gmoney416

Ati dampner hub spun on the crank at some point now has been wobbling causing blower belt wear. If there is too much play how can i be certain pinning the crank will be perfectly centered? Thanks also im new to the forum as of 6 mins ago so hello all.

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

It shouldn't wobble if the bolt is tight. If the bolt is tight and you have a wobble pinning is not going to fix it, Either the balancer or crank snout or both would have to be ruined.
If the bolt is loose you could get a new bolt ( don't reuse the old one) and pin it.

gmoney416

Kilpatrick racing installed a pin in the crank but when i removed the pin the crank wobbled much less, its arp 12 point btw.
I think im going to machine a tool tomorrow and bore 4 holes in it. Then install 4 dowels and or pins. But trying to find out optimal way to make sure ati hub is 100% tru and straight before i bore.

stevieturbo

That makes no sense.

When you removed the pin...it wobbled less ?

The pulleys on these are an interference fit. They are very tight and need tools to remove and install.
Nothing should wobble...ever

And if it is pinned correctly, then it should never be able to spin. If it has broken a pin and spun, good chance your crank is fucked too.

gmoney416

It wasnt pinned or keyed originally. Installer failed to do so. This spun the balancer. They then pinned and keyed it. But the oil pump drive on the front of the crankshaft has now worn on an angle. So im removing the oil pump and pulling it off to install new. Also i have welded the hub indicated it and remachined the center for a factory .002 press fit. Also the pin that i will be installing will be solid and will be 180 out from keyway. So i think i have it solved. If i tighten bal just before it stops about .0020 i have 0 wobble. Final torqued =wobble.

stevieturbo

An F1 and they didnt pin or key the crank ?

Beat them about the head with the pulley and get the car far far away from them.

Double pin it axially and hope you dont need a new crank as well as a pulley.

DavidBoren

Welcome to the forums.

Can you put in a stainless ~0.0020" shim and torque to spec? Seems the use of a shim would be fine since you will be pinning everything anyways.

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

http://shop.brutespeed.com/ATI-Perfo...ts-916031S.htm

I sell new ATI hubs for these balancers, if you should need one. Bob

gametech

iTrader: (1)

I would prefer if he beat them about the head and neck with a shrubbery. All the while we hope the pre-existing damage tis but a flesh wound.

gmoney416

I double pinned it and keyed it 120degrees apart. The oil pump drive was wore from balancer spinning with tremendous force on it. It wore the blancer hub stop on an angle. And when you bring it to the stop its square. Until you torque it. Then out at the end of the blower drive pulley it wobbled like crazy. But it was only .020 out of square. New oil pump drive installed put it all back together today straight as a grizzlys dick!!

Game ova

Something tells me that there will be a continuation to this issue.

gmoney416

Thanks for the input. Ill write that down for reference.

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

So how did you fix the part you mention here? If you weren't able to square it back up then it will continue to cause problems.

gmoney416

Replaced the oil pump drive cog thats pressed on. Weld and remachine the hub for balancer. And properly pin it. Straight as could be .002 press fit works like a charm.

gmoney416

gmoney416

No recessed wear on one side and .019 on the other. The that equates to roughly .280 deflection at the end of the blower drive pulley. =too much wobble ruining my damn belts