Mr. Chainsaw

I figured i'd try to pick some of your guys brains as well as some on the truck side. i've got an older side mount whipple i made work on my 08 sierra. i went to get tuned yesterday and the intake temps were just retarded, pun intended...because it's taking out every bit of timing and making this thing a ******* dog. I put in the biggest nozzle that came with my kit (snow pump, lines, nozzles with an aem progressive controller). cruising around temps are 130-170...hammer it and they go all the way up to 220! i'm running 100% meth as well. any ideas? pic for reference

88blackiroc

iTrader: (3)

From what I understand on meth, the water is what cools the intake charge. Methanol only acts as a higher grade fuel. Maybe try 50/50 and see how it works.

mkvamso

iTrader: (2)

Non intercooled blower?

Those things are giant heat pumps when they're spun very fast
Even with a intercooler, giant heat exchanger, and ice tank/reservoir the whipple on our corvette gets stupid hot after a very short time period

It will pull so much timing the car is slower than it was na once it's hot

stevieturbo

Where exactly is the temperature sensor ? And how much meth ? What pump ? What controller etc ?

And how much timing is changed is entirely down to the tuner. Whether it needs any timing changes again, is down to the tuner.

Mr. Chainsaw

temp sensor is in the evap purge port on the intake manifold, in the pic its behind where the red meth line is. i'm running a snow pump 100% meth and an aem maf controller set to come on at 50%

stevieturbo

Big pump, small pump ?

What size nozzle ?

And given the nature of the blower etc...have the meth turn on much earlier and reach full flow very early too.

With no IC or any form of cooling really, you'll want to be spraying a lot, and more often than other setups might want.

As for the meth/water debate. Yes water does cool better per unit volume, especially if temps are very high, but I wouldnt go as high as 50/50. Either way that isnt the problem, you simply need more fluid injected.

If you there are no concerns about the rotors, add a nozzle pre TB as well.

Mr. Chainsaw

yeah, i'll have to set the engagement earlier i suppose, it's just a pain in the dick and don't really want it to come on during normal driving. I was looking into 2 ports one pre and one after to see how it works.

Mr. Chainsaw

and its the 300psi standard pump that comes with the snow kit with a 625ml nozzle

stevieturbo

As airflow is linked to engine load, I see no reason why you couldnt have it set so you drive around all day with it off, and it only come on when airflow is high enough.

If you cannot find a happy medium, maybe a different control parameter might work better.

Whether MAP, IDC or better still a combination of 2 if that's doable with your controller.

TPS might actually be a good one with that type of blower

JoeNova

Why 100% meth? Is this a stock bottom end?

Mr. Chainsaw

because that's what I was told to run. yes it's stock bottom end.

JoeNova

Get some water in there, quick. Cast pistons need the water to stay alive with lots of boost. Water cools far far better than methanol.

stevieturbo

Water cools better per unit volume, and depending on temp it's sprayed into.

But water also has the downside that it doesnt burn. You could try say 70/30 initially, but really for most part it just sounds like you need more fluid injected and at more suitable times.

Mr. Chainsaw

i'm gonna turn the controller down to 25% and take it for a spin and see what happens here in a few minutes.

JoeNova

Water doesn't burn, but you don't have to make it sound like a downside. It increases the effective octane much more than methanol, cools much better per volume than methanol, and then draws out a massive amount of heat when it is converted to steam, which in turns helps keep clean your pistons, rings, and plugs as well as drop their temps dramatically.

Methanol has its benefits over water. It cools the intake charge better as it evaporates faster than water, and it works well as a secondary fuel supply under boost.

Unless you're running an air/water intercooler, forged pistons with thick ring lands, and E85, there is absolutely no reason to not run at least 30-50% water in your mix.

stevieturbo

I've never said it is a downside, just that when you start introducing a lot of water, control over mixture flow becomes far more important.

If you take the same dummy approach with water as is done with 100% meth...ie just dump shitloads in, then you will see a reduction in performance simply because the engine wont want so much water.

Mr. Chainsaw

well, i set the engagement much earlier and temps are definitely down, instead of 220 it was seeing 170, but timing starts getting pulled at 140, i saw at the most 8* and it felt great, i need to dial it in more with the engagement, it bogs down, but I think i'm on the right track. I'll try adding some distilled water in the mix and see if it helps.

ls3fox

Adding water should definitely help also a second nozzel pre blower would help alot as well and you would probably be able to go back to 40% before it turns on

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

You can see the temp sensor in his pic about 6" behind the nozzle. The temps reported with the nozzle that close will be crap anyway IMO.

How much boost is it making? Those temps sound completely normal to me for a small displacement non-intercooled blower. Esp. since you're starting out at 120+.

625ml per min? So like 10gph? Thats not much volume when using straight methanol. straight methanol. Get a "T" fitting and add another 625ml nozzle. I used more than twice that amount on my 3.8 liter.