Profec ? Customer Car
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,729
Likes: 814
From: Portland, OR
Profec ? Customer Car Hey guys,
Because I myself just recently graduated to a manual controller on my car, I'm not real familiar with these various electronic controllers.
Car is single Precision ball bearing turbo of unknown size, Tial 44mm WG.
Built by Stage 6 performance. Very nice setup.
I downloaded the Profec instructions and set to tuning it.
I'm having trouble getting a flat boost curve. I have it at 9psi currently.
So I looked at the plumbing of the control valve. 3 port, one is open.
There is nothing connected to the top of the gate. The controller is connected between the boost source and the bottom port.
This isn't what the directions show.
Obviously it "works" as I'm able to increase the set duty cycle and increase the boost. But is it correct? Is it possibly why I can't get the boost flat?
BTW, thus is a JGC 6.1 Hemi.
:-) Very cool car. I've tuned a few now. Don't worry, I won't convert.
Ha!
If you have ever been inside the hemi, it's very LS like. Except for the heads of course.
Thanks for any insight.
Ron
Because I myself just recently graduated to a manual controller on my car, I'm not real familiar with these various electronic controllers.
Car is single Precision ball bearing turbo of unknown size, Tial 44mm WG.
Built by Stage 6 performance. Very nice setup.
I downloaded the Profec instructions and set to tuning it.
I'm having trouble getting a flat boost curve. I have it at 9psi currently.
So I looked at the plumbing of the control valve. 3 port, one is open.
There is nothing connected to the top of the gate. The controller is connected between the boost source and the bottom port.
This isn't what the directions show.
Obviously it "works" as I'm able to increase the set duty cycle and increase the boost. But is it correct? Is it possibly why I can't get the boost flat?
BTW, thus is a JGC 6.1 Hemi.
:-) Very cool car. I've tuned a few now. Don't worry, I won't convert.
Ha!
If you have ever been inside the hemi, it's very LS like. Except for the heads of course.
Thanks for any insight.
Ron
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,729
Likes: 814
From: Portland, OR
Got ya.
Here is the routing.
Port 1 is the boost source. Comes from the intake manifold.
Port 2 to bottom of gate.
Port 3 open.
I don't find a description of the ports in the destructions.
At any rate, it does function. I'll keep playing with the gain.
It's not bad, boost is now flat within 1 psi
Here is the routing.
Port 1 is the boost source. Comes from the intake manifold.
Port 2 to bottom of gate.
Port 3 open.
I don't find a description of the ports in the destructions.
At any rate, it does function. I'll keep playing with the gain.
It's not bad, boost is now flat within 1 psi
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
Looks like it is plumbed in the most basic way, so no problems there.
0% duty all boost is fed to the w/g to blow it open
100% duty no boost will reach the gate, max boost is dictated by spring only and whatever exhaust pressure is acting on it.
Depending on EGBP this could be very high.
In the most basic way... Place ALL values in the unit for boost control to zero.
Use "Set" to adjust the valve duty to achieve roughly your desired boost pressure. Using this alone is little different to a mechanical bleed valve.
If boost starts to fall at the upper rpm's, you can start adding numbers to "Gain" to try and reduce this happening. Too much gain can cause boost to become erratic or spike.
Then in order to try and assist spool, You can adjust the "Start Boost" value. Keep this below your desired target boost. If it's too close or higher, again boost may spike or become erratic.
But regardless, always start with low numbers everywhere and work through them in the order above. Low number may be 1 as opposed to 0, as sometimes 0 can turn off functions altogether.
Although you may need to play with it a little after.
0% duty all boost is fed to the w/g to blow it open
100% duty no boost will reach the gate, max boost is dictated by spring only and whatever exhaust pressure is acting on it.
Depending on EGBP this could be very high.
In the most basic way... Place ALL values in the unit for boost control to zero.
Use "Set" to adjust the valve duty to achieve roughly your desired boost pressure. Using this alone is little different to a mechanical bleed valve.
If boost starts to fall at the upper rpm's, you can start adding numbers to "Gain" to try and reduce this happening. Too much gain can cause boost to become erratic or spike.
Then in order to try and assist spool, You can adjust the "Start Boost" value. Keep this below your desired target boost. If it's too close or higher, again boost may spike or become erratic.
But regardless, always start with low numbers everywhere and work through them in the order above. Low number may be 1 as opposed to 0, as sometimes 0 can turn off functions altogether.
Although you may need to play with it a little after.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,729
Likes: 814
From: Portland, OR
I ended up at 45% duty cycle.
Gain at -7
Start at 7.3 psi.
Perfectly flat boost line at 10psi.
I figured out the gain would go negative by accident....
Setting it up was like playing whack-a-mole.
You will love this:
That fine air filter limited boost to 5 psi no matter what I set the controller to.
Thanks for the help!
Gain at -7
Start at 7.3 psi.
Perfectly flat boost line at 10psi.
I figured out the gain would go negative by accident....
Setting it up was like playing whack-a-mole.
You will love this:
That fine air filter limited boost to 5 psi no matter what I set the controller to.
Thanks for the help!
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Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,729
Likes: 814
From: Portland, OR
A meth kit would be nice as well.
And a forged short block.....
And, and. :-)
Our customer bought it like this, we get to make it better.
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
But interesting all the same at how restrictive it was !!
Seen one a few years ago, Subaru that wouldnt run right boost right, was dead as **** everywhere. Car seemed mostly standard too...so strange.
Turned out to be some shitty blue egay replacement panel filter was the problem ! It was strangling the **** out of it. Had never seen anything like it before, or since.
Seen one a few years ago, Subaru that wouldnt run right boost right, was dead as **** everywhere. Car seemed mostly standard too...so strange.
Turned out to be some shitty blue egay replacement panel filter was the problem ! It was strangling the **** out of it. Had never seen anything like it before, or since.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,729
Likes: 814
From: Portland, OR
But interesting all the same at how restrictive it was !!
Seen one a few years ago, Subaru that wouldnt run right boost right, was dead as **** everywhere. Car seemed mostly standard too...so strange.
Turned out to be some shitty blue egay replacement panel filter was the problem ! It was strangling the **** out of it. Had never seen anything like it before, or since.
Seen one a few years ago, Subaru that wouldnt run right boost right, was dead as **** everywhere. Car seemed mostly standard too...so strange.
Turned out to be some shitty blue egay replacement panel filter was the problem ! It was strangling the **** out of it. Had never seen anything like it before, or since.
When I took it off, boost shot up to 20psi......good thing I have a fast foot!
