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Huron v1 ac kit install, few issues and need ideas

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Old Sep 30, 2016 | 03:46 PM
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Default Huron v1 ac kit install, few issues and need ideas

Almost got the single turbo kit all in but ran into a few problems. This has posed a problem as I can't seem to find an install guide for this particular kit anywhere. A- what do I do for the exhaust? My catback is on the passenger side of the car yet the downpipe comes out by the oil filter, on the drivers side. I'll attach pics after the post, and also where does the alternator mount with the new bracket? I'm so close to finishing this up and winter is showings it's ugly face with 30* nights . Any help is greatly appreciated , I'm gonna run a pipe with a cutout after the down pipe if I cant figure a way to get the exhaust back too the other side of the car .
Attached Thumbnails Huron v1 ac kit install, few issues and need ideas-photo417.jpg   Huron v1 ac kit install, few issues and need ideas-photo802.jpg   Huron v1 ac kit install, few issues and need ideas-photo479.jpg   Huron v1 ac kit install, few issues and need ideas-photo471.jpg   Huron v1 ac kit install, few issues and need ideas-photo0.jpg  

Huron v1 ac kit install, few issues and need ideas-photo61.jpg  
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Old Sep 30, 2016 | 03:49 PM
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Ask Huron speed for the instructions?
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Old Sep 30, 2016 | 03:51 PM
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I've scoured their website meticulously but since this kit is pretty out dated I don't imagine they run into too many installs of these nowadays . It's obvious the mid pipe is gonna be a nightmare , and I'm so close to being done . Waiting on my Holley hp , water/meth kit and gauges to get here , then j can fire this up and watch it work its magic
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Old Sep 30, 2016 | 03:57 PM
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E mail them and ask if they still have them around.
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Old Sep 30, 2016 | 06:46 PM
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What it looks like you would do for exhaust, from looking at your photos would be to run from that pipe by the oil filter down through the same channel the factory Y pipe would run through , then connect it to your mid pipe behind the trans where the Y pipe would normally connect. Think of it as a standard Fbody exhaust minus the passenger side header/manifold, and that side of the Y-pipe. I expect you will need to weld up a pipe cut from some bends, and a couple V-band clamps to get from where you are at to the mid pipe. If your not into that type of fab work, I'm sure you could take it to a muffler shop and they could do it quite inexpensively. It doesn't look like a complex piece to make.

PS, ditch that flimsy factory torque arm, your gonna have a turbo car! You sure did ditch the N2O idea in a hurry.
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Old Sep 30, 2016 | 07:06 PM
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Torque arm is already en route Lower control arms front and rear sway bars , subframe connectors , panhard bar . all suspension parts . Just the transmission and rear are my final pieces , so far this is where the car stands
Ls1
Prc . Valve spring
Hardened pushrods
Ls7 lifters
Tsp camshAft
New timing set
Ls6 intake
60lb injectors
New oil pump
New timing set
Holley hp efi with digital screen and Holley meth injection.
Huron v1 turbo kit with 7868 turbo, cx racing intercooler, eboost street boost controller .
Ls7 clutch and flywheel
Bmr adjustable dom torque arm
Adjustable lower control arms
Adjustable pan hard bar
Front and rear sway bars
Subframe connectors
Toyo proxes tq drag radials
And a racetronic Hotwire kit 255lph with kenne bell boost a pump .
It's a solid start , and should be able to run a big t4 or ditch the kit "which is what I want to do" and go twins with a built tsp 408.
This winter it's getting a crp fab 9, tick performance level 5 tr6060, nasty n8 fuel system, and a mwc cage . I've got a good start , and plan to enjoy the car for a few months before winter comes if possible .. then turn it into a 1000 hp street beast over the winter months
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Old Sep 30, 2016 | 07:45 PM
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You win a lottery? I'm envious. I have to do my mods at a little slower pace.

The reason I mentioned the TA is because I ran my stock one for a long time after I did my heads/cam/intake mod. Occasionally there was a strange, but subtle vibration in the car on hard acceleration, I was thinking it was a bent axle or wheel, something like that. But hat didn't really make sense or it would be there all the time at speed right? I went to a weld in after market torque arm setup and the vibration went away. I believe it was the stock TA vibrating under load.
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Old Sep 30, 2016 | 08:17 PM
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Could be , the torque arm is like sheet metal, and the stock mounts are horrible . I had a 93 z28 before my 98 and after putting strange da shocks out back and strange up front, with Lca's , and a torque arm, and dialed in my pinion angle , I was running 10.89 @ 127-129. The car made 390rwhp on a mustang dyno yet annihilated numerous 500-700 hp cars in the street because it dead hooked !! Unbelievable that a stock 10 bolt with 4:10 gears lived behind a 4l60 with a 3400 stall converter and refused to break after hundreds of low 11 to high 10 second passes .I pulled a tire numerous times on spray and a hard launch ! I ended up blowing the stock transmission , and the rear end never let go haha. I own my own business and make 1800 a week. After taxes and bills and saving for quite some time, I can build whatever I want 😎 I've got about 6 weeks before I make another 20-30k " gotta love county tax auctions and cheap properties !!"
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Old Sep 30, 2016 | 08:28 PM
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Dennis,

I suggest You call or email Jon at Huron Speed, He is a great Guy to work with, loves cars and is very knowledgeable. I bet He can help solve Your issue quickly.

Carl
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Old Sep 30, 2016 | 10:16 PM
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Yeah John took care of it and pointed me in the right direction . The car is coming along great ! I'll be getting ahold of you soon Carl , as a new rear will be top priority when snow hits. I'm really about 65-70% of the way there. I still need the rear end, cage, nasty n8 fuel system, and transmission. I have both turbos I just need to fab the hot side up , which is gonna take some serious thought and time to keep the ac. A bad a$$ a2w cooler, and a few other little things that tend to add up quickly . I'm gonna be gunning for 9 flat with a m6 but I'll be trying like hell to break 8s with a street car😈 don't know if it'll happen but it's worth a shot !
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Old Oct 1, 2016 | 11:47 AM
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Hey can anyone recommend a bigger fuel pump that will fit as a direct replacement too my 255 and Hotwire kit ? I just wanna push the edge with my ls1 and I'm thinking the 255 and bap will run out of steam
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Old Oct 2, 2016 | 07:55 AM
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Dennis,
Contacting me direct for any questions I will always answer right away, opposed to having to run across a thread on here to help you.

For your fuel pump question with this kit, I would go with double pumper kit from Squash or Lonnies, however this does not match up with the set-up or goals you were discussing with me in email at all, so I am unsure which route you are taking here or set-up you are building to be able to best help you.

I see 2 builds here. One being the stock engine, V1 kit, 255 fuel pump and the other being a 408 with a custom twin kit, cage, fuel system, etc.
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Old Oct 2, 2016 | 08:40 AM
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There are two builds , one till the end of winter, the other for the beginnning of spring. Some of the parts will stay the same, I just was unsure if there was a cheap solution for a fuel pump for the next two months, to get more power out of the current combo .
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Old Oct 2, 2016 | 08:46 AM
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Beginning of winter*, and beginning of spring . I don't have time to finish the entire build before snow hits, I got such a great deal on the v1 single kit and turbo, that it is worth it too me to put this car together now, and enjoy it for a little bit is all. A lot of the parts will still be useable for both builds such as: all suspension parts , Holley hp efi, turbo, boost controller, all chassis parts, transmission etc . Everything I've done for the motor/ t56/ single kit right now is going into a 3rd gen z28 over the winter as well. So yes you are correct that you are seeing twin builds, and I just didn't want the limiting factor too be the 255 Hotwire kit , bap and 60 lb sd injectors I currently have.
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Old Oct 2, 2016 | 09:40 AM
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Why don't we put it together now then with the v1 ac kit and when it isn't enough for you down the road and you want to switch, we re-discuss a new build? Rather than discuss a future build while the current build is only being installed and never used yet. You need to match the turbo and engine together to work efficiently. If you try to do one or the other to plan for a drastic change down the road you are going to be leaving something on the table one way or another for the current or future build as each one needs to be specd to work together, not with multiple combinations
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Old Oct 2, 2016 | 10:50 AM
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^ that advice is worth thousands of dollars

the unfinished project part-outs in the classifieds all have one thing in common, trying to build this year's car around next years parts.
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