Forced Induction Superchargers | Turbochargers | Intercoolers

Turbo ls1 tailpipe smoke between shifts.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-01-2016, 10:58 AM
  #1  
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
 
Dennis5374's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 397
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Turbo ls1 tailpipe smoke between shifts.

so I finally got the car rocking with the new Holley hp efi. Initially I had to install a scavenge pump as I was not getting the oil out of the turbo. After the scavenge pump I eliminated 95% of the oil consumption. Now the only time I see any smoke is between shifts and it comes from the tail pipes . Im prettty sure my stock pcv system is the culprit here. Can anyone recommend a cheap solution for my issues? I've already broke the bank on this build , and my funds for this project are becoming very slim at best . Any help would greatly be appreciated . I'm running a stock shortblock, with 228r cam, .650 springs, trunion upgrade, hardened pushrods, ls9 gaskets, arp head studs, new gm oil pump, new gm timing set . Huron v1 ac kit with a turbonetics 7868 bbb turbo, cxracing intercooler with a 44mm xspower gate, and a 50mm xspower bov. Boost is controlled by a eboost street, and is set too 6 psi . On a side note, I'm absolutely in love with the processing speed, of the Holley ecu and how fast it adjusts base fuel when in closed loop. In 2 days I went from barely running , to amazing drivability in and out of boost, now I solely have to work on the idle tuning. First things first though and I'd like to get this bad boy to stop blowing smoke !
Old 11-01-2016, 05:31 PM
  #2  
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
 
Dennis5374's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 397
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Bump.. anybody?
Old 11-01-2016, 05:53 PM
  #3  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (9)
 
The BallSS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Washington
Posts: 2,681
Received 498 Likes on 385 Posts

Default

Your setup is almost identical to mine before I switched to a T7875.
If your running a stock PCV system without a catch can that's your problem.
Pony up and buy a Mighty Mouse PCV Catch can.
Take your vacuum from behind the throttle body and then run the other side of the can to the factory plastic line that goes to both driver and passenger valve covers.
Then the last open barb on the passenger valve cover can either be capped off with a little Spectre air filter you find at Autozone or go to the turbo inlet.
I've run it both ways and never had an issue with crank case pressure or smoking under throttle, only under REALLY hard braking lol.
Old 11-01-2016, 06:49 PM
  #4  
TECH Junkie
 
Game ova's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 3,013
Received 46 Likes on 42 Posts
Default

Open air pcv is what I run, no issues at all.
Old 11-01-2016, 10:26 PM
  #5  
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
 
Dennis5374's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 397
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Ponying up is hard at the moment . I poured a massive amount of cash into this car, and now I'm stuck trying to straighten this out on the cheap side, temporarily. Winter is right around the corner and I'll have too put the car up for the winter, and then I'm sure at some point I can afford a nice pcv setup, but for now I honestly can't afford a 250.00 setup. What about this ?
Old 11-02-2016, 09:27 AM
  #6  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (9)
 
The BallSS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Washington
Posts: 2,681
Received 498 Likes on 385 Posts

Default

Then remove the PCV system and just run a filter on each valve cover.
The problem with the factory PCV is it will pump boost right into the crank case which is bad mmkay.
Cap the vacuum sources on the the throttle body and manifold, put a filter in the rear driver side valve cover hole and a filter on the passenger side like you've got and you'll be fine.
I know plenty of guys who just run breathers and have no problems.
I just went the PCV route because I didn't want to smell oil on long road trips lol.
Old 11-02-2016, 10:55 AM
  #7  
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
 
Dennis5374's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 397
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I installed a filter on the oil cap, and blocked the line too the throttle body , now your saying remove the line to the intake manifold, install a breather where the pcv valve is on the drivers side, and cap/ plug the rest ?
Old 11-02-2016, 11:01 AM
  #8  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (59)
 
MIGHTYMOUSE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Virginia
Posts: 10,010
Received 45 Likes on 31 Posts

Default

the nice thing about doing it right the first time is you don't have to buy a second time.

the second nice thing is that you don't accidentally blow out a rear main seal.

its a bummer when the crankcase ventilation system at only a couple hundred bux to do properly is skimped on after liberally spending thousands in other areas.. i'm in the wrong nitch haha!
Old 11-02-2016, 11:04 AM
  #9  
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
 
Dennis5374's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 397
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Also could I unhook from the manifold , and run a filter off the hose ? Idk if this would work or nit but it seems easier then reaching into the firewall , to try and unplug on the drivers side.
Old 11-02-2016, 11:07 AM
  #10  
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
 
Dennis5374's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 397
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by MIGHTYMOUSE
the nice thing about doing it right the first time is you don't have to buy a second time.

the second nice thing is that you don't accidentally blow out a rear main seal.

its a bummer when the crankcase ventilation system at only a couple hundred bux to do properly is skimped on after liberally spending thousands in other areas.. i'm in the wrong nitch haha!
Trust me I have full intentions on doing it right , but after the acquisition of a house "thanks to the wife " I'm really strapped for cash and just want to enjoy my car before the white stuff starts sticking to the ground !
Old 11-02-2016, 01:26 PM
  #11  
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
 
Dennis5374's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 397
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

What about using an air oil seperator? I'm talking one meant for an air compressor . Wouldn't that work ? I have a few different ones laying around at my body shop . Essentially it's doing the same exact thing right ? I'm getting smoke on downshifts and decel after boost, which points to valve stem seals but they are all new! What If I just block off the intake tube , and block the other end of the line, as well as the drivers side inlet ? Would this let the crankcase vent through the oil cap breather I installed today? I've heard or people disconnecting the intake tube, and running it straight to the ground
Old 11-02-2016, 01:49 PM
  #12  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (59)
 
MIGHTYMOUSE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Virginia
Posts: 10,010
Received 45 Likes on 31 Posts

Default

oil consumption can come from

-pcv system
-valvetrain (down the valves)
-pistons (up from the rings)

so a catch can could only help the first one

pretty much anything can catch 'some' oil, compressor filters are in that category. BUT compressor filters are designed for very high pressure and very low flow, which is nearly the exact opposite of the pcv system.. they also happen to have very little reservoir capacity, saturating very quickly and going back to doing nothing at all in a very short amount of time.

like i mentioned before once you do it wrong a few different ways you could have afforded a really nice setup, not to mention skip the risks and save the time.
Old 11-02-2016, 02:31 PM
  #13  
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
 
Dennis5374's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 397
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I have 10 dollars invested total . I've got the smoke too hardly anything at all. I pulled the pcv line from the intake , put a filter in the end of it , and it improved throttle response as well as decel drivability . I think I'm getting blow by with the royal purple 5w30, as my car has 100k miles on it and the oil is basicallly as thing as water
Old 11-02-2016, 11:51 PM
  #14  
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
 
Dennis5374's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 397
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I'm gonna ditch the royal purple tomorrow and run a heavier oil, it is a higher mileage ls1 so there's a possibility that the rings are allowing it to be burned . On a side note, cruisin 60mph tonight and doesn't my serpentine belt let go 😡😡😡😡 well like usual it took tons of stuff with it ... most importantly my ntk wideband for my Holley hp efi . Hopefully have it back together with thicker oil tomorrow ðŸ‘ðŸ»ðŸ‘ðŸ»
Old 11-03-2016, 09:05 AM
  #15  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (9)
 
The BallSS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Washington
Posts: 2,681
Received 498 Likes on 385 Posts

Default

Don't bother with that high dollar oil.
I ran both Amsoil and VR1 and neither didn't hold up to the heat nearly as well as good ole Delo 15-40.
Depending on where you live you can usually find Delo or Rotella at Costco or some place similar.
I've been running the Delo and I really happy with how it holds up and I don't have any oil consumption.
Run an extra quart as well and let it get up to temp before you really hammer on it and you'll be money.
Old 11-03-2016, 09:25 AM
  #16  
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
 
Dennis5374's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 397
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by The ******
Don't bother with that high dollar oil.
I ran both Amsoil and VR1 and neither didn't hold up to the heat nearly as well as good ole Delo 15-40.
Depending on where you live you can usually find Delo or Rotella at Costco or some place similar.
I've been running the Delo and I really happy with how it holds up and I don't have any oil consumption.
Run an extra quart as well and let it get up to temp before you really hammer on it and you'll be money.
I grabbed rotella 15w40, is there a difference between the diesel oil and gas oil? I don't wanna throw this Deisel oil in if it's not the same stuff most guys are using . There's very little info on exactly what type it is . Just wanna make sure I've got the right stuff lol
Old 11-03-2016, 06:43 PM
  #17  
TECH Enthusiast
 
SteenH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Moose Jaw SK, Canada
Posts: 513
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Originally Posted by Dennis5374
I grabbed rotella 15w40, is there a difference between the diesel oil and gas oil? I don't wanna throw this Deisel oil in if it's not the same stuff most guys are using . There's very little info on exactly what type it is . Just wanna make sure I've got the right stuff lol
I'm not the oil master but I've ran the diesel 15w40 in my duramax, turbo camaro, 400k Pontiac bonneville, my little geo metros
It's pretty cheap compared to others up here works well for me
Old 11-03-2016, 10:57 PM
  #18  
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
 
Dennis5374's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 397
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

So here's the low down , I know my crank case pressure is being relieved now, and I'm running the 15w40. I've narrowed my issues down to 1 of 2 problems .
A- I've got some worn cylinders and oil is blowing clean past them , which you would think would be more prevalent under boost and heavy acceleration, or:
B- the more likely culprit, I need an oil restrictor on my feed line . I'm seeing 37 psi at hot idle , and upwards of 70 psi under wot!! I'm running a -10 an return line with a shur flo scavenge pump, and a -4an feed line coming into my turbonetics hurricane Benita 7868. My question is , what restrictor sizes should I try? I still believe I'm getting fresh oil in the exhaust, as I took a 45 minute ride tonight cruising 55-60 mph in 3rd gear at 3000 rpms +!! I was trying to burn the excess oil out of the exhaust, which was definitely working as I could smell it for the entire ride . Where should I order from? I need these over nighted so I can install Saturday
Old 11-04-2016, 10:43 AM
  #19  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (9)
 
The BallSS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Washington
Posts: 2,681
Received 498 Likes on 385 Posts

Default

Turbonetics recommends not using a restrictor with their Benita turbo, however I've talked to a few guys who were having the same problem you are with oil in the down pipe and installed a restrictor and it fixed it and didn't affect the turbo's life span.
I'd start with a .060 size restrictor, ball bearing turbos typically don't require as much oil as a journal bearing so you should be okay but start large and work your way down.
They're on eBay for like $14.00 or something.
Old 11-04-2016, 01:35 PM
  #20  
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
 
Dennis5374's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 397
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by The ******
Turbonetics recommends not using a restrictor with their Benita turbo, however I've talked to a few guys who were having the same problem you are with oil in the down pipe and installed a restrictor and it fixed it and didn't affect the turbo's life span.
I'd start with a .060 size restrictor, ball bearing turbos typically don't require as much oil as a journal bearing so you should be okay but start large and work your way down.
They're on eBay for like $14.00 or something.
Yeah I'm gonna make my own today. The one thing that troubles me , is that it never smokes when it's cold. It actually has to run at 195* for 5-10 minutes before it'll ever start smoking . Makes me think that maybe I still have excess crank case pressure , and it takes awhile to build up , if the feed line was getting too much oil, wouldn't it show at all times ?


Quick Reply: Turbo ls1 tailpipe smoke between shifts.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:00 PM.