Henri

Hi guys,

I have a forged 383 LM7 with 2002 Firebird LS1 heads and F-body accessories. It is used on a race car, so I'm quite free to do whatever needed.

Now I've come across a Roush TVS1900 kit for trucks which is described mostly like this:

Roush TVS 1900 Supercharger Kit

4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0L, Silverado, Sierra, Tahoe, Yukon, Suburban, Avalanche, SSR, and Trailblazer SS
SUPERCHARGER KIT 450HP/450ft–Lbs (5.3L), 500HP/540ft-Lbs (6.0L)

I am completly new to supercharging, most of the guys in my area are using turbos. So, I am now trying to figure out, how to make this kit work with my LS1 F-body accessories and harmonic balancer (ATI Super damper, 10% underdrive). I understand that the pulleys are further away from the block on trucks.

Would it be usually possible to change the pulley drive to something which should be closer and usable? Of course I could switch all the accessories, but would not prefer to buy a new damper while doing so. I can easily move the alternator bracket, use some other (electrical) water pump and move the power steering - these are not an issue.

Or is it usually ok to machine a new pulley to suit my needs? Does these kind of superchargers have any space to take the pulley closer?

I would need to change the pulley anyway to increase the boost. Stock 6psi is definately not enough since I already have around 500+hp and would like to increase to around 700whp.

And yes, I know that it would be easier to buy a kit suitable just for my application, but it would cost me around 3 times more and then I would rather go the turbo route.

customblackbird

iTrader: (2)

Truck accessories run off the truck balancer. It's 3/4" further out from the block than the fbody balancer. The fbody balancer is also 3/4" further out than the corvette. So the truck is 1.5" further out when compared to the corvette. Nothing u can do without changing the balancer bud. They are cheap at less than $100 on eBay. Usually people are more worried about changing everything else as nothing interchanges.

Check out torqstorm. 3k for my bolt on supercharger and good to about 750hp. Can get it for truck accessories and that's what I run on my 5.3. Up to 12psi and about 550hp on a stock 5.3.

Judging by the stroked 5.3 your prob going to need a larger supercharger as your putting out decent power already. Cam needs to be supercharger friendly and get ready for large injectors, boost referenced regulator and a fuel system to support it.

Henri

Thanks for the reply.

The thing is that I'm not in the states. Shipping and paying taxes to EU on anything is well...quite an expense.

And this Roush kit is here, ready to be inspected and put on, around $2800. Buying a $3000 kit from the states, with taxes and shipping, will be more like $4000 in the end. Which is already turbo territory.

I will definately not use a cheap/used&unknown harmonic balancer, so I should fork out the extra for a truck offset version. The rest of the pulleys like alternator are not a problem. We can fabricate most of the things and use electrical/electrohydraulical accessories for steering and water.

Actually I used a 5.3 block, bored to 5.7 (3.905) and then stroked to 383 (all forged internals).

For the fuel system I already have 70lb Bosch injectors (but for FI exchange these for even bigger ones), 2x Bosch 044 fuel pumps and 2x Facet redtop feeders.

The cam is 228/230 @0.050" 110lsa +2
intake: 0.57 exhaust: 0.571"

customblackbird

iTrader: (2)

didnt realize you were outside the states.

700whp is about the max of 72lb at 58psi. Your going to want 80lb or higher. FIC said my 72lb are good to about 800hp crank.

Think you misunderstood me. New GM balancers are $100 or less on eBay... Not a Dorman replacement or cheap Chinese crap.

Your ur cam is not a good match for a positive displacement supercharger. Duration is all wrong and your lobe separation is too low. Your going to be looking for 10+* duration on the exhaust over intake and lobe in the 119-120 range.

Factor or all this into the cost. Taxes... This is why j love
merica!

Henri

What about underdrived balancer, makes the s/c spin too slow? I'll definately look into the stock balancer, AFAIK they should be equally good to ATI dampers.

Would the stock 2000 LS1 f-body cam be better or quite useless? I guess that with every F/I implication I have to change out the cam for something more suitable. So all-in-all in the end it's going to be around the same amount.

I actually have no definite goal in mind, the added extra 50hp does not make me a better driver. So if the cam is still good for around 650whp, I'll take it. This is a drift car, so 1/4 mile times are not important at all, only driveability and powerband. If you (or anybody else who has experience with different setups) tell me that I definately need to switch out the cam, I'll do it. It is possible for me to sell my current cam, as well as the injectors, intake and all the other things like that.

N20zuki

You don't want an under drive pulley

customblackbird

iTrader: (2)

Under drive pullies are for Dyno mags looking for every bit of hp to get the magical number. I don't run them on anything of mine. They slow everything down and cause more harm than good. 10hp is nothing when your charging sucks, engine runs warmer bc your pump isn't spinning as fast etc. get that junk off and run a stocker and stop worrying about it.

Any cam will "run" but your leaving a lot of power and drive ability on the table. Shoot cam motion a call or Pm and see what they recommend. They will give your more insite on how your current cam will stack up. Blowers don't need a lot of intake duration due to the multiple atmospheres waiting behind the valve to rush into the cylinder head. Air is literally pushed and forced in compared to a NA motor that has to suck the air into it. Longer duration exhaust allows all that burned extra compressed gas and fuel to escape... So superchargers need more exhaust duration to evacuate all the exhaust. Turbos don't want a lot of exhaust as your exhaust is under pressure in a turbo application and you don't want the exhaust being pushed back into the intake when the valve hangs open too long. The exhaust/burnt 02 then replaces the fresh 02 for a complete burn and your down on power big time. Again call and I'm sure they are going to spec you a cam that will work and tell you why yours won't.

just looked at the cam again. If your engine block is a newer block you can run the LS9 cam. Factory supercharged and it's like 211/230 which is what I'm trying to tell you. If you have a gen III you can get a conversion kit (front timing cover with sensor, cam, harness extension, cam gear and hardware to convert the motor over. If you already have the cam sensor in the front timing cover you should be good. The Ls9 cam brand new from GM is like $100 lol but it's the other **** that adds up.

gpr

iTrader: (6)

This might be a dumb question, but with a truck supercharger even fit on an F-body? i would think it would be too tall to fit under the cowl...

jimmyg

Just put a pro charger on it

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

Not a dumb question. Normally the cowl has to be cut back and the front K member spaced down to get an intake mounted blower to fit on a 4th gen. Bob

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

I agree!!! Bob

91FormulaKiller

iTrader: (28)

answered my own question.