Opinion on this setup
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Teching In
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Opinion on this setup 
Driver side valve cover barbI have the valve cover line going to the inlet on the procharger and the intake line going to my regulator for boost reference, and then my bad air line is going to the manifold bottom nipple under intake and then the TB is capped off and the bottom line of the catch can has that little air filter with a check valve , a shop set it up this way. Is this correct ? I've looked at damn near every setup and still don't understand the back of the driver side valve cover line setup because it's going to a metal tube that goes along the back of my motor.
Last edited by A Aron; Oct 15, 2015 at 03:11 AM. Reason: Picture add
what car is this on, i'm thinking the hard line to the back is evap, or used to be?
are you open to replacing some/all components or does your budget bind you to use what you have there.
is this car mass air or speed density?
what are your goals with the setup?
-how much hp
-engine breathing?
-oil control?
-do you want to have a pcv system?
are you open to replacing some/all components or does your budget bind you to use what you have there.
is this car mass air or speed density?
what are your goals with the setup?
-how much hp
-engine breathing?
-oil control?
-do you want to have a pcv system?
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
what car is this on, i'm thinking the hard line to the back is evap, or used to be?
are you open to replacing some/all components or does your budget bind you to use what you have there.
is this car mass air or speed density?
what are your goals with the setup?
-how much hp
-engine breathing?
-oil control?
-do you want to have a pcv system?
are you open to replacing some/all components or does your budget bind you to use what you have there.
is this car mass air or speed density?
what are your goals with the setup?
-how much hp
-engine breathing?
-oil control?
-do you want to have a pcv system?
04 gto with d1 its been tuned and the shop that tuned it set it up like this I'm not worried about power at the moment considering I need the pcv and all the lines fixed to get a proper tune it's a maf but the main thing that I have an issue with is that fact that the boost reference line going to the regulator gives my bottom line on the catch can no where to go so I'm assuming the good air escaping into the atmosphere on that little airfilter is fine but it doesn't put good air back into the crank so in other words idk what to do with the last line that has the good air on the catch can (bottom line )
the crankcase blowby is correlated to the amount of *** the engine is kicking, so at some point it will become important.
there is no perfect fix for your needs with the parts you have.
if you run a pcv system with MAF you will pull unmetered air through that valve cover bretaher so:
you can either get rid of the v/c breather and run the catch can between valley and intake, and fresh air from valve cover to s/c inlet - this will be pcv style
or
you can run the valve cover breather and run a line from the passenger valve cover through the catch can do the s/c inlet - this will be draft style
you still need to figure out what the heck is going on with the hard line at the firewall. if it is evap it needs to connect to an evap solenoid down the drivers side of the intake manifold with a 2 pin plug connected to it and then vac hose from the end of the solenoid to the intake manifold.
you can tap for boost anywhere on the intake, its clean to do it at the rear, and there is already one hose you could tap into before you get to the check valves.
there is no perfect fix for your needs with the parts you have.
if you run a pcv system with MAF you will pull unmetered air through that valve cover bretaher so:
you can either get rid of the v/c breather and run the catch can between valley and intake, and fresh air from valve cover to s/c inlet - this will be pcv style
or
you can run the valve cover breather and run a line from the passenger valve cover through the catch can do the s/c inlet - this will be draft style
you still need to figure out what the heck is going on with the hard line at the firewall. if it is evap it needs to connect to an evap solenoid down the drivers side of the intake manifold with a 2 pin plug connected to it and then vac hose from the end of the solenoid to the intake manifold.
you can tap for boost anywhere on the intake, its clean to do it at the rear, and there is already one hose you could tap into before you get to the check valves.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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I thank you so much for the response and working with me but I have 2 barbs one driver side valve cover one is that back one that goes to the hardline and the other is the one in the picture with the screw in the rubber hose, so I guess my question is off my regulator am I tapping the back barb with the hardline or the one with the screw in it? Also my passenger side valve cover line is going to my inlet on my procharger. I got it tuned with that line to the fuel regulator so am I able to take it off and cap off the regulator before like before it was tuned ? Reason why is because the bottom line on the catch can was takin off of the intake port where my boost reference line is going to my regulator.
i dont see a picture with a screw in rubber hose
you definitely need to keep boost and vac signal to the fuel pressure regulator, im suggesting you tie it in somewhere else, like to the vacuum block you have at the brake booster (picture 3) so that the front port can be used for pcv.
you definitely need to keep boost and vac signal to the fuel pressure regulator, im suggesting you tie it in somewhere else, like to the vacuum block you have at the brake booster (picture 3) so that the front port can be used for pcv.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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Sorry this is what I was talking about , and I got off the phone with procharger and they said not to run pcv through my manifold? So let me get this straight
Top foul air line of catch can is in the right spot on the valley port
Bottom will be connected back into the intake port right behind the maf
The regulator line hat goes to the intake ATM for boost reference in the pic will be put where ?
The line on the valve cover port passenger side is going to the inlet side of the turbo
Is this correct ?
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i believe for that can the bottom fitting is dirty air and top is clean. you will need a check valve with that particular can to protect it and the crankcase from boost.
the regulator vac signal should be removed from there and joined at the vac block by your brake booster
the rest sounds good.
the regulator vac signal should be removed from there and joined at the vac block by your brake booster
the rest sounds good.
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Teching In
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So what would be the proper fix considering I have to buy ****. And by vacc block you mean the area where the Hobbs switch is attatched ?in pic number 3 ? Should I just T the regulator line off that area because that's where my bypass valve (bob) is plumbed into as well.
Last edited by A Aron; Oct 15, 2015 at 04:54 PM.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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Is there a way you can call me I'm in a bind with the valley cover option on the onstructions
I have my clave cover fitting e3 going to my turbo
I have the A fitting on the can going to the manifold in line with the maf
I have te valley port going to the other fitting on the can correct ?
5208405386
I have my clave cover fitting e3 going to my turbo
I have the A fitting on the can going to the manifold in line with the maf
I have te valley port going to the other fitting on the can correct ?
5208405386