Maybe FiTech learned LS engines matter? :)
#101
Agreed, You would need a standalone tranny controller like the FAST, MSD or GM version. However... how do the standalone tranny controllers work? You could run a 4l80e with a controller behind a carbed 5.3 or BBC etc. It would essentially be the same thing either way so maybe it is possible.
#103
Maybe thats how the tranny section is configured in the FItech system. Seems like its could be a possibility. But You would know better as you have the tranny controlled PCM.
I would also think that engine temp is not really needed for tranny operation. Tranny temp matters to the tranny, engine not so much.
I would also think that engine temp is not really needed for tranny operation. Tranny temp matters to the tranny, engine not so much.
#104
TPS and trans output speed sensor for the most part, you do need RPM's for some of the controls
I have used the Compushift trans Controllers on non LS engines, but they cost as much as the 70051, lol
I have used the Compushift trans Controllers on non LS engines, but they cost as much as the 70051, lol
#105
Pretty sure some of the better controllers out there will prefer to have various engine information provided to it.
#106
I was actually linked to this thread from a post in a thread I started over at Chevelles.
I received the 70051 stand alone system yesterday. It's very nice, complete and nothing damaged. It was in stock at Summit.
I don't think anybody in this thread mentioned it, this is a speed density system, no MAF.
The injector harnesses are for LS1 injectors. If you're using EV6 injectors, you'll need adapters or need to change the plugs.
The harness sections are too long, I'm sure most users will shorten everything up.
My twist is I'm installing this on my 496 big block, which has been outfitted with LS1 sensors.
I have a bunch of other things to do so it'll be a while before I actually fire this system up.
I received the 70051 stand alone system yesterday. It's very nice, complete and nothing damaged. It was in stock at Summit.
I don't think anybody in this thread mentioned it, this is a speed density system, no MAF.
The injector harnesses are for LS1 injectors. If you're using EV6 injectors, you'll need adapters or need to change the plugs.
The harness sections are too long, I'm sure most users will shorten everything up.
My twist is I'm installing this on my 496 big block, which has been outfitted with LS1 sensors.
I have a bunch of other things to do so it'll be a while before I actually fire this system up.
#108
No. The main power for the Fitech system is a wire they recommend (actually almost insist) you run to the battery.
You COULD run it to the main battery lug at the starter.
As far as starting duties, your vehicle's starter circuit handles that. The Fitech system knows when you're trying to run it from the IGN wire (powered when the key is in the "on" and "start" positions) and when it sees signal from the cam & crank sensors. Just like the GM PCM, low RPM means you're starting the engine and the ECM does the needed start spark and fuel adjustments.
You COULD run it to the main battery lug at the starter.
As far as starting duties, your vehicle's starter circuit handles that. The Fitech system knows when you're trying to run it from the IGN wire (powered when the key is in the "on" and "start" positions) and when it sees signal from the cam & crank sensors. Just like the GM PCM, low RPM means you're starting the engine and the ECM does the needed start spark and fuel adjustments.
#109
No. The main power for the Fitech system is a wire they recommend (actually almost insist) you run to the battery.
You COULD run it to the main battery lug at the starter.
As far as starting duties, your vehicle's starter circuit handles that. The Fitech system knows when you're trying to run it from the IGN wire (powered when the key is in the "on" and "start" positions) and when it sees signal from the cam & crank sensors. Just like the GM PCM, low RPM means you're starting the engine and the ECM does the needed start spark and fuel adjustments.
You COULD run it to the main battery lug at the starter.
As far as starting duties, your vehicle's starter circuit handles that. The Fitech system knows when you're trying to run it from the IGN wire (powered when the key is in the "on" and "start" positions) and when it sees signal from the cam & crank sensors. Just like the GM PCM, low RPM means you're starting the engine and the ECM does the needed start spark and fuel adjustments.
#110
have my 70050 installed on my 5.3....it will start for a second then just die......it's getting fuel and spark... is there a preset tune I can run for 5.3 24x trans off.....I'm so close I can feel it ....I know it's sumthin stupid anybody got any clues?
#112
Yea mine is running great.....to the point where I built another 5.3 and put it in a '68 c10 in under a month with just my two hand.....(people tend to just get in my way), in the nova it took about 6 months, I guess it's the learning curve. .lol....anyhow I like the fact that since both my builds were n/a the system is user friendly and I don't need a laptop to get it running, if your just doing a simple cammed lsx then I'd say it's a great buy!!! I'd post a video but it says cannot post mp3pics nonsense
#114
I always find it easier to just upload them to YouTube and then post the link to the video
I will be NA for a while but might boost it later.
just looking for the cheapest option to get it running right now.
I will be NA for a while but might boost it later.
just looking for the cheapest option to get it running right now.
#117
I am putting the 500 hp kit on my 5.3l and am confused as to what the 2 red wires with the post connectors are for next to the crank sensor. They say starter but where do they go? Also any pictures or insight as to the best way to route this wiring harness?
#118
Jack, on page 8 in the installation manual, the red wires (#2) go to the battery terminal on the starter. OR you can connect it directly to the positive lug on the battery.
Also on page 8, the red wire (#4) goes to any wire in your car that becomes live when the ignition key is on or when cranking the engine. When the ignition key is off, this wire should be dead.
What vehicle are you installing this in to?
Also on page 8, the red wire (#4) goes to any wire in your car that becomes live when the ignition key is on or when cranking the engine. When the ignition key is off, this wire should be dead.
What vehicle are you installing this in to?