93project53

I have a 93 mustang wit a 2002 5.3 in it, car runs extremely well my problem is I cant keep the car cool. the setup is comp 224/228 cam ls9 headgaskets lifters springs pushrods ls1 waterpump truck manifolds flipped to a 74mm precision turbo. I have tried everything I can think of, it has a 31inch speedway dual pass radiator 3000cfm fan 180 thermostat with two 1/8th inch holes drilled into thermo the steamport is plumed into the radiator right under cap all hotside piping is heat wrapped and also have a turbo blanket. the car wants to run about 215 crusing and after a pull it climbs to about 220 230 and will not recover unless I coast in neutral for a good ways. I am ready to pull my hair out I don't know what else to do any advice is appreciated

Busted67

iTrader: (1)

I would try a quality fan first. Maybe taraus fan with shroud. If u can't keep it cool ditch that speedway radiator.

93project53

Think I should try a stock f body radiator

dburt86

iTrader: (2)

is your steam line going into the port that the a overflow tank would usually run to? i dont think you would want that.

Busted67

iTrader: (1)

Yea that may work just make sure u get the fans with it.

turbo69

Make sure the heater output lines are not capped off they need to be looped together so coolant can flow

FrossB

iTrader: (1)

Did you make sure you thoroughly burped the system and got all the air out? Ask me how I know that can cause overheating -____-

Beanslsxnova

iTrader: (1)

I had a cheap griffin ls swap radiator in my nova which I believe is about the same radiator as the speedway radiator. No matter what I did my car would not run any cooler than 210-220 and would creep up into the 230-240 range in traffic. For along time I put it off as the intercooler restricting airflow. One day the radiator sprung a leak and I said to hell with it and bought a $610 Dewitt's radiator. now my car runs 190-195. Doesn't seem to matter what kind of driving I do.

93project53

no I drilled hole in rad and welded a fitting in

93project53

im pretty sure I got all the air out all I know to do is just try it again.

that is very interesting about the difference in temp on those radiators I have a fox rad laying around I may just try for ***** and giggles to see what happens

crowstyle

what about a 170 degree thermostat instead of the 180?

stackz

wtf. thats just stupid. just change out the shitty radiator.

he even has a stock fox rad to try out for free, engine will probably love him for it.

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

What does it get up to if you just let it idle?

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Couldn't be farther from the truth. Looping the lines is 100% incorrect. That connects the high and low side of the system and hampers flow. You don't want a "loop" between the two. If you aren't running a heater core, you want each plugged. Because you see alot of people loop the lines, that doesn't make it right.

You want to make sure you jack the nose of the car up a bit, and use a large funnel to burp the system. like so...


As mentioned most likely your radiator is crap. I'd call up howards and have one made to whatever dimensions you need. Also as mentioned the Taurus fan flows about twice the CFM on high (around 6000cfm). I run a good 14x14 radiator and am able to keep the car plenty cool with a taurus fan. My 4.5" thick IC is also blocking it 100%

dburt86

iTrader: (2)

taurus fan is the *****. Dont hesitate to buy one. I have a baby dick radaitor and an absolutely packed engine bay and that fan keeps everything cool.

JoeNova

I agree on blocking off the lines. Looping them is just the easy way. You can buy the hose to loop it for less than $10 at any parts store.

69-chvl

iTrader: (11)

Let's see a pic of the fan. I can predict that's the problem already. Factory fans pull a true 4000+ cfm unlike the cheap after market units that have inflated ratings.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Slip something in the hose to block fluid flow and clamp it on...

kingtal0n

iTrader: (1)

Somebody asked what it reaches while at idle. This is a significant question because ignition timing can cause "overheating" (the egt will climb to 1500*F+) while cruising if there is not enough advance. You should be cruising at 36-39* btdc timing, with an 14.8-15.0 air fuel ratio. If the engine does not hit 200*F+ at idle, but does while cruising, this is where I would look next (timing).

On the other hand, if you are hitting 200*F+ with fans on, while at idle, you have a cooling problem related to water/fans. mostly fan I would guess. Ducting, a good fan, and a good radiator is next.

93project53

Fan was ordered from summit was 300 dollars cant remember name brand tho