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Hello, can You help me what will be the best camshaft/ camshaft kit for my LS2 with Magnuson Supercharger ?? The Engine is mounted in BMW driftcar, I don't have any more modifications yet, only 2x2,5" exhaust and stand alone computer.
To save on a lot of supporting mods, I would probably use the ls9 cam/springs. Should be cheap and easy to find, as well. Plus, it's a factory cam, so it has nice, mild lobes... easy on the valvetrain.
When you say 2 x 2.5 exhaust, does this mean you have true dual exhaust with 2.5" pipes? The true dual exhaust is good, arguably a requirement with a positive displacement blower. But you are going to want to increase to 3" pipes, or larger, if it's at all possible. Optimally, you will want 2" primary headers with good collectors (race type with velocity spikes) leading to true dual 3.5" exhaust, with a functional scavenge pipe (X-pipe or H-pipe). I understand that the physical space for such an exhaust system may not be available in your application, but you need as free flowing exhaust as you can possibly get with a positive displacement blower.
To save on a lot of supporting mods, I would probably use the ls9 cam/springs. Should be cheap and easy to find, as well. Plus, it's a factory cam, so it has nice, mild lobes... easy on the valvetrain.
When you say 2 x 2.5 exhaust, does this mean you have true dual exhaust with 2.5" pipes? The true dual exhaust is good, arguably a requirement with a positive displacement blower. But you are going to want to increase to 3" pipes, or larger, if it's at all possible. Optimally, you will want 2" primary headers with good collectors (race type with velocity spikes) leading to true dual 3.5" exhaust, with a functional scavenge pipe (X-pipe or H-pipe). I understand that the physical space for such an exhaust system may not be available in your application, but you need as free flowing exhaust as you can possibly get with a positive displacement blower.
Have you ever seen a Cam Dr. or Cam Pro sheet on the LS9 lobe??
No, I haven't. And I would love to know if I am inaccurate in my statement about it being a mild lobe profile. I cannot recall ever hearing anything stating that the ls9 lobes were in any way aggressive, so I would very much like to know.
I know allot of guys here use the later ls6 cam. On a budget. I would think an ls2 cam would work as well. I wouldn't get aggressive lobes myself. The psi will do that for you and you will get the benefit of a long lasting valve train.
I still think that the ls9 cam would benefit you. Even if the lobes are not as mild as I originally thought, that cam is still a proven performer.
Your supercharger is 0.3bar, or 5psi, so I assume it's the non-intercooled model, is this correct?
The resistance of the ls2...? I don't know what those words mean. The static compression ratio is 10.9:1 if that's what you mean. If you're asking about the structural integrity of the stock rotating assembly, then don't you worry... It's plenty strong, like can routinely handle 700rwhp, strong.
If you want a tuner cam, call one of the vendors on this site. Like if you want a Brian Tooley cam, call Brian Tooley, himself. Don't buy your cam off of eBay.
And, yes, I think your exhaust is too small of a diameter for a supercharged six liter. The true duals with an X-pipe is the correct layout or style, but I would want 3" pipes... 3.5" if it would fit. Positive displacement blowers love a free flowing exhaust.
A bone stock ls2 (with some valve springs) will gladly handle 10-12psi all day, every day, and twice on Sunday. With the proper head gaskets and some ARP hardware, you can push 15-17psi on a daily basis for the rest of your life with just the standard maintenance and upkeep. I don't know how durable the factory stuff is at 20psi on a regular basis, but everything short of 20psi is literally just a couple bolts and springs away.
Which maggy do you have MP112, 122 ? Intercooler or one of the older systems without ?
Either way I can't see your present exhaust being an issue. I know you didn't state it but 5 lbs boost was thrown out there .... You will be at 7 lbs at least with stock pulley on the smallest blower mentioned. Again your 2.5" is fine. ( what I'm saying is I wouldnt spend an extra nickel on upgrading the exhaust until you start pushing big numbers... You won't).
lThats not an insult. You will make respectable power & a perfect setup for drifting. Crazy TQ instantly will get you sideways quick. Duals with an xpipe is perfect for your power level.
Stock short block .. 600 hp is about it for safety. If your running one of the blowers above you won't exceed that rwhp either way.
Re: Cam. If you are not willing to to have a custom grind I might suggest the Brian Tooley stage 3 blower cam. He has developed some nice off the shelf cams for PD blowers by utilizing a higher LSA with + advance. It was developed for LS3 but will work well with the LS2. Specs are somewhere in the 230/242 range on a 120 +5. The lift isn't too big & the advance makes a big difference on the performance. Drives great, chops like a big boy & makes the most of your small blower with next to zero overlap.
I've been through the mill with my previous motor ( in sig). PM me for any advice that I may lend assistance with. It's a great power plant but it has it's challenges.
The smaller blowers really need a camshaft that does not go crazy with overlap, usually they like 0 or less on an engine this size. When you're using such a small blower already, the airflow available to fill the cylinder becomes much more scarce.
Maximizing cylinder filling and limiting charge loss becomes that much more important when it comes to power output with these smaller blowers. Such as the MP112, MP122.
The 2300 doesn't have as big of an issue as the smaller blowers, but still doesn't like a lot of overlap.
Are those pictures of it installed in your vehicle? Did you take it to a dyno after the installation... I'm guessing that's how you can say it's making 370ps now, and was making 400 before.
Has the car been tuned for the blower?
The dyno shop should have been able to tune it properly for you while you were there. I'm thinking it's your tune that is off.
Something straight up isn't right, sir. What injectors are you using? What is your timing and air fuel ratio look like during the dyno pull? What boost are you measuring at the manifold? Not the boost it's rated for, what are you measuring? Do you have a wideband O2 sensor plugged in?
I'm no expert on tuning, by any means, but it seems like your computer is actually keeping it from making power, probably in an effort to not explode. Check your boost readings, timing, and fuel ratios. Also see if it logged any knock/detonation during the dyno run. All this information should be available from your tuner.
Guy who was install this engine in my e46, has tuned this for the blower, but the power has decrease
Yes, these are the photos of my engine in my e46, do You know which model is this charger ?
I believe this is the original Magnusun 112. Non inter-cooler.
There is no reason why it should lose power after the addition of this blower.
Do you have the print out of the dyno run. It has to show significant gains in the lower RPM range both TQ & HP. TQ especially. What I'm interested to see is if the IATs are so horrible that its stripping your peak numbers at the high end of the run. The old maggies are known for their extreme Intake Air Temps.
It would surprise me that the blower couldn't muster up enough pressure to let itself be known. Look for the gains across the lower RPM range. If they are non existent ( then as DavidBoren suggested) the tune is far out of spec.
Maybe timing is stripped to the bone ?
We can mitigate the high IATs with Meth/Water injection if that is the cause of the deflated peak numbers. First look at the dyno sheet and make note of the level of Boost, IATs & timing. Compare it to the NA version dyno sheet as well. You should see a considerable gain in TQ at low RPM. A line that shoots straight up and levels off close to 400 ft lbs by 3K RPM. If HP never catches up & TQ decreases ... take a look at the IATs & timing of the drop off. I'm no tuning expert but its a start.
Don't forget, if the IATs are so high that they are pulling timing you may be eliminating the benefit of the blower & not even covering the HP needed to spin that blower. This would be the worse case I've ever heard of ... but not impossible.
Something straight up isn't right, sir. What injectors are you using? What is your timing and air fuel ratio look like during the dyno pull? What boost are you measuring at the manifold? Not the boost it's rated for, what are you measuring? Do you have a wideband O2 sensor plugged in?
I'm no expert on tuning, by any means, but it seems like your computer is actually keeping it from making power, probably in an effort to not explode. Check your boost readings, timing, and fuel ratios. Also see if it logged any knock/detonation during the dyno run. All this information should be available from your tuner.
I believe this is the original Magnusun 112. Non inter-cooler. (...)
But under it there is a radiator and it is liquid cooled... I have add the next radiator in the front of the car and electric water pump mixing the water in the cooling system...
The injectors are original from the Magnuson set. I don't really know which exactly they are...
The iat are maximum 45-50*C... and I have in the cabin water temperature gauge, and it never exceeds 40*C... thats why I'm not looking for the problem here. I thinking about to low boost pressure ( 0.3 bar ).
Here are my dyne tests, yellow, from last Year, and blue, two weeks ago, after charger installation. What You think?
Did you change your valve springs when the blower was installed? That yellow line is smooth and consistent, while the blue line is shaky and erratic. Usually when the dyno graph starts to get choppy like that, it's a sign of valve float. You could definitely be floating your valves if you have weak springs and boost.
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What camshaft for supercharged LS2 
