance and let it ride

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

I filled it with JB weld and block sanded the heads 320/400/600. Much better but I'm still going to call around and see what an actual high speed mill job will cost. I'm not real happy with the belt sanded surface job.

Hard to get a good surface pic with glare... I used a micro fiber towel, but it still left fibers and junk all over the surface on the first pic.

stevieturbo

If you've patience.

I've blocked head/block surfaces before with a flat block and say 400 grit wet/dry paper with plenty of water.
Long strokes back n forward over the surface. Eventually you can get a very very smooth finish.

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

50-70 per head seems the going rate for a good job

jessanator

iTrader: (1)

even after i mill a head i usually hit it with 220 wet then red scotchbrite in a solvent tank to make sure everything is smooth before final assmebly

stock48

iTrader: (17)

I think it will be ok with the Jb weld or dab of rtv; it's not near the fire ring or anything. Looks like a belt sander surface job tho...;/

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

You didn't score a flat plate of alum yet huh?

I did with 400 then 600 and came out very smooth. Remember?

Ron

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

It def. was belt sanded.

I looked everywhere local for a large sheet of alum/steel. Even went to boeing salvage and couldn’t find anything I’d trust as a true straight sanding block. I used a new 9”X4” body sanding block 320/400/600/800. Looks good, but who knows how flat the surface really is. I have a few old straight edges, but nothing I’d trust for a head. Tried to use sunlight, hard to get a pic of such a reflective surface. A buddy owns a machine shop that my old alum 5.3 block has been waiting to be decked at for a few months now. He is upgrading his mill at the moment, may just wait on him. That way I can watch and see how bad of a job the belt sander and my surfacing did.

denmah

iTrader: (2)

i dont see any problem, but you might have already guessed that

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

I didn’t title this thread right… I do actually have a little money in this setup. (forged 370) I’d like to make sure I have flat surfaces at least. Pulling motors mid race season is no fun! Hope to slap this one together without cutting any major corners and keep it together a few seasons.