Husker98

iTrader: (11)

Currently running a wet plate with fuel off the rail and now I'm installing a D1sc and I'd like to keep the nitrous but unsure weather to keep it a wet plate or switch it to a dry shot and put a nozzle upstream. I'll be running 91 with no meth or timing retard module. Which is best for my setup?

20psiofevil

I've run it both ways. For my procharged build I injected dry into the procharger inlet. The maf seen the cooler intake temps and there was really no additional fuel tuning required with a 75hp shot. I now run a 50hp wet shot 6" from tb on my turbo setup to spool the turbo.

Husker98

iTrader: (11)

How much did you gain from the 75 shot?

JoeMama's GTO

iTrader: (3)

I gained 120 on a 70 shot with a P1 procharger for reference.

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

The inlet air temps get substantially cooler when a small shot of nitrous is added to a boosted engine. You will see a large hp increase with a small dry shot. Bob

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Sure the inlet temps drop, but the CC temps/pressures raise a ton with the added oxygen. The cc temps are what matters in the end, not IAT temps. Even a small shot raises cc temps, speeds up the burn, and lowers the knock threshold. This makes the eng. more likely to detonate.

You always need less timing and extra fuel when adding nitrous. If using a "dry" shot the ecu needs to add fuel. U want the n20 shot as close to the cc as possible for it to be most effective.

99.9percenter

iTrader: (2)

Run race fuel when spraying with boost.

Husker98

iTrader: (11)

Budget build. I was going to go with a stand alone fuel cell for my last setup and run race fuel since my fuel pump was maxed out but the procharger kit was bought and I would still like to utilize the nitrous if even just a 50 shot. My thoughts were doing a small dry shot upstream would help cool down charged air from being compressed therefore cooling cc but that doesn't sound to be the case. Best case scenario would be be to get stand alone with race fuel and if it's too risky I'll wait then. Would running 110 or Q16 with a 50-100 shot increase cc heat/pressure to much for same timing with boost?

Husker98

iTrader: (11)

And going from his example he benefited from the cooler air but didn't need extra fuel. I am curious if timing was pulled though ^

20psiofevil

With 75hp nos sniper kit I gained 75 rwhp spraying into the d1sc inlet on the dyno. Timing was reduced 2* global (pretty sure). The gains from cooling are not what you'd see with a turbo because the procharger coupled with their 3 core is very efficient already. Mid summer air the highest intake temps I recorded on that setup was 110 with throttle open. Wish I had saved the logs but I want to say the intake temps with the nitrous were near ambient around 80*.

I was very new to boosting at the time and looking back I would have used a wet kit and spray 8" before the tb. I was scared of hurting the motor back then and sparyed the d1sc inlet to some what weaken the hit lol. But at the same time spraying the inlet with 75hp jet was enough to get on the converter flash and making boost a lot quicker.

JoeMama's GTO

iTrader: (3)

You are right, it would have picked up more spraying post intercooler. You need to let the intercooler do its job and then cool down the air charge further with the N2O. Also, pulling 2* could easily of been 40HP which would explain 'only' picking up 75HP overall.

Husker98

iTrader: (11)

I've got everything you can throw into a 4l60e but only rocking a 4.2 trailblazer stall so a small shot would be beneficial to me to get that to flash higher

brandon6.0

iTrader: (32)

a good converter wouldn't be a bad idea. Ive heard stories of stock converters with big power taking out the cranks thrust bearings. it basicly pushes forward into the crank messing it up. Really worse on boost apps from my understanding.

circle d has these budget converters and they would be better than that stock one.

http://www.circledspecialties.com/p-...converter.aspx

Husker98

iTrader: (11)

I would have an aftermarket stall more suited to my application but the shop that did my tranny gave me a 3 year 100k mile warranty and told me to throw whatever I wanted at it. Same shop that built the tranny in the awd cutlass that's making 800+hp

Rise of the Phoenix

iTrader: (27)

What injectors are you planning on running?

Husker98

iTrader: (11)

80lb deka

Rise of the Phoenix

iTrader: (27)

You think those will be enough with a dry shot and the boost level you're looking to run?

Husker98

iTrader: (11)

I think I would seeing how far people have taken 60lb injectors.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Any amount of nitrous added requires more fuel and less timing. Doesn't matter what kind of fuel. You are adding oxygen to combustion.

If your tune is rich and your timing curve isn't on the ragged edge, a small shot might not cause problems. That doesn't make it "right". The proper way to do it is to add fuel and drop timing.

Nitrous will NEVER cool the combustion chamber. You are adding oxygen, which will make the cc much hotter.

Husker98

iTrader: (11)

Thanks for the input. Say if I went with a stand alone fuel system and ran race fuel I could get away with same timing over running 91?